superstox advise

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by sosidge

So what you are saying is that the people at ROAR who are putting all these ESCs on an oscilloscope to check that they are built to the exact blinky specification are doing it wrong and that a significant proportion of the ESCs allow you to cheat?

In that case could you explain why my "cheat" Hobbywing Xtreme Stock ESC is exactly the same speed as my (hopefully legal) Speed Passion Reventon ESC? And can you explain why LRP (who happened to have helped create the Blinky spec) are still submitting cheat speedos? And can you explain why the A-final cars at the Cotswold BRCA Clubman's national on a 60m straight were incredibly even on pace, with a variety of ESCs in use?

The problem with Blinky is that everyone is paranoid about getting beaten, And if people get beaten, they suspect foul play. The truth is, some people are better at preparing their powertrain, some people are better drivers, and some people are both.

you culd be thinking of static speedo timing/punch and not on the fly timing

[russmini]

Well, I can't fault it. I run a setup very close to kit, even Saturday at Tamworth running kit front springs and foams. Rear springs kit and in middle position.
Always run 37's on the rear.
TQ'd racing on Saturday and the car was awesome.

I would add I've had a few weeks of soso results whilst testing different front end setups. After starting to slowly going backwards to kit, each change resulted in me being quicker. So for me, from now on kit/what I said above is where I'll always run mine now.

[SlowOne]

Originally Posted by tisher

so are all you guys running a diff then I know this would no doubt calm the back end down as you could set a bit of slip

Never run a ball diff with slip in it. It will flat the balls or the rings or both, and then as a diff it is not much better than a solid axle from a handling perspective. If you can't make the car handle unless it has less power (which is all a slipping diff is doing) then sort the car out.

Originally Posted by PaulUpton

From what I've heard the hobbywing speedo has a certain amount of static timing built into it even in blinky mode. There is a noticeable difference when I've races against people using hobbywing vs my core pacer

Complete rubbish. See the BRCA 12th Rules for the correct definition of a blinky speedo. This is the definition used by ROAR and is what their lab uses to check a speedo. It is the definition being worked by the BRCA for their use.

Originally Posted by stegger

Interesting , so the only real way of having a "STOCK SETTING" would be for all manufacturers to run the same software or components and that wouldn't happen ! Not really a equal playing field !

It would be good to see what people were using today to see if there was an advantage.

Correct, and for all motors to be run with the sensors at the same angle to the stacks. That's why there is a speedo that people reckon is just a smidge better than the rest...

Originally Posted by PaulUpton

You cab also do something with a lrp speedo it give it timing in blinky mode

No you can't... period. Maybe the factory could, but you can't. And the factory never would since if they were caught cheating their reputation would be rubbished and their products banned by all the National Associations. If there is one guy passionate about sticking to the Rules it is Jurgen Lautenbach.

Originally Posted by sosidge

So what you are saying is that the people at ROAR who are putting all these ESCs on an oscilloscope to check that they are built to the exact blinky specification are doing it wrong and that a significant proportion of the ESCs allow you to cheat?

In that case could you explain why my "cheat" Hobbywing Xtreme Stock ESC is exactly the same speed as my (hopefully legal) Speed Passion Reventon ESC? And can you explain why LRP (who happened to have helped create the Blinky spec) are still submitting cheat speedos? And can you explain why the A-final cars at the Cotswold BRCA Clubman's national on a 60m straight were incredibly even on pace, with a variety of ESCs in use?

The problem with Blinky is that everyone is paranoid about getting beaten, And if people get beaten, they suspect foul play. The truth is, some people are better at preparing their powertrain, some people are better drivers, and some people are both.

Now there's a guy who knows the facts, and what he is talking about!

Originally Posted by PaulUpton

Just saying what I have been told. The LRP 'trick' is a sequence of some sort you do to change settings on it. Obviously only LRP insiders would know this, unless its not true and just a romour.

Not worried about being beaten, infact the 4 GT12 meetings I've done I've TQ'ed and won all 4, even beaten your "cheat" speedos all about corner speed with GT12

Not sure how they check speedos, but would the way they check them only check timing advance or will it do static timing. As that's what I have heard the hobby wing has over the core one

From MY experience the hobby wing speedos I've ran against have had higher top end than my core with roughly the same rollout/lipo ratings.

It's just a rumour... they check them electronically and examine their software and then they confirm the blinky mode signal... and you have found the speedo that has a smidge more, but only in one variety...

But let's get back to helping out with the Supastox...

