[SOLVED] Wobbly Spur (201/501/511/DB01)

djmcnz · #1 22-04-2013

Edit: this issue apparently affects the 201 as well as the 501 and 511 using the DB01 double slipper with the 501X layshaft and possibly also the DB01 with the double slipper.

This solved my problem after about 8 attempts in two seperate sessions...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Origineelreclamebord

If it is the same 'problem' as the TRF201, it is that the spur wasn't held held perfectly flat when tightened (then the plates are usually flat on there but the spur is not).

Just loosen it a bit until you can straighten it out by pushing the spur into a position where it doesn't wobble anymore. When this is the case, put even pressure on the spur plates and retighten it (looking once or twice in the process if it's staying straight - if not, try to straighten it with the setting you tightened it too and continue - if not possible, loosen it a bit and try again).

Thanks dude!

--- original message ---

Have any of you had a wobbly spur? Actually my entire clutch assembly seems to visibly wobble left and right.

511 with upgrade kit and DB01 double slipper using the correct 501X shaft and a JConcepts machined 87t spur.

When assembled it looks and feels fine and I can detect no obvious signs of it not being true. The bearings seem fine.

When installed, and it seats in the aluminium bulkheads just fine, it doesn't spin true and the spur visibly wobbles, up to about 1mm off-centre either side (so 2mm total - a lot). Upon really close inspection it seems the centre pulleys are slightly "off balance" as well.

It's the same effect you would get if the assembly was unbalanced. However I'm spinning it slowly with my hand so balance is unlikely to be the cause.

I would have thought:

Bad spur
Bent shaft
Busted bearing
Bent bulkhead
Tweaked chassis

Probably in that order but have checked them all the best I can with my eye and a flat surface to no avail.

Any suggestions? I'm at a loss really.

Origineelreclamebord · #2 22-04-2013

If it is the same 'problem' as the TRF201, it is that the spur wasn't held held perfectly flat when tightened (then the plates are usually flat on there but the spur is not).

Just loosen it a bit until you can straighten it out by pushing the spur into a position where it doesn't wobble anymore. When this is the case, put even pressure on the spur plates and retighten it (looking once or twice in the process if it's staying straight - if not, try to straighten it with the setting you tightened it too and continue - if not possible, loosen it a bit and try again).

Sounds ridiculous? I have two of these gearboxes and they show the same behaviour - both with Tamiya and AE spur gears

djmcnz · #3 22-04-2013

Interesting... not sure how that works mechanically but I'll check it a little latter and report back, thanks!

djmcnz · #4 22-04-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Origineelreclamebord

If it is the same 'problem' as the TRF201, it is that the spur wasn't held held perfectly flat when tightened (then the plates are usually flat on there but the spur is not).

Well good sir it seems you're correct. Same 'problem' with the double slipper (and the 501X shaft at least).

It's quite shocking really, I got most of the deviation out after about 5 unsuccessful attempts and it's still not perfect.

Maybe Tamiya's next tool will be a blue 90 deg clutch vice?

Nevertheless, thank you for saving me a lot of time and frustration!

Edit: got it straight!

Updated first post.

94eg! · #5 19-05-2013

Hey...

Anyone notice the DN01 slipper set uses a pair of flange tubes to center both ends of the spring? Does that sound like it would help with this issue? Only downside would be added rotational mass.

Also, I noticed the white slipper pads. Interesting.

54260

djmcnz · #6 20-05-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94eg!

Hey...

Anyone notice the DN01 slipper set uses a pair of flange tubes to center both ends of the spring? Does that sound like it would help with this issue? Only downside would be added rotational mass.

Also, I noticed the white slipper pads. Interesting.

54260

If the flanges are the right size then it should work. All they really need to do it make the hole in the plates the correct size.

But in your pic the plates are also a totally different design and yes, with the combination of those changes it seems to me the problem would be fixed for good.