No power

absolute alignment · #1 02-03-2014

I ran my 22-4 for first time today. I had NO power. Belts seem to me to be fine, I swapped motors to check if it's that, adjusted slipper, changed pinion but not helped at all, great through the corners but screwed on the straights. Any ideas?

tyreman · #2 02-03-2014

Have you checked your speedo settings?

Balders · #3 02-03-2014

the gearing the manual states is a little out for our tracks, from memory i geared mine down a tooth or 2 from what it says and it was loads better.

Timee80 · #4 02-03-2014

Is your sensor lead broken? Boost and turbo will not work if the esc can't adjust the timing.

absolute alignment · #5 02-03-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timee80

Is your sensor lead broken? Boost and turbo will not work if the esc can't adjust the timing.

Speedo and sensor lead all okay. Came out of my Vega and checked back to see its not causing issue. I tried going up 2 pinion teeth to get more top end but. Same sluggish result.

tyreman · #6 02-03-2014

We need to know a bit more to help out, like speedo & motor, make, gearing and speedo settings.

absolute alignment · #7 02-03-2014

Speed passion 5.5t then 6.5t motors to check it wasn't the motor causing issues. Orion R10 esc with punch to full or lower making no difference and timing tried at different levels. 21t pinion, then 25 (!), 17 finally 19 but all the same result. Is it possible that it is the battery pack, as it's the only thing I didn't swap, it's a 5200 90c good make saddle pack that charges fine.

I'm more looking for some reason in the build as the cause causing too much friction tbh.

GrahamH7060 · #8 02-03-2014

This might be an obvious point but have you tried backing off the front wheel nuts a half turn ? When I initially built mine I wound them up a bit too tight as there's not much thread to work with and the wheel hubs were binding on the trailing arms , loosened slightly and all was free

discostu · #9 02-03-2014

its more than likley just drag from the TLR Drive train i felt it when i swapped from my 44.2 to the 22-4 the motor would get hoter and it would pull out the bends as much

all the esc was exactly the same as i dropped them straight in the 22-4

i changed the belt settings on the car and and dropped pinions and played with esc to get a better balance

stu

super__dan · #10 04-03-2014

I'm interested to read people gearing down as I'm 2 teeth over manual, I presume as we run smaller diameter tyres on mini spikes.

Regarding the lack of power, when I first ran mine I was airing on the side of caution with the slipper but even when it was slipping I couldn't hear it on track. The slipper setting 'window' is quite small and is only about 1/2 turn off fully tight. Unless you've wound it up tight and tested it from there iI'd give that a go.

absolute alignment · #11 04-03-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by super__dan

I'm interested to read people gearing down as I'm 2 teeth over manual, I presume as we run smaller diameter tyres on mini spikes.

Regarding the lack of power, when I first ran mine I was airing on the side of caution with the slipper but even when it was slipping I couldn't hear it on track. The slipper setting 'window' is quite small and is only about 1/2 turn off fully tight. Unless you've wound it up tight and tested it from there iI'd give that a go.

Hi Dan, it's fully tight, I tried a larger pinion, smaller pinion, suggested pinion, and all the same. I just be missing something!

absolute alignment · #12 09-03-2014

Tightened slipper and uped pinion 1 tooth and power was better but still slow out of corners

The Dude · #13 10-03-2014

Did you check your diffs ? If you change everything and tightend the slipper with loosen diff, there is no power indeed.

absolute alignment · #14 10-03-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Dude

Did you check your diffs ? If you change everything and tightend the slipper with loosen diff, there is no power indeed.

Have not tried diff yet. Will do this week's race.