[tisher]

Originally Posted by SlowOne

Never run a ball diff with slip in it. It will flat the balls or the rings or both, and then as a diff it is not much better than a solid axle from a handling perspective. If you can't make the car handle unless it has less power (which is all a slipping diff is doing) then sort the car out

But let's get back to helping out with the Supastox...

Hence why I am asking for some advise on friday I could not even get the car off the line with any more than quarter throttle it just veered off to the left soon as any sort of power was put down I am going to try some of the above advise for this friday to see if I can calm it down

[russmini]

What prep do you do before you get to the line? Can you have an installation lap or 2 etc? I have always found that for at least half a lap, the back end is very loose, but by the time I've done an installation lap, the car is sorted. I also usually never apply full throttle off the line, I always build it up. For the final on Saturday, I managed to do 3 or 4 practice starts, gunning the throttle each time. I had TQ'd, so wanted to get the hell out of there. It worked perfectly.
Perhaps that's something you could try?

[tisher]

Originally Posted by russmini

What prep do you do before you get to the line? Can you have an installation lap or 2 etc? I have always found that for at least half a lap, the back end is very loose, but by the time I've done an installation lap, the car is sorted. I also usually never apply full throttle off the line, I always build it up. For the final on Saturday, I managed to do 3 or 4 practice starts, gunning the throttle each time. I had TQ'd, so wanted to get the hell out of there. It worked perfectly.
Perhaps that's something you could try?

yea get a few laps to warm up the tyres etc the car just felt like it had way to much torque I have managed to get hold of a diff so going to put that in but I am new to brushless 12ths I did one series with a g12 mardave that ran really well but this thing was just a nightmare

[SlowOne]

I hope this helps some of you, even though it is not the only cause of Tisher's problem IMHO...

You should not have to run any installation laps to bed the tyres down. Installation laps are to test grip and set steering throw based on what you feel the car is doing, and to confirm what the grip level now is.

When applying additive to foam tyres for carpet, rears are usually done for twice the time of fronts. Ideally, using CS High or Speedtech, rears should be done for 20 minutes, and fronts for 10 minutes. Rears should be full width additive, and fronts half width. Apply sparingly with a soft-haired brush. Soaking them just makes them soft and wastes additive.

Remove all the excess additive with a towel, and then rub the tyres until they are 'dry' to the touch. Take care not to spread that additive across the whole front tyre when doing this. Now make a final dry using a piece of he towel that has no additive on it. All this should be complete the heat before you run so the tyres are completely dry and ready to race.

On a club night there often isn't time for that procedure, so try using only two sets of tyres and alternate them from side to side, and heat to heat. After their first application of additive, cut the time the additive sits on them in half, but still make sure they are rubbed dry. Wherever possible, let them sit in that state for a heat before you race.

If you can't let them sit, then rub harder to make them dryer. Drive the first few corners of your installation lap slowly, then do a couple of standing starts to dry off the rears completely. If possible, make the car understeer on a couple of corners to dry off the fronts. Now you are ready to race.

The object of the exercise is to have dry tyres at the start of the race. That will give you the most consistent handling throughout the race. If you start on wet tyres the car will be everywhere, you will lose loads of time, and then during the race the handling will change. That's not a good basis for changing set-ups to gain lap time!

I do see drivers coming from TC put cars down with wet tyres - not good! Also, just because the tyres dry when you race them does not mean they are 'stable' for a whole race. On high-grip tracks, wet tyres will react differently with the additive already on the carpet, and that will again make the handling change through the race. Dry tyres are the key to a good race time. HTH

[joker]

dose it do this just of the line?i sounds like your diff is the main problem here not tyres try doing it up a small bit and try the car on the track keep doing this till it pulls straight line also cheack the alinement of the rear pod with the chassis and ajust the turnbuckle if needed also check the tweak and the weight blance of the car if you do all this and it still dose it make shore nothing is bent or broken i have seen a few warped chassis

[tisher]

Right guys first thing cheers for all the advise it has been well appreciated.


Are you all ready for the epic FAIL of the week I have just gone through all the car again and you are not going to believe what I have c....ked up on.
In my infinite wisdom I decided last week to leave the body post full size as I have not got my new shell yet. Here's the best bit the rear posts had completely locked the sag out of the back of the car holding it up at about 6mm and had absolute no suspension at all completely rigid

I thought on the night the is no way shumacher would make a car this bad

On a plus note I was only one lap off the pace god help them friday

Cheers everyone who have posted some great help

[joker]

pms!!!!!!

