Lazer zxr

[kek23k]

Fingers crossed, the Teamline front mount is the only thing I'm missing in my nostalgic whim to rebuild my original car lol.

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by Ema

If you can't get sorted let me know; I still got the Teamline tower somewhere .

Bye
Ema

Mate, everything in triplicate for you

[kek23k]

I suppose I better start building this beast lol

[HKS_TRD]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Kyosho US website.

Ive no pics but if you have an original measure it, both the big section and small, both width and thickness and get the two different sizes and a longer screw plus nut and it works. I did this on my second gearbox.


Shock cap O ring number as6469 or as7484

I have been looking at M2 washers and all the ones I findare 5mm OD whereas the la-112 washers are 6mm on the wider section, will 5mm still work to hold the diff outdrive bearings?

[type49rs]

Originally Posted by kek23k

I suppose I better start building this beast lol

I have sent the tower to Stephen.... will keep you informed of any updates

[kek23k]

Originally Posted by type49rs

I have sent the tower to Stephen.... will keep you informed of any updates

Fantastic, thank you muchly

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

I have been looking at M2 washers and all the ones I findare 5mm OD whereas the la-112 washers are 6mm on the wider section, will 5mm still work to hold the diff outdrive bearings?

Dan, been really busy so apologies for the delay. Are the screws M2? If not would advise getting the identical size washers needed, top & bottom and roughly the same size as the screw.

[HKS_TRD]

Hi James
The screws are M2
The only way to get a 2.6 mm OD washer is if you go to an M2.5 washer but the central hole is larger so in theory washer could cover less of the bearing if off centre
Did you just switch to M2.5 screws instead and enlarge the holes on the gearbox to suit?

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

Hi James
The screws are M2
The only way to get a 2.6 mm OD washer is if you go to an M2.5 washer but the central hole is larger so in theory washer could cover less of the bearing if off centre
Did you just switch to M2.5 screws instead and enlarge the holes on the gearbox to suit?

I cant remember exactly what i used but know the screw was slightly longer but identical size to original. Mind you i do remember just reversing this LA112 washer on the outside of my gearbox on one of my protos so may be another way for you to do it as that way all you need to do is make sure everything on the layshaft is packed in without binding and should be an easy escape plan with a single washer just over the edge of the bearing. Make sure the washer is thicker than normal as the tolerances are quite high.

Another alternative is send an original washer to a machinist and get a few made.

[Welshy40]

Ok, new tub chassis arrived today with a few little mods, two holes removed from the rear gear box section and instead of the side plate in front of the gearbox spur cover I have copied the u shaped section from the other side and will test to see if its ok. I originally kept that wall to protect the spur gear from side impacts.

Ive also fitted the RPM knuckle arms and now have a few more mods to do to get this to work,such as adding a 68mm Uj instead of the 65mm to stop the ujs popping out. Does anyone else have a spare set of RPM Knuckles that they dont need?

[HKS_TRD]

Didn't realise you were getting another tub made
I left all four rear gearbox holes off of my tub, are you going to use two of them for something else?
Looking forward to seeing the new setup take shape

I'm still getting a few more bits anodised before I can start building up my runner along with a few more CF bits from Stephen

It never ends!

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

Didn't realise you were getting another tub made
I left all four rear gearbox holes off of my tub, are you going to use two of them for something else?
Looking forward to seeing the new setup take shape

I'm still getting a few more bits anodised before I can start building up my runner along with a few more CF bits from Stephen

It never ends!

I know, wait till you see what im working one, just waiting on some washers and shock bits and then it drool time

[rob m]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Ok, new tub chassis arrived today with a few little mods, two holes removed from the rear gear box section and instead of the side plate in front of the gearbox spur cover I have copied the u shaped section from the other side and will test to see if its ok. I originally kept that wall to protect the spur gear from side impacts.

Ive also fitted the RPM knuckle arms and now have a few more mods to do to get this to work,such as adding a 68mm Uj instead of the 65mm to stop the ujs popping out. Does anyone else have a spare set of RPM Knuckles that they dont need?

James, ive already had my tub chassis done this way with the 'U' shape cut out on both sides of the motor and it works great. easy to work on e.g removing gear cover and screws and had no issues when out on the race track

[Welshy40]

Rob,

Looking good, will give my verdict in last weekend of Feb, i recall discussing this with Martin from Fibrelyte when he asked me on how i wanted the chassis made. This wasnt done as we thought it wouldnt stop the chassis tweaking but so went for the block with a hole but now unsure so only thing i havent tried so fibrelyte were happy to sort me out.

Dan,

Sorry, yes all four gearbox rear holes removed so only have inner pivot block and rear shock tower mounting holes. Yes it never ends, mind you saying that the chassis is done, shock towers done, rear gearbox done, front gearbox next and then to finish it off the dreaded diffs. I reckon three more years.

[rob m]

Is this a new car you are building James ? If so what changes will your new one have over your current one as that is heavily moded already can't think how you can upgrade what you already have......

As for my tub chassis, i found it a big improvement over the standard carbon fibre chassis , the car was a lot more stable, responsive and direct when powering out of corners and taking high speed sections.

[HKS_TRD]

James, what have you got planned for the front gearbox, I have two nylon front gearbox halves but would like a more replaceable solution

Is there any way to get more of the blue belts made?

[type49rs]

Quick question.....I have the 7.5 degree teamline castor blocks and was wondering what kick-up on the front arms to run? I've had a look through the pics on here but the front bumper always seems to obscure the front pivot block mounting position

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by rob m

Is this a new car you are building James ? If so what changes will your new one have over your current one as that is heavily moded already can't think how you can upgrade what you already have......

As for my tub chassis, i found it a big improvement over the standard carbon fibre chassis , the car was a lot more stable, responsive and direct when powering out of corners and taking high speed sections.

Front gearbox design i touched on a while back with Oosh123 but had problems with our design as it flexed so much all the screws came loose. Ive an idea based on my rear gearbox design so aiming on doing that, also diffs were discussed with Oosh and he did the idea in 3d so want to do a real 3d version as a tester and if satisfied will make it.

Yup dealt with most issues but still little gremlins to resolve andcwhen done should be unstopable.

Great on your car, i found it liked a lower centre of gravity so on carpet its flat on the deck which doesnt make sense but works

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

James, what have you got planned for the front gearbox, I have two nylon front gearbox halves but would like a more replaceable solution

Is there any way to get more of the blue belts made?

Unsure on blue belts, i suppose if you search for belt manufactures and send an original front & rear belt should be possible to do any colour.

Front gearbox may be a cf version one cf piece on each side, but plenty of ideas on it at the moment.

[type49rs]

Originally Posted by type49rs

Quick question.....I have the 7.5 degree teamline castor blocks and was wondering what kick-up on the front arms to run? I've had a look through the pics on here but the front bumper always seems to obscure the front pivot block mounting position

Anybody?