Team Tekin Q&A

[Randy p]

DCM the turbo feature is not public yet. It's coming though. So far the only ones complaining are the LRP users...

My 4wd standard setup:

[magnus]

My RS ( not pro) runs good for about 1 min. Then it starts to lose power and then after about 4 min it tempcuts. I run a Losi 6.5 in a xx4 geared with a 19 gear and it doesn't feel overgeared. What to do? Is it too week for 4wd?

[DCM]

it would be a push, I know it is suppose to go down to a 5.5turn, but that is theoretical.

What firmware you running, do you have a fan?

[magnus]

Well I don't know what firmwere it is since I'm waiting for my hotwire. It's right out the box. I didn't run a fan. Could try that. They should say something about the theoretical 5.5 turn. Then I would have bought the pro version.

[DCM]

sorry about that, it is usualy a given, that the turn limit, if run close to, you run risk of thermalling, on any ESC. Updating the firmware to the latest, will make it run a lot cooler.

[Lowie]

Originally Posted by DCM

At a glance.... he will need the latest firmware, but here goes, from memory

Neutral Width LED 1&2 lit
Throttle Profile 3 or 4 depending on track
Limiter 90
SENSORED ONLY
Timing on ESC 30'
Timing on motor 0'

Hope that helps dude

why not running it in dualmode but in sensored only?

[DCM]

with a stock motor type (10.5, 13.5 etc) it gives more RPM at the top end, and it makes the timing more controllable.

[Lowie]

aha I c,

but unfortunatly it would be used for running the Tamiya BL (12T) motors and those are sensorless if I'm not mistaken.

[DCM]

ah, right, I didn't realise.

I would look at running a similar setup to the 4wd buggy then

Dual Mode
Timing 80-90
Limiter 90-100
Throttle profile 2-4 (depends how he likes his throttle delivery)

Hope that helps

[mikeyscott]

Hi,

Ran my RS Pro in my XX-CR Kinwald (yes a XX) today and very nice. However can people recommend settings for a 7.5 LRP X11 brushless on lipos etc. FDR is currently around 9.4 as recommended by the LRP X11 manual.. I am looking at selling the motors I have for a LRP X12 as I have been paid!

Think I need to look at the netural width settings etc.



This is with a KO Helios EX-10 and soon to be a Savox Servo when it comes back from RMA.

Cheers,

Mike

[DCM]

BS - 100%
NW - 1&2 LED's
TP - 2 or 3
Timing Advance - 70-80
Current Limit - start at 70%, see how traction and punch is out of the corner

You can use Sensored mode, with 10' boost, but you will need to gear down a tooth

[mikeyscott]

Hi

Thanks for the info.

Any reason why to bring the current limit down? Also 100% Brake strength that'll be quite agressive won't it? I'm not a great fan of brake, more gradual brake etc.

I see the timing has gone up since I've just updated the firmware.

Traction at my local track is high as it's astroturf. Titchfield.

[Fabs]

For 2WD braking about 80%.

You really want the timing to 80%

The limiter is to help at the start and from low speed, more controlable punch. If you doubt it, Kev Lee won last 2WD national with his set at, if i'm not mistaken, 90A. If it's good enough for him...

[DCM]

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

Hi

Thanks for the info.

Any reason why to bring the current limit down? Also 100% Brake strength that'll be quite agressive won't it? I'm not a great fan of brake, more gradual brake etc.

I see the timing has gone up since I've just updated the firmware.

Traction at my local track is high as it's astroturf. Titchfield.

I run the brakes at 100% on the ESC, and then turn them down to suit on the radio.

[mikeyscott]

Hi chaps.

Thanks for the answers. I'll be modifying it futher as recommended

What led me to this was I thought the ESC wasn't correctly set due to my 7.5 feeling "slow". After rebuilding one of my laptops to a 32 bit Windows O/S I can get it all set right.. Time to get a cheap laptop for racing

Just got to get used to it. Got an LRP Sphere TC in my B4 with a 10.5, but the XX, 7.5 & Tekin rocks

[DCM]

I got a Redline 10.5 in the X Pro, and it isn't a slouch...

[discostu]

why do you guys use the dual mode i found the sensor mode smoother and faster!

[mikeyscott]

Originally Posted by DCM

I got a Redline 10.5 in the X Pro, and it isn't a slouch...

True and it may end up back in the Losi.

[Randy p]

Sensored only mode is generally used for spec class racing. Most mods don't need more than 30 degrees of timing overall and Dual mode has that. Dual mode is also more efficient and has smoother power. So if traction is too high and you're needing to keep the wheels down it's nice.

Sensored only mode can be faster if setup right. Often times though people over time their setup and or over gear them which causes too much motor heat...

Both work well. I generally go to dual mode once I get to the 8.5 and lower.

RP

[mikeyscott]

I've set-up mine as per the LRP manual for the FDR of around 9.5

That's on a XXCR 2.19