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#21
23-03-2012
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i've got the correct cables for charging, they came with the lipo's, ive got the correct cables with the red plug for connecting lipo's to the charger with the balance board, but i cant use these for soldering to the ESC.
I need a red cable with a push plug, a black cable with a push plug, both to be soldered directly to the ESC, then plug into the lipo's and i need a black short cable to connect the 2 lipo's together, which i don't have.  what i am saying is, do these have to be made? 
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#22
24-03-2012
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in short yes!
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#23
27-03-2012
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I'm still here and still plugging away, in fact i have really enjoyed putting this all together.
i purchased a soldering iron and have made the battery cables for the ESC, and have today actually installed all the electrics.  really enjoyed doing it and the heatshrink you use on the plugs is awesome, makes a bad solder job look half decent!  i was so looking forward to the BIG switch on, but it seemed to go all wrong.  i have what seems to be a problem. unless i am being completely stupid or have done something wrong with the install. I'll try to explain. When i switch on the esc, with everything connected, the servo goes hard right lock and pops off the ball joint for the steering and stays hard right until i switch off the the esc. have i connected the servo horn incorrectly? how do i know what is centre? also i am correct in saying, that the transmitter always goes on before the buggy? Hope you are all not bored yet, i will do this on my own if it kills me!  one thing is for sure, i certainly am getting an understanding of this hobby.
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#24
27-03-2012
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No everything is nearly fine
Just remove your servo horn ( quite tricky in 410 you will need to lift the servo out) by removing upper servo cover then remove the screws on underside of chassis that hold in the servo/steering system. Then set your transmitter trims ( and sub trim if it has it ) Then switch car on! Servo will centre! Then try the servo horn back on the car so that with the servo on the cars steering is centred ( straight forward wheels ) you may need to try a few times on the servo splines till it looks about the best you can! Then the last bit can be trimmed to straight on the transmitter. Then it's time to calibrate the speedo ( using its manual )with no motor pinion fitted Hope this makes sense
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#25
27-03-2012
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Thanks very much, it all makes sense. i got a couple of hours spare during the day, so i'll have a go tomorrow. you guys have been so much help and i would'nt have been able to do it without you.
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#26
28-03-2012
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Install complete!
servo sorted, was a pig to get out, after i installed the ESC and RX but thats fine now. Calibrated the ESC with no problems, it seems ok and had the correct light flashes for neutral, full throttle and full brake. it came as standard in forward only mode, but does come with a programme card, which i'm gonna leave in the box for now! I'm not 100% happy with length of motor wires but i can live with it for now. just the shell to sort out now. i have a design in mind, and may have a go myself. the shell that it came with i am sure is not a durango official shell, its a completely different shape to my new one? it's been a long journey of discovery and mistakes, but a steep learning curve but with a lot of satisfaction too. Now, ive got to test it. 
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#27
28-03-2012
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quick question...
 my lipos are 5500mah and 7.4V what settings on the charger should i have? im using an orionUAC 50 balance charger, any idea? 2.0A balance mode? and how do i know when lipo's are charged? used to be easy with nimh batteries, light goes of or comes on!
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Linear Mode
