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#21
06-01-2011
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Are the Kyosho/AE/HB gears a direct fit or does it need some mods other then proper shimming? Do people use the caster slipper or do they use something else? Going to run mod motor so maybe best way is to get the metal gears! My other buggys use losi/AE/Tamiya rear rims, any mods i can do to use the same rims? Hassle to buy tons of rims&tires ust for this car!
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ME & MY OWN WALLET RACING! 
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#22
06-01-2011
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Quote:
john
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John Cockill BRCA 1/10 OFF ROAD HEAD REFEREE
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#23
06-01-2011
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Quote:
Caster slipper is not bad but... to adjust it you have to take it out from buggy so some drivers went to HB D4 slipper... But it is expensive and not easy to find...  Even with mod motors if you shim correctly and set correctly slipper you should be ok with standard gears... But always it is good to have spare ones A quote from casterracingusa forum: "Tamiya and any other with a zero offsett and 12mm hex, pin style wheels with a shim behind the pin will work...". I do know for sure that wheels with 12mm hex and zero offset fits nicely . Sold all B44 wheels so can not say anything about pin style rims...
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#24
07-01-2011
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Caster Racing USA would like to announce that we are upgrading our S10B Sniper Pro 1/10 scale 4wd cars. The Sniper is very unique in that 90% of parts are available in plastic or aluminum and 10% are also available in US made carbon fiber as a third choice based on cost, performance, and/or durability.
Our cars are dialed and very solid out of the box, but we decided that the drivetrain needs to be there also if we want to be competitive in the marketplace. The pro cars will now come with stainless steel washers, ceramic ball diffs, additional washers to ensure the delrin gears are solid, and the new pressure differential set. Just to prove that we are serious, we also just finished producing center and rear cvds and metal bevel gears just to shore up any possible durability issues. New price to be determined, but parts and kits have probably landed in the United States by the time you are reading this.      
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#26
26-01-2011
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#27
30-01-2011
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I have done app 15-20 packs with my S10B rtr..changed electronics to Speedpassion LPF/6.5r v3 motor..the car out of the box is real good..i think everyone that change motor to a faster/stronger need to shim the diffs..i had not all the time, so i changed the maingear in the diff to B44..and then shimmed..i have a friend that runs it box, but with other oil, lipo and stock BL, no problem at all..
for the last 4-5 years i have been running BJ4WE/Atomic Carbon S4 and B44..and this is the car i like best, this is my opinion..i have been doing some testing now, and it works better and better..the car is smooth, and EASY to drive, with lots of gripp and quick..we are running Schumacher slicks (mini pins), tiresauce..cant wait to next run.. 
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#28
30-01-2011
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Hi Thomas I have just fitted the top Ali stiffener plates and Ali motor mount on my basic roller, I have also fitted the new metal diff gears and bevel gears, it has made the buggy much stiffer and with a 5.5 motor setup in it it flies. I done think you would need to go to the pro version unless you want the bling.
Regards Ashley
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#32
31-01-2011
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I'm getting old I forgot to add the text, Pic shows buggy with Ali top braces fitted. I also fitted the Ali motor mount as it holds the meshing better and displaces heat better, the metal diff gears run quiet and smooth. I like the new body what is it from I want one. I can supply you caster parts if you ever need them. Regards Ashley
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#33
01-03-2011
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So the DD chassi arrived for a few days..could not hold, so i mounted her up...this is the result, sad i cant try it untill next weekend..
  
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#34
24-04-2011
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s1ob cvddrive shaft repair
hi was wondering i just bought my first radio controlled car castor s10b the front cvd drive shaft has broken away from the drive cup so the wheels not turning looks like its a pin thats missing have u got a picture of a the part or name of the part i need to fix it with i have circled the parts in my instruction book that i think i need. Any help would be great thanks peter.
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#35
27-05-2011
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I do not know is there CVD Joint + Set Screw for front CVDs... Pin part number is "SK101" (for all CVD's). And there is full set of front CVD "SK102-A Front CVD Set". You have to look exactly for "SK102-A", not "SK102" (it is only shaft). I will ask Caster Racing for CVD Joint + Set Screw part number and post back.
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#36
25-06-2011
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Quote:
I'm looking for one also. Rgs, A
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#37
28-06-2011
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Part number is SK132 CVD Joint+Set Screw (2pc).
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#38
08-07-2011
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what set ups do you guys use i.e what holes in the shock towers for loose surfaces ???
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#39
10-07-2011
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what set up do you run on astro any other problems you are finding with them
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#40
11-07-2011
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I drilled out 2 extra 1.5mm holes in front and rear pistons. (Black 2 hole, now 4 hole) 25wt in rear and 30 in front. Losi lime green springs rear and blue on front. Polished shafts. This seem to help the handling over bumpy track. A few practice laps with the Caster S10B http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8Ku3IZfvIM
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