My X5 lipo mounting (and couple sneaky X6 ones)

[super__dan]

Yeah I tried mine with some light saddles, I completely agree with Lee, I had to add an old 4200 cell behind the saddle on the servo for balance and the rear still wasn't as I would have liked.

It's do-able but I prefer the stick option.

[ScottyP]

Thx guys. Sounds like stick is the go.

Now just have to find time to build the bloody car!

[super__dan]

Just updating this thread

I've changed over to Vampire Racing Lipo's from the SMC packs, I've not had the chance to run them yet but they look great

All the packs I've got were according to my voltmeter perfectly balanced when I got them and so didn't take long to balance charge first time. Being 5200mah 30C, it now means all the team are running the 'big' lipos of their sponsor which all weigh roughly the same, which means setups from the team will be consistent.

Running them next weekend at the Batley Supercup, can't wait!

Just to note, on the X5 the Vampire racing lipo was a fraction longer than the SMC ones I had, so I've ended up having to shave the servo mount down a bit with the dremel. But it all fits in (as you can see )

[super__dan]

Did some weighing up tonight and thought I'd share

X6

Total weight 1760g inc weight added to balance up the front. As I ran it last week, this was with body wig etc RTR and with Mini Pin tyres. This is deliberately heavy as so far we've found we prefer it this way.

Front - 36%, 638g
Rear - 64%, 1123g

Right - 50.7%, 895g
Lerft - 49.3%, 870g

X5

Total weight 1650g with no weight added at all

Front - 43%, 712g
Rear - 57%, 938g

Right - 50%, 829g
Lerft - 50%, 828g

So this is pretty conclusive that stick Lipo's are the way to go for balance I think. It's really pretty light at 1650 on mini pins (will be closer to limit with mini spikes on), so I might add some weight to the front if as and when I think it needs it..

** Please note I realise some of those figures don't quite add up to the right totals but they way I've done it isn't quite as precise as I'd like but it's pretty close.

[super__dan]

Wraggy, just to point out if you get some lead plate, you can see (kind of see bits off) I've got a square peice of the lead under the speedo and then a peice that totally fits in the servo bay.

The bit in the servo bay is only held in by the servo mounts (longer screws needed) so VERY easy to remove or change for a smaller peice. and is covered in black gaffa tape purely to make it look nicer. The peice under the speedo is not because my servo tape does not like to stick to the tape so it's stuck straight to the lead.

Not sure how thick the lead is but it's normal roofing lead I think, cut up with scissors.

[jono83]

the roofing lead i use is jus under 2mm thick

[Garry Driffill]

Heres my take on fitting LiPo to the X-5, Ive seen how the Team guys are running theirs and looks cool. However i took it on slightly different..



Bolting down 2 of the origional cell posts that have been risen up using 2 of the 4mm high J-Concepts gearbox to top deck spacers under them at the back of the chasis and one just next to the servo for extra support as i didnt fancy drilling into the lip of the chasiss and making a complete hash of it



I had to take out the secondry Losi servo mount and replace it as seen in the picture which is a 'T' peice from the X-6 kit that holds the wall of the motor plate to the chais, Ideally i want to use an alloy on or an alloy servo mount from a B4, 501X or Yokomo BX. The strap im using is the Losi xxx4 one flipped over with the cell 'Ridges' taken off and finally ive filled in the cell slots in the chasis with resin mixing it with 'Dremal dust' from an old Hyper 7 hub to darken the mix up so it aint clear.

All in all it seems very steady and a normal stick pack sits in it sweet! - Next job, Schumacher CAT SX strap to make it look a tad neater..

[Body Paint]

I'm impressed.... I like that a lot.

The filled in chassis is looking good aswell

[Garry Driffill]

Thanks Craig, I used parcel tape on the inderside of the chasis and its come up dead smooth.



I did my dads with the resin too but left out the ground up dust out of it and its dried the same only clear so there isnt any disadvantage of mixing with the dust over not using it. It seems to work both the same if anyone was wondering of doing somthing of the same nature

Next thing i want to do is fill in the irrelevnt countersinks..



- Roll on Batley next week, Hoping and praying for dry weather!

[Body Paint]

Sweat, good job!

When you do the countersinks do fill them up from the bottom and put the tape on the inside of the chassis, it's really hard to get the resin into the holes the other way around

[Garry Driffill]

LOL, Cool ok Craig

Have you any pics of youres done up mate?

[Body Paint]

Mine are in bits again LOL.... more tweaking

[Garry Driffill]

ace!, Im wondering if i should or shouldnt go with the CR end, Also flip over the rear pivot blocks too, is it really worth doing?

[Body Paint]

Flipping the pivot blocks is well worth doing for outdoor tracks, CR rear end is one of the things my car is stripped down ready to do

[Garry Driffill]

Just looking over the car and i 'Think' my pivot blocks could have aldeady have been done by Pedros from when i bought the car from him ..

[super__dan]

Gary that looks great, you can route the servo wire up the tranny tunnel and tape it to the side, that would then be the ultimate!

I've done my new chassis for this year, I've just used std epoxy so it's 'clear', I've done all the spare countersunk holes too, looks really good. I've managed to get the lipo to fit right up to the tranny wall which I hadn't done on the old (test mule) chassis. Rest of car won't be built up for at least a couple of weeks now though.

[bigred5765]

Dan what is the weight of the all up car, and i know its a bit TC, but what are the weights on the wheels FR FL RR RL etc

[Garry Driffill]

Cheers Dan,

I did wonder about sending the servo lead inside the belt tunnle down to the back of the car actaully, I just may do that now. Was a little cautious to be honest of the belt catching it at any point but if its more or less 'Nailed' down it shouldnt be an issue AND effectivly make it ever neater.

Ive just fitted the Turnbuckle belt tensioner mod and the rear carbon link stregnthener for the shocktower. Then all i need to do is get the CR parts for the back end and im, well i beleive i'll be running somthing 'Like' you lads will be

Dan, The white 'Upgrade Parts' what are they actually for?

I notice youre not running them? or are youres dyed black?

[super__dan]

There is no real difference in the white parts, Chazz thinks they look cool and you can dye them. I'd chose to dye them black but have some of the old parts so use those.

I can't see the pics now as in work but I do remember thinking the one thing you need to get as a priority is the carbon fibre front shock tower brace (IMHO) as it strengthens it up so much and you'll need far less towers (I'd still have a couple of spares in the box).

I don't run the tensioner mod anymore, mainly cos it fouls the lipo, but since I've been on the all new pulleys (not that new anymore) I have such little problems with the belts and the window of setting has opened up some that I'm not that bothered.

FYI I'm not currently running the E Speed steering but will have to see when I get some proper outdoor running back in.

[Body Paint]

Originally Posted by Garry Driffill

Cheers Dan,

I did wonder about sending the servo lead inside the belt tunnle down to the back of the car actaully, I just may do that now. Was a little cautious to be honest of the belt catching it at any point but if its more or less 'Nailed' down it shouldnt be an issue AND effectivly make it ever neater.
?

I was planning on making a brass weight that is screwed into the tunnel, if you stick lead into the tunnel you have no way of knowing if it is coming loose as you can't see it without removing the cover.