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  #21  
Old 13-05-2008
Big E Big E is offline
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Originally Posted by bigred5765 View Post
does the DDP rear pulley help stop belt skip Ellis, and are they much better than the std ones.?? haven't tried them yet, we found that with the wider belt and the double pulley it stopped 90% of the belt skip under hard brakes.never had any probs under acceleration,we did try the roller but left it of when we ran the double pulley, the belt tensioner Dan posted is a god send ,
Yeah they are better, they also run a little straighter and just last a lot longer.
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  #22  
Old 13-05-2008
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Quote:
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I run a DDP rear pulley, xx4 drive gear and stock front pulley but I would advise the bearing roller on the drive pulley, that is the only thing you need to stop the belt skipping.

E.
If you then add the dual idler conversion, is that "too much"? Seems like the belt is VERY close to touching itself...

Btw. how about making an "E Speed" kit for that roller? I think people would appreaciate it! (Something that's "bolt on". Maybe with a template/guide as to where to mount it?)
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  #23  
Old 13-05-2008
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What pulley is it that the belt skips on mostly, surely a bearing that nearly touches the belt whilst the belt is on the pulley would stop the belt from lifting and skipping. Im not sure how easy to do this is though, but it will add zero drag and stop belt skip
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  #24  
Old 13-05-2008
Cockerill Cockerill is offline
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That's exactly what is done Lee. To quote Dan's 'god-like article':

'Belt hold down roller. This too is a really easy mod that’s talked about lots on the forum and I was amazed at how much difference it has made. Basically for the belt to skip on the drive pulley the belt must physically ride up and the teeth become disengaged. By placing a roller bearing in front of the belt, if the belt tries to ride up, the bearing stops it and so the teeth can’t disengage and skip. You set it so that under normal use the bearing isn’t touching the belt causing drag, only when it would skip. I simply made mine by drilling a hole in the chassis ahead of the pulley and mounting a motor bearing on a bolt going into the belt tunnel. I’ve done this mod to a customer’s car in all of about 5 minutes!'

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/6161/img3056ui0.jpg
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  #25  
Old 13-05-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big E View Post
Yeah they are better, they also run a little straighter and just last a lot longer.
cheers Ellis will have to give them a try, we had the bearing roller pulley on, i removed it when we fitted the dual pulleys, to see it was or wasn't still needed,will refit and try the rear DDP pulleys,lee it seems to be the drive pulley on the layshaft that skips, but i can make the rear belt skip buy hand,hence why i asked the question on the DDP pulleys.
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  #26  
Old 13-05-2008
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Hi again all,

What's the space for electricals like, ideally I'd be running futaba 2.4 radio. Also does it take normal servo's or just low profiles?
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  #27  
Old 13-05-2008
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plenty of romm for std sized everything on the car, theres some pics on 4wdrc.com heres the link clicky check out the gtb installed in x5 theres more than one link
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  #28  
Old 13-05-2008
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The car is built for standard servo's; to get any real advantage with a low-profile one you'd have to dremel down the mounts for the servo to lower it down, otherwise you'd just create space underneath the servo.
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  #29  
Old 13-05-2008
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when i run the x5 i had a low profile servo in and i run spectrum recivers the really small 1 which fitted under the servo
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  #30  
Old 13-05-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by footey View Post
when i run the x5 i had a low profile servo in and i run spectrum recivers the really small 1 which fitted under the servo
Which was wired in with god like precision by somebody amazing I assume?
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  #31  
Old 13-05-2008
footey footey is offline
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thats right dan and u must admit it was really neat and tidy
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  #32  
Old 13-05-2008
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Who did it for you then Shane?
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  #33  
Old 13-05-2008
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It was indeed. I think though if I had a low profile servo I'd cut the mounts and do it low so the steering turnbuckle then mounted off the top of the servo horn and the CoG of the car was lower. I'd prefer to mount the receiver at the back for weight dist, especially when Lipo becomes the norm and we run a stick pack down the RHS of the car!
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  #34  
Old 13-05-2008
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Quote:
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Who did it for you then Shane?
Cough, cough
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  #35  
Old 14-05-2008
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Here's a quick pic of how I did the belt roller. The roller's shaft is actually a XX4 CVD front axle, with the round part cut off. The axle is the perfect diameter for a drive bearing, of course, and the little lip holds it on. The two "hat" spacers are just rear axle spacers (That go between the bearings and the drive pin). I just drilled the hole in the chassis by eye and adjusted it (file in or out as needed) as needed. The large "hat" spacers cover up the slightly-oblong hole, and clamp the whole thing tight on the chassis with a regular wheel nut on the end. Probably the hardest thing about doing this is you have to shave down one of the flanges on the drive pulley - just take your time with this and it'll come out fine.

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  #36  
Old 14-05-2008
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With things like the B2 brace, where would be stocking them?

Other than the bearing to stop the belt skipping, how much does it require "DIY" as a car for the extra's, as opposed to stuff that just bolts on?

I am a lazy Fekker, hence the question!!
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  #37  
Old 14-05-2008
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whats the difference between a standard X5 and the squared?
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  #38  
Old 14-05-2008
Darren Boyle Darren Boyle is offline
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Even Chazz and Paul would admit that the X5 is more of a "fiddlers" car than the X6 is, by that I mean you do have to cut, file and dremel a few parts to convert and several mods are pasrt that you adapt or play with to fit, but none of the mods are too stressful and all are easy to implement and the advantages of each are easy to see and understand when you apply them. The main things you probably refer to will be the actual build of the car which will need the use of a dremel or file or similiar (see Jimmys original X5 build review), fitting the front "B2/XXX" front brace, fitting the "Modified Wishbone Kingpins" and adding the belt bearing roller to prevent skip, but that is about all that requires "work" in order to fit. B2 braces BTW are in stock at just £1.55


Differences between the old X5 and the Squared are as follows;

New body with larger space for fitting brushless speedos etc and more cooling holes
Chassis updated/improved/strengthened in 15 places plus a new material. Several minor updates too
New Belt idler bar
"Pro Proto" white lower chassis cover, top "gear cover" and rear diff cover
New mutlicolour X5 Squared logo decals

Thats it........

You can upgrade an older X5 to the latest "squared" with the following upgrade kit - K014 "Higher Power Upgrade" - which includes all of the parts. We currently have these in priced at £49.95 (parts are just over £62 bought seperately)
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  #39  
Old 14-05-2008
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Do you have stock in on the XX4 conversion kit?
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  #40  
Old 15-05-2008
Darren Boyle Darren Boyle is offline
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We do indeed..... priced ar £129.95
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AVID R/C - VAMPIRE RACING - EXOTEK RACING - LUNSFORD RACING - X-FACTORY - TUNING HAUS - WTF
AME - RAGE R/C - REVOLUTION DESIGN RACING PRODUCTS - McKUNE DESIGN - TEAM AZARASHI
X-PARTZ - PHAT BODIES - RACERS EDGE - RM2 - DIRT RACING PRODUCTS - DMS INSERTZ
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