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  #21  
Old 30-03-2011
captainlip captainlip is offline
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You say that there is a lot of play.
Where? the 14t gear coming out the box
Diff (left to right). nope shimmed properly
Is the 14t gear moving in and out? yes
Or is the play all in the mess. yes lol
What shims are in what position? silver 0.2 on the crown side 0.1 copper on opposite


A silly question. But are you put the 3 diff screws which hold the case together through the correct side. Eg when you look at the top of the car can you see the screw head buttons? these are in correct way.
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  #22  
Old 31-03-2011
Bozzspeed Bozzspeed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghostdogg View Post
Ask them to build one for you!!
You never know what they might say. Then you'll know what it is if they don't go!!
Oli
I don't think someone else building a diff will help. I'm sure that Captian can tighten up 4 screws correctly.


Come to think of it Captianlip, even if the 3 diff screw were not in the rear bulkhead should hold it together. It just if the 2 front screws are loose, you would have a lot of movement in the 14T shaft.
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  #23  
Old 31-03-2011
Bozzspeed Bozzspeed is offline
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Let me have a quick look at mine, since it sitting next to me apart.
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  #24  
Old 31-03-2011
captainlip captainlip is offline
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I have the rear diff out, and im sure its not had this in the past, but the 14t gear has a decent amount of play forward and backwards.
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  #25  
Old 31-03-2011
Bozzspeed Bozzspeed is offline
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whats the gap between the 2 bearing in the 14T shaft when the bearings are fully pulled apart?
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  #26  
Old 31-03-2011
captainlip captainlip is offline
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should be as per manual but there is play in the front towards the 14t gear, clearly needs a shim.
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  #27  
Old 31-03-2011
Bozzspeed Bozzspeed is offline
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picture
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  #28  
Old 31-03-2011
captainlip captainlip is offline
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well there could be part of the problem, i only have a tape measure but even with that i can see its JUST over 3.0mm

durango owe me some credit or spares
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  #29  
Old 31-03-2011
Bozzspeed Bozzspeed is offline
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Now this is why you have a 3mm gap and how to fix it.

Undo the grub screw on the gear input driveshaft a little, then push it up the 14T shaft and re-tighten. This should give you at least 2.70 – 2.8.

If you have it pulled all the way out you will have the measurement of 3.00mm, which is too much movement of the shaft.
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  #30  
Old 31-03-2011
captainlip captainlip is offline
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pulled all the way in! made sure of this each time it was rebuilt.

seen this link but where the hell do i find correct shims.



http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-shim-fix.html
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  #31  
Old 31-03-2011
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Poor lock it on the screw?
Did you use the one given in the kit?
Clean the parts and use good lock it.
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  #32  
Old 31-03-2011
captainlip captainlip is offline
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the screw on the 14t gear?
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  #33  
Old 31-03-2011
Bozzspeed Bozzspeed is offline
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The Durango importer may only consider a replacement if you return all the parts to examine and something is machined wrong.

I hard to see that all parts that you have purchased are machined wrong, but could be. But from the info from the last few messages it looks like the driveshaft has not been pushed on far enough. As the instruction says 2.8mm is the correct spacing. At 3mm you should of been asking the shop where you purchase the car about the measurement being wrong and why. This is why a shop makes money from us.

A question for Adam:
In the instruction it a cross next to the 2.00mm setting. No way could I ever get a 2mm setting if I tried. Should it read 3.00mm? That would make more sense and may stop this problem from happening again.
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  #34  
Old 31-03-2011
captainlip captainlip is offline
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so basically i need to stick shims in there? as per link above? where the hell i get those!

thanks for the help, but i still feel durango are at fault and should be here offering replacement and support in extreme cases like this.

£100 already and still no functioning gearboxes.
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  #35  
Old 31-03-2011
Bozzspeed Bozzspeed is offline
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or you could make the slot in the shaft a little longer. I wouldn't use the shim method as it the moves the gear forward and you may not be able to space it out correctly with the diff shims.

I hoped all this helped you.

Is it time to go to bed?
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  #36  
Old 31-03-2011
captainlip captainlip is offline
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sure is thanks!

dunno about the cutting out havent got a dremmel
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  #37  
Old 31-03-2011
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IF you need to shim it, you just need some 5mm shims, something like

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD709015

I rebuilt one yesterday that had too much movement in the input shaft, I thought I would have to shim it, but cleaned it all out, and it closed up nicely with zero play.

Getting the mesh right is the key and no play anywhere.
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  #38  
Old 31-03-2011
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Sounds to me like complete user error!
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  #39  
Old 31-03-2011
Ian F Ian F is offline
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Are you running on carpet?
I would say the slipper is to tight, the kit setting is way to much, try backing it all the way to get slip then tighten, I've been running one all winter and only done 1 rear when I changed surface to astro.
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  #40  
Old 31-03-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmgreen View Post
Sounds to me like complete user error!
Agree here. Fail to see how you can come on here claiming their built correctly when you have admitted having play in the input shaft.

Defiantly user error. My diffs have been fine since I built t it when they first came out

You should be apologizing to Durango.
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