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Old 04-10-2011
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Default How to upgrade a DB01 for brushless/lipo/racing

This subject seems to pop up every couple of months or so. Hopefully this can be made a ‘sticky’ to help DB01 owners in the future.

I am writing this mainly from the point of view of a standard DB01, but much of it will apply to the DB01R too.

Numbers in brackets are Tamiya parts numbers. You don’t have to get Tamiya parts in all cases, but they are usually better quality.

One bit of advice: If you haven’t already got a DB01 it’s much cheaper in the long-run to get the DB01R, as it has a lot of these upgrades on it already.

1: Slipper Clutch (54018)

First thing you need to get when going brushless is a slipper clutch. I don’t know the difference between the normal and the double slipper, hopefully someone can reply who knows more. Without one, the diffs (especially the rear) act as a slipper and create heat through friction, which will melt the diff pulley.

2: Aluminium suspension mounts (54037)(54038) 2x(54039) and metal suspension balls. (53709) or (50994)

At the speeds you’ll be doing with a brushless system, you’ll be popping the suspension out everytime you hit something hard or cartwheel. The alloy suspension mounts (either Tamiya ones, or a 3rd party set at half the price) and a set of fluorine coated suspension balls should stop this happening.

3: 501 Outdrives (51286) and ceramic diff balls. (42142)

As mentioned above, the diffs (especially the rear) are a weak point. If they get too hot they tend to melt the pulley. One reason for this is the plastic bits that hold the diff plates. They should be replaced with the 501 outdrives (or if on a budget, the 3racing ones are OK). These are all metal, which allows the heat to escape better.

Also 3mm ceramic diff balls will help the situation as they create less heat.

4: Ta05 Carbon battery strap. (53884)

With a standard lipo being a bit taller than an old-style stick-pack, you’ll have to put some spacers in the battery posts to fit one in. Problem here is that you won’t be able to screw the posts in very far, and they can easily pop out, often damaging the chassis. The ta05 carbon battery strap is very thin, which means you’ll be able to screw the battery posts in more. Either that, or go to town with a dremel on the battery tray to get rid of the mouldings there.

5: 3-Racing Alloy servo mounts

Even with the servo-saver on, I found I was breaking the luggs off my servo whenever I had a really bad crash. Replacing them with alloy ones that have a bit rubber to help absorb the impact seems to have solved this.

6: Hard hex balls (53969)

The next weak-point I found was the balls which the turnbuckles attach to on the front hub. Upgrading to the hard hex balls will help stop this problem.

7: Titanium/ hex-head screw set (54024)

Any screws that need removing regularly will benefit from being upgraded to hex-heads. I just bought a load from a screw specialist (after checking the instructions for what I needed) but you can get a set designed to replace them. I just replaced the ones I took off the car every time I took it apart.

8: TRF Shocks (54028) or (42198)

If you’re going racing, you really should upgrade to the TRF shocks (as used on all the TRF buggys). There are two sets to choose from now, the standard set, and the HL set.

9: Stuff I haven’t done yet!!
(Hopefully someone can reply with more info on these)


Atomic Carbon Shock Towers – Look v. nice and apparently help when using TRF shocks.

CVD’s - (My next upgrade.) Not really sure on the difference between the WO ones and the normal ones. Hopefully someone can reply with more info.

Front Oneway – Not quite sure about this one. Perhaps Jimmy or someone can enlighten me.

Stabiliser Set – Again, not sure about this.

Another useful mod

Getting to the diffs in a hurry can be a pain in the neck. As standard you have to remove 14 screws to get into the front diff, or 16 to get into the rear diff!!!

I get round this by a: not putting all the screws in leaving the ones at the end off and b: by cutting the diff covers a bit to get rid of the bit of plastic that stops you being able to remove the diff covers before removing the spur cover.

On my car, I can get to the front diff removing only 4 screws, and the rear after only 6.

Hope this all helps. If you have good stuff to add, feel free.

If I have got anything wrong, PM me and I'll edit rather than making the thread a mess of contradicting replies.
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  #2  
Old 04-10-2011
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Atomic carbon rear towers have the holes at the correct level so that when running TRF (or AE Shocks) you don't have either too much droop or have to limit the shocks.
Well worth getting IMO
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Old 11-12-2011
DB01RS DB01RS is offline
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Default Steering hop ups

I am in the process of upgrading my Durga at the mo. I reccomend the high traction chassis and High traction arms too. The chassis only has the motor heat sink hole and not the slots under battery cut out. Much better for avoiding filling my car with debris. Also the tamiya racing steering hop up is ballraced and along with a shim on each castor block has eliminated the movement in the whole rack.
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Old 22-08-2012
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id go for the center one way instead of the front one way diff
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Old 01-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DB01RS View Post
I am in the process of upgrading my Durga at the mo. I reccomend the high traction chassis and High traction arms too. The chassis only has the motor heat sink hole and not the slots under battery cut out. Much better for avoiding filling my car with debris. Also the tamiya racing steering hop up is ballraced and along with a shim on each castor block has eliminated the movement in the whole rack.
iv been runing a db01r for a while now and found the high traction arms too soft they brake very easily,the chasis is a good upgrade but 501x arms are the best way forward
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