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  #41  
Old 16-06-2015
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Originally Posted by timoxx4 View Post
I am finding the same. Just bought a 4 III and first run on the weekend and it had a tone of steering and was also very loose and sliding in the rear. Kit setup basically with 2wd stagger ribs front and mini pins rear in yellow compound. Med/High grip indoor Carpet.

When you guys talk about 5mm of limiters in the front shocks are you saying 5 of the little Yokomo shock limiters ? Or an actual measured 5mm worth of shims ? As 5 of the Yokomo limiters would only be 4mm measured as they are only 0.8mm thick each. Kit has 2 in the front. I just put 5mm worth in and now I pretty much have no droop at all.

Is that right ? Seems like a very extreme droop reduction. Excessively so.
Yes i use 5x 0.8mm yokomo droop washers in each front shock. I have also used 6x indoors on flat tracks, and 4x on bumpy outdoor, but preferred 5x.
Rear has 3x to stop shafts popping out.

It's not excessive. Ive seen similar amounts used on B44.x cars.
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  #42  
Old 16-06-2015
timoxx4 timoxx4 is offline
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Ah I put too much in mine then. So 4mm is what it should be not 5mm. That explains a lot thanks. Do you know what length the shock shaft is after you add those shims ? As the rod end can be screwed in more or less which will give a different droop setting also ? I have mine set at 19mm with the 5 limiters inside the shock but I could make it a lot less if I screw the rod end all the way in. I think 20mm is kit length.

Last edited by timoxx4; 17-06-2015 at 05:32 AM.
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  #43  
Old 16-06-2015
timoxx4 timoxx4 is offline
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Also while I remember. I see on Lee's setups he has the caster blocks modified and pushed back 2mm. Dose anyone know what that dose for the car exactly ?
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  #44  
Old 17-06-2015
Allan1875 Allan1875 is offline
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Originally Posted by timoxx4 View Post
Also while I remember. I see on Lee's setups he has the caster blocks modified and pushed back 2mm. Dose anyone know what that dose for the car exactly ?
Shortens the wheelbase and makes the car more stable on the low grip. I had an issue with the rear collapsing on low grip when turning and once I made this modification it was much better.
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  #45  
Old 17-06-2015
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Originally Posted by neallewis View Post
Confusing the issue, on the yz2 i run the bmax4iii arms and its excellent on both high, med and low traction tracks, I've found.

On my bmax4iii, i found the narrower yz2 rear arms to be worse on sandy medium traction astro, and Yorcc gym floor low traction, so i went back to B4-008R1 arms. I've not run yz2 rear arms at RHR though.

Allan, what's the technical reasoning behind the arm width for high or low traction?
Right, I was starting to seriously doubt what I believed to be correct after this thread and it was starting to get really confusing. I decided to do some reading on the subject and also spoke to Cockers about it.

After all that:

In theory, wider = more grip, however in reality it tends to translate as more stable. Narrower = more reactive, which gives the impression of more grip, however I believe in the grand scheme it will be less.

This now makes sense. If you try the YZ2 on Astro with stock arms, you will notice that it is extremely reactive. Stick the BMAX arms on and it is far more stable and much easier to drive.

This would also make sense with the YZ2 arms on the BMAX. Less grip without making the car too sensitive.

This also explains why you found the wider arms better Neal.

Now I need to get myself some track time for testing. I do love this stuff about racing, everyday is a school day.
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  #46  
Old 17-06-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan1875 View Post
Right, I was starting to seriously doubt what I believed to be correct after this thread and it was starting to get really confusing. I decided to do some reading on the subject and also spoke to Cockers about it.

After all that:

In theory, wider = more grip, however in reality it tends to translate as more stable. Narrower = more reactive, which gives the impression of more grip, however I believe in the grand scheme it will be less.

This now makes sense. If you try the YZ2 on Astro with stock arms, you will notice that it is extremely reactive. Stick the BMAX arms on and it is far more stable and much easier to drive.

