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#2041
06-03-2009
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Quote:
 Car drives itself and is a lot less work to get round most tracks. no wrestling involved 
__________________
If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest.  
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#2042
06-03-2009
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never feel like I am wrestling it though, just driving it hard, I always find, with one-ways, they are fiddly to get into corners... as I do like my brakes lol
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man!
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#2043
06-03-2009
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Driving with a One-Way
Jimmy,
I was hoping you could give me some tips for driving my Durga with a center one-way.. I have done a lot of research before I added the one-way, so I know how they operate and the benefits it can provide.. I have been slowly adjusting my driving habits to take more advantage of it.. Mostly I have been focusing on off-power steering through the corners with little to no usage of the brake.. When I time it right, I can zoom around the corners with excellent grip. I have also seen the benefits of timing the throttle while landing a jump. What other ways can the one-way be utilized for improved driving / steering? Thanks.
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#2045
07-03-2009
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just by a JConcepts wing, or a wide B4 wing, or even, yuk yuk, a Losi one!!
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man!
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#2046
07-03-2009
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AJ, you're in the US so try this pack from Losi Parts House: http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...AD-WING/Detail - plenty of wings to chew up there mate!
__________________
Dragon Paints
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#2047
07-03-2009
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Yeah I'm from the U.S. my friend. I Come to this site for all foreign intelligence regarding RC car's. Lol Jk. Im probably gonna go with the Losi wing's that i4n recommended. I will check out the prices first, and see which wing's i can source for the best $$, Thanks again guy's.
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#2048
10-03-2009
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Just wanna update on the race which I attended locally. It's my first maiden race with this DB01 and also in this class.
I qualified 6th and got into A Main after 3 rounds of 5 mins heats with EP4600 unmatched packs/ Tamiya BZ motor. As it was a Tamiya sanctioned race, the hop-ups are only limited to the Tamiya ones only. I regretted not getting the alu suspension holders and blocks and thus causing me to only qualify on one of the 3 mains. The other 2 were DNFs because of my lousy kerb clipping skills which resulted to the popping of the rear suspension pins from the plastic blocks. The mains were 3 rounds of 5min races with the laps totaled at the end. First round I started off 6th and ended 6th 2nd round:First problem, I only brought one charger down, my trusty Hyperion 1210I, and could not get the batts to charge in time. Managed to put in 2.2k+ mah and quickly got it installed and jumped to the track. After the first few laps, I was taking the lead after the leader got caught in traffic and also got me off the lead and into third after unable to keep up with the increasing pressure from the race leader. 3rd round was totally unlucky for me. After the first lap, I was trying to avoid rear ending another driver and thus, another DB01 rear ended me and prematurely ending my race. Here's my setup for the medium bite carpet. Front: 500cts shock oil, blue springs, 1.3mm pistons, no limiters, heavy roll bars. Stock TRF shocks. Rear: 400cts shock oil, yellow springs, 1.4mm pistons, no limiters, light roll bar. TRF shock mods with stock spring retainers and shock ends. No one way installed. I think I would be faster with the one ways installed because I was the only A-main driver which has the stock diffs on. I'm gonna get myself some performance upgrades and be ready for the next round in April on asphalt.
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#2049
10-03-2009
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@mathsinstrument - have you tried shimming the suspension shafts? Worked for me in stopping the arms from popping.
Otherwise, sounds like a competitive showing - although that track doesn't look like much fun for buggies. I'm not a fan of big air but three small straight-line jumps on a flat carpet track doesn't look very interesting. You could probably get away with limiting the shock travel quite a lot, and run the stiffer DF03 (or kit) springs, make it run like a touring car. Looks like a nice on-road track though.
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#2052
11-03-2009
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Where I come from, Singapore, we do not have the luxury of having purpose built tracks like you guys have..... So the local distributor secured some location within a shopping mall(also to boost advertising) and conducted a race there.... The classes which were there were F1, Touring 23T(TZ/RZ motor only), super stock touring and buggy. The next track will be more promising, where it will be at a more purpose built facility. The owner of the track has an on road track now and a dedicated electric 1/10 off road track in the works. I tried limiting the travel of the shocks and it actually got worse. The rear was slipping all over the place.
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#2053
11-03-2009
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Quote:
I was running the C-compound tires.
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#2054
11-03-2009
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My younger brother is interested to race together with me on the next race. Is the DF-03 any competitive? I've got a friend who has a souped up DF-03 and he's interested to take over.
Would it be better if he bought a DB01 or will this DF03 be just as competitive?
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#2055
11-03-2009
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mathsinstrument,
I've heard some drivers (much more advanced than me) saying the DF03 drives better than the DB01 on the twisty carpet tracks but from my experience the DB01 is much easier to drive and doesn't break as much. And from what I see, all the DF03's from the TAC finals last year were in the back end of the last two groups. The A-main was all DB01. I tried both and, personally, I hated the DF-03. It might be faster in some very small sections of the track but generally, you had to enter the ramps almost perfectly square on (which never happens when I'm driving), to avoid comical landings, plus we were using some heavy batteries then (IB4600) which really made the DF03 front heavy especially in the air. Also you can expect the rear gearbox top (where the rear shock towers attach) to crack at least once each race day, and this part might be hard to find (check and see). Since you already have a DB01, I think your brother should get the same because (a) it's a much better buggy and (b) you can share parts and setups and (c) I think Stargek supplies more spares for the DB01 (d) it's worth mentioning twice that it's a much better buggy (that much). But ya, I do recommend the aluminium rear suspension arm mounts. Expensive but saves a lot of frustration. Oh ya the expensive C compound tires seem to be a bit softer than the K (kit) but for some reason they slip all over the carpet, so we all gave up on them early on and went back to the K ones.
__________________
http://www.modrc.com
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#2056
11-03-2009
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I tried lots with my DF-03 and couldn't get it anywhere near what I got my DB-01 is now.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man!
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#2057
15-03-2009
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Quote:
btw, hello to all here. i m new, like this forum. thanks for all your infos! i m running a durga, a sfg and a colt 4 wd daniel
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#2060
15-03-2009
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look in my first post...its from a sfg...(reading helps sometimes! .-) )
__________________
Reely Rhino (RIP) Reely Colt 4 WD (still alive...) Tamiya Superfighter G (Rubber Duck) Tamiya Durga Walking Frame (RTR) Handcart (servo problem) Brushless Grandma (...toothless) Braun Oral B (LiPo)
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Tamiya
Linear Mode
