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#1
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Thoughts on the MR2 after todays first drive
Well I tested the Mr2 today on our astro bumpy track
This one After a oil and piston and spring swap from how I got it set up from the previous owner, I must say Im pretty happy with it. I now run XRAY XB4 pistions F 3x1.3 35wt and I think it is AE blue R 3x1.4 27.5 and I think stock blue I also replaced the bleed screws that one was stripped with 2mm ones I used TD210 wheels rears was and ok easy mod to do but I found that the front axle was a mm too short and it binded up if I screwed to tight. I ended up using a angled screw and a small spacer, there was a little in and out movement but not too much I though I would test the gear diff I got with it as the ball diff was a bit rough. Put it in and the dreaded bark... took it out and then apart to find that there are plastic internal gears and they had skipped and were now useless (were probably a bit worn anyway) I did miss a bit of the on power steering both with well used nanobytes and blockpass, so I will try staggered that usually give the 210 too much steering. |
#2
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Ran my Bmax 2 for the first time today as well.
pretty much kit standard with the yoko 400 oil up front, and changed to 27.5 rear. had AE yellow front springs and kit rears. yellow cut stagger up front and yellow mini spikes in the rear. was running on a fairly bumpy, astro and grass track, I thought it went really well. was very happy with it, but not so much my driving I changed the rear camber as well, so that the ball stud is in the middle hole on the gearbox case with a thicker shim under it felt this helped plant the rear end when the track got baked in the sun and became dusty and slippy feels like it performed better than my 210 need more time to get comfortable with the car |
#3
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Kit springs are blues front and rear. Metal internal gears were announced at Shizuoka and should be available soon.
http://www.teamyokomo.com/download/2...ka_release.pdf |
#4
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I just took the gear box apart and 1 idle gear had a couple of teeth missing.
I had a look and I installed 2 of the vaterra metal idle gears, the gear diff would fit as well but one side is a little more square edges than round like the original yoko diff. Tried it on the bench and it seemed to be fine but Ill have to test it on high grip to see if it holds up. |
#5
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I raced mine for the first time last friday, I found it more difficult to jump than my dex210 because of the weight distribution.
I am happy with the handling, I just need more time racing the car I think. What springs and pistons do most people run on grass? |
#6
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Liked mine a lot, my first meeting with it and I managed 13th in round at Batley's North East Regional. Handling is better than the 210 but seemed to be slightly inconsistent on the massive jump where as the 210 was very controllable in the air.
Overall I think it's a superb car with a lot of serious potential. |
#7
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What size of batteries do you use? I also had some mid-air issues in Dortmund some weeks ago, running rear motor with full length battery (saddles). Last year I did not experience any issues with the original B-Max2 when I used to run with shorty batteries.
Last weekend I compared my old bodyshell (nicer paintjob ) with the MR body, and I sticked to the cab fwd afterwards. Steering was better and the car jumped better, too. If even an average driver like me can notice such a difference, cab forward bodies are not mumbo jumbo at all. I've got a Finnisher on the way, which I'll probably run in mid-motor. Winter is coming! |
#8
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Use the curved wing for mid as the square one gives to much rear in the air making the car nose up. You will also find adding about 60g to the front via the cream weight and some lead pieces will allow the car to be more consistent
__________________
Luniemiester drives: AE B6.1 AE B6.1d AE B74 AE T6.1 AE SC6.1 Kits and parts supplied by: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/[/size] My Feedback thread: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...945#post691945 |
#9
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Quote:
Did have a quick go with some TM2 pistons the weekend - they certainly let the car land off the jumps well but I need to play with oils and springs a bit more with them to get the best out of them
__________________
Luniemiester drives: AE B6.1 AE B6.1d AE B74 AE T6.1 AE SC6.1 Kits and parts supplied by: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/[/size] My Feedback thread: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...945#post691945 |
#10
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#11
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sort a jump in the back yard or a park and try it with different weight until you can find the best balance. |
#12
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#13
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Yokomo's aluminum parts should be available soon:
http://teamyokomo.com/news/order_she...2_newparts.pdf |
#14
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Those are some nice looking prices as well for those things.
I have done 2 sets of the geardiff internals on high grip astro so those will be great. Id also like to try the alu chassis as well Id say those other things are a bit of bling but at those prices why not (prob not the battery straps tho) |
#15
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Exactly my thoughts! Everything but the battery straps for me, please!
IMHO, the original battery strap on the rear motor car is the best on the market. Why would anyone want to replace it with a traditional cf strap? |
#16
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Quote:
__________________
Martin Sørlie, 1985. Spektrum DX4R Pro - TLR 22 2.0 & TLR 22-4 - Absima Team Smallsize |
#17
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I really don't know im afraid. I looked for the gear diff online somewhere and it suggested to buy the idle gears as well when i had the gear diff in the shopping basket.
With them in its louder than a 410 :-D They held up fine i just need to redo the dice i have in the ball diff |
#18
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I'm now very happy with the MR after a couple of tweaks. I used no 3 pistons in the front with 37.5wt oil in front and stuck 10g in the front and it was amazingly good on grass.
The turn in was better and the balance improved a lot. Unfortunately my driving let me down pushing too hard overall it's the best 2wd I've had to date. |
#19
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New chassis
Does anyone know when the new Aluminium chassis is going to be out?
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#20
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