[reg]

[SlowOne]

I am not laughing... not even sniggering... I am crying with laughter!!!!

Cruel, I know. If I've made this sort of schoolboy error once, I have done it a hundred times. The moral of the story is always the same - if something happens to a good car that everyone else finds just fine, go back and check, check and check again because the chances of one having dropped clanger are better than David Cameron voting Tory.

Glad it's sorted though, only one thing worse than a cock-up; a mystery...

[tisher]

much better last night guys managed to get 4th place even tho I was leading until I was took out on numerous occasions.
Really struggled with the core rc esc the reverse does not seem to want to come in quick enough ended up doing a 20sec lap on a 11 sec track in the final because of it.
Is there any escs that don't have a delay for reverse.
Another thing tho there seems to be alot of cars that are quicker by long way compared to mine is there any way to make it quicker with out cheating

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by tisher

much better last night guys managed to get 4th place even tho I was leading until I was took out on numerous occasions.
Really struggled with the core rc esc the reverse does not seem to want to come in quick enough ended up doing a 20sec lap on a 11 sec track in the final because of it.
Is there any escs that don't have a delay for reverse.
Another thing tho there seems to be alot of cars that are quicker by long way compared to mine is there any way to make it quicker with out cheating

lots of clubs/nationals dont allow reverse.
see if there running blinky, if not add some timing

[tisher]

so even if you ramp up the timing on the motor you are still within the rules I think I might do that next week Nice one

[cr1tch]

Originally Posted by tisher

so even if you ramp up the timing on the motor you are still within the rules I think I might do that next week Nice one

Martin Give me a shout at the club i will be happy to help, though i wont make you as quick as my mardave

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by tisher

so even if you ramp up the timing on the motor you are still within the rules I think I might do that next week Nice one

What rules do ur club run too, mine is open Speedo

[Joe_K]

Hi guys,Just bought a SupaStox and will be running it in 2S 21.5T.Just a few questions for those of you with more experience of these cars really.

1) I'll be running this on a fairly open track (30M straight). What rollout should I be looking at? 70-ish MMPR?

2) What sort of tyre diameters do you go for? Where do you start from? 51mm on the rear?

3) What tyre diameter split do you run rear to front? 2.5mm? 3.5mm?

4) What shells work? My current thinking is to go with the Ascari.

5) I've noticed that my steering blocks are a tight fit onto the metal steering posts. What were your solutions? Should I just file it out a little with a needle file or is there a better way?

Cheers folks, looking forward to seeing what these cars can do.Joe

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Originally Posted by Joe_K

Hi guys,Just bought a SupaStox and will be running it in 2S 21.5T.Just a few questions for those of you with more experience of these cars really.



4) What shells work? My current thinking is to go with the Ascari.
Ascari is safe, Lotus is pointy


5) I've noticed that my steering blocks are a tight fit onto the metal steering posts. What were your solutions? Should I just file it out a little with a needle file or is there a better way?
Sounds like you've nipped up the stub axle to much. Back the nut off and report back. If no better run a drill bit through by hand.

and if you don't get the answer your looking for try here https://www.facebook.com/groups/336445139755237/

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by Joe_K

Hi guys,Just bought a SupaStox and will be running it in 2S 21.5T.Just a few questions for those of you with more experience of these cars really.

1) I'll be running this on a fairly open track (30M straight). What rollout should I be looking at? 70-ish MMPR?

2) What sort of tyre diameters do you go for? Where do you start from? 51mm on the rear?

3) What tyre diameter split do you run rear to front? 2.5mm? 3.5mm?

4) What shells work? My current thinking is to go with the Ascari.

5) I've noticed that my steering blocks are a tight fit onto the metal steering posts. What were your solutions? Should I just file it out a little with a needle file or is there a better way?

Cheers folks, looking forward to seeing what these cars can do.Joe

hi joe i only run 1s 13.5 so not much help on that (get a 1s and 13.5 would be my recomendation) as you can then do nationals should you wish
1/ 13.5 im around 65 to 70
2/3 i started at 50mm rear with 2mm split and found that fine
4/ my club had no shell restriction so i run the touring car, but the ascari is good with the lotus seeming to be the "choice" however im not sure what was run at the recent national
5/ i had this on mine and found that if you slaken the nut that holds the king pin in the steering block it does not do it, theory was that as i tightend the nut the hex in the block twisted slightly distorting the plastic.