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  #21  
Old 13-10-2008
AmiSMB AmiSMB is offline
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At Newbury the broken out drive count was two rear and one front, The two rears broke on the adjustment screw side which is classed as the female output drive.
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  #22  
Old 13-10-2008
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I saw a broken part yesterday, is this a design flaw or is it a bad batch to come out of the factory? Any idea if the bad parts would be replaced if so? Very tempted by the car but would like to know first if this is fixable?
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  #23  
Old 13-10-2008
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Tris is on the case of some outdrive savers

I will keep you all updated!
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  #24  
Old 13-10-2008
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I have broken 2 all year, so can safely say this is not a design fault. Both of the 2 i did were off the back of large impacts to that particular side of the car, so dont worry Griff
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  #25  
Old 13-10-2008
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A question for Simon and all the Team:

Did you ever try on shock shaft, to replace the short ball sockets by long ones ?

I mean, this way, it prevents dogbones to hurt diff outdrives at full compression and it allows more droop setup

Just my 2 cents
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  #26  
Old 15-10-2008
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RPM do these. 70311 Up Travel Limiter Clips For All 1/8" Diameter Shock Shafts



Will they fit and has anybody tried them for other cars etc. May be better than the o rings compressing and snapping the out drive.
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  #27  
Old 15-10-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oliv996 View Post
A question for Simon and all the Team:

Did you ever try on shock shaft, to replace the short ball sockets by long ones ?

I mean, this way, it prevents dogbones to hurt diff outdrives at full compression and it allows more droop setup

Just my 2 cents
I did this, it was awful
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  #28  
Old 15-10-2008
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Hey guys

I saw the new cat @ york a few weeks ago Ben Jemison was driving it and for the couple of lap he managed between breaking diff outdrives it looked awsome!

I don't think he managed to finish a run due to the poor quality of the diff componants, he seemed a little P**sed off to be honest

I'm sure that schumacher will sort out the problem and reissue everyone with new updated parts

Buggymaster
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  #29  
Old 15-10-2008
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I think ben had made a mistake with the build though, i think his caster blocks were on the wrong way.

I think its best to let schumacher make an announcement on if there is an issue or not, instead of assuming what will happen. I personally dont think that is fair as people will be calling schumacher after reading your post and asking when their replacement parts are coming in.
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  #30  
Old 15-10-2008
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yeah true alot of people havent had a issue with there outdrives anyway theres plenty of things to take into account before making assumtions on the build quality.
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  #31  
Old 15-10-2008
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I'll try and be thorough with this. The SX is an absolutely awesome machine so please do not let such a minor hicup tarnish your opinions of it.

The outdrives are strong for the purpose, when they are weak is if something catch's - such as the bone into the slot, or a stone caught in there. So they don't have that added strength to cope with this additional strain.

So do take care with setups. What can cause the additional strain is:

- Too much camber change, raise internal ballstud/use a longer turnbuckle position

- Too much up travel, use external shock limiting of around 2-3mm

- Too much driveshaft plunge, go to diff high position.

If you do break an outdrive, feel free to post on here but I do strongly recommend that you contact Schumacher, take photos, write out a setup sheet. This will help Schumacher in their findings, it is being looked at.

Personally, I have broken 1 on the rear using the manual setup. So to prevent any further I have done the following things: (which also results in a far better setup)

Trimmed the top off the front castor blocks, lowering the outer ballstud.
Remove all spacing from front inside ballstud, raising the inner ballstud.
(Together gives far less camber change, and more progressive steering)

Gone to shortest inboard rear CF bracket, with 4mm ballstud.
Outer hole on hub, with 60mm turnbuckle (longest posible link)
(This gives linear camber change throughout suspension travel).

Limited all four shocks externally by 3mm

Gone to rear diff to high position, set the belt 1 setting looser than manual.
(This will reduce driveshaft plunge, increases traction)


If anybody wants to PM me or any other Schumacher team driver, please do, I'll always put 100% into helping anybody.

Chris
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  #32  
Old 15-10-2008
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Those RPM limiters are very convenient parts because of they could be clipped on the shock shaft without disassembly. But unfortunately most of the time, even the thiner one are too thick

I would suggest a far cheaper idea: home made "C-washer":


Based on 1mm thick Nylon washer, transformed the "O" into "C" with just a cutting pliers. Easy to clip and it allows very fine tuning
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  #33  
Old 15-10-2008
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  #34  
Old 15-10-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrislong View Post

Personally, I have broken 1 on the rear using the manual setup.

Chris
I never started with the manual steup and started very far from it and have run the car 15+ times around Southport with only scratches to show for it, and on one set of the new yellows which will do another week.

higher inboard ballstuds and lowered castor block on the front, and longer camber link at the rear, less anti squat, low diffs, loose belts drilled rear pistons with 30wt, 35wt front kit pistons, no limiters at all, middle at the top and inside at the bottom on shock positions.
plus it`s had lots of air over both the doubles and table top at speed.
5.5L on a 18t to kit spur/ratios,

I agree with Chris the quality of the car is excellent and strong.

Plus stop knocking the wing mounts they are far better the most other manufactors.
Si.
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  #35  
Old 15-10-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrislong View Post
Limited all four shocks externally by 3mm

Gone to rear diff to high position, set the belt 1 setting looser than manual.
(This will reduce driveshaft plunge, increases traction)
I agree with you Chris

I was thinking about shiming out the pivot blocks (let's say 1mm on each side) to push a little the limit of driveshaft hitting the outdrive... Of course it depends on adding 2mm on the track width makes the car still complies the rules
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  #36  
Old 15-10-2008
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Great advice Chris.

Still doesn't change the fact the outdrives are too hard IMO.

The fractures are all brittle fractures. I would rather have a more ductile failure on a component like this. A little more ductility and flex would allow just enough play to prevent flexes.

I am not talking about a low yield high UTS material, I don't want to bend a handful. I would just prefer a slightly lower modulus.
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  #37  
Old 15-10-2008
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Quote:
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Still doesn't change the fact the outdrives are too hard IMO.
Agreed. But for now they don't have the flex/ability to take any strain, they just *ping* broken, so until it is resolved we have to just think about avoiding the cause to keep this awesome machine on the track.
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  #38  
Old 15-10-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oliv996 View Post

I was thinking about shiming out the pivot blocks (let's say 1mm on each side) to push a little the limit of driveshaft hitting the outdrive... Of course it depends on adding 2mm on the track width makes the car still complies the rules
Ah yes, good point. This also helps by reducing the depth of the driveshaft plunge

I know Matt White & I think Barnyard too, both run a wider car. Currently mine is as per manual, but there is room for additional width. I am going to compare mine to the B4 for width and then add shims to suit. This puts a little extra strain on the 2.5mm screws, so do check them for bends.
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  #39  
Old 15-10-2008
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I run as std 2mm between the front blocks and have gone out as far as 3. For rear i am currently running 4.5/2. This does obviously pull the drive shaft away from the out drive. This was not the reason for me making it wider - it was a handling preference.
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  #40  
Old 16-10-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattW View Post
I run as std 2mm between the front blocks and have gone out as far as 3. For rear i am currently running 4.5/2. This does obviously pull the drive shaft away from the out drive. This was not the reason for me making it wider - it was a handling preference.
Thank you Matt
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