This would also make sense with the YZ2 arms on the BMAX. Less grip without making the car too sensitive.

This also explains why you found the wider arms better Neal.

Now I need to get myself some track time for testing. I do love this stuff about racing, everyday is a school day.
That's awesome, and explains it perfectly. I don't have Lee's thumbs, so less reactive is better for me ;-)
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  #47  
Old 17-06-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan1875 View Post
Shortens the wheelbase and makes the car more stable on the low grip. I had an issue with the rear collapsing on low grip when turning and once I made this modification it was much better.
I've had the rear collapsing problem also, both on low and high grip.
I had it last the other week on batley astro when I went too low on the rear shock oil (to try and improve rear end over the bumps) but the car would just randomly hook. Going back up to 400cst made the car far more consistent again. It's fine balance of oils, spring and rollbar, but when you get the problem, the car become inconsistent.
I believe it's related to diff/outdrive height.

Did you also drill the steering block arms to move the ball end in?
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  #48  
Old 17-06-2015
timoxx4 timoxx4 is offline
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Originally Posted by neallewis View Post

Did you also drill the steering block arms to move the ball end in?
What dose that do ? I have seen it done also but never could figure out what it might be for ? Would make the steering more reactive I would have thought?
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  #49  
Old 17-06-2015
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Originally Posted by timoxx4 View Post
What dose that do ? I have seen it done also but never could figure out what it might be for ? Would make the steering more reactive I would have thought?
Move Ackerman point back to where is is before the caster blocks are moved 2mm back.

I'm concerned that drilling them will weaken them?
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  #50  
Old 17-06-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neallewis View Post
Move Ackerman point back to where is is before the caster blocks are moved 2mm back.

I'm concerned that drilling them will weaken them?
I've never broken a block and been running them drilled for a few months now.

There is a web underneath from memory which keeps them pretty strong.
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  #51  
Old 17-06-2015
Allan1875 Allan1875 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neallewis View Post
I've had the rear collapsing problem also, both on low and high grip.
I had it last the other week on batley astro when I went too low on the rear shock oil (to try and improve rear end over the bumps) but the car would just randomly hook. Going back up to 400cst made the car far more consistent again. It's fine balance of oils, spring and rollbar, but when you get the problem, the car become inconsistent.
I believe it's related to diff/outdrive height.

Did you also drill the steering block arms to move the ball end in?
Yes, the arms are also drilled and made the steering far better.
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  #52  
Old 17-06-2015
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All interesting stuff, any chance of sharing a picture of where you have drilled and any other mods?
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  #53  
Old 17-06-2015
Allan1875 Allan1875 is offline
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Originally Posted by Squidzilla View Post
All interesting stuff, any chance of sharing a picture of where you have drilled and any other mods?
Will sort some tomorrow.
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  #54  
Old 18-06-2015
Allan1875 Allan1875 is offline
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Pictures as promised.

I had the block machined and then I dremelled away the sharp edge to allow the block move side to side. I also dremelled the block to allow it to go even further back than 2mm.

With the steering arm mod, please note that the titanium turnbuckles are too short and just pull out the ball cup. You will see from the pic for the steering arms I am using kit, although these can be substituted for titanium YZ2 turnbuckles.

Edit: Noticed it's not very clear in the picture of the block fitted. There are 2 x 1mm spacers shown, and at the front there is 1 x 1mm and 1 x 0.8mm spacer. I will be switching the 2 of these to get the 2mm back at the front though.
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Last edited by Allan1875; 18-06-2015 at 01:26 PM.
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  #55  
Old 28-06-2015
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Can anyone explain the bmax 4 steering link either front or back?

I notice on lees set up its shows back yet pics show feont position??

I presume ackerman setting? I know on yz2 its a big tuning aid
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  #56  
Old 29-06-2015
Allan1875 Allan1875 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDG 40 View Post
Can anyone explain the bmax 4 steering link either front or back?

I notice on lees set up its shows back yet pics show feont position??

I presume ackerman setting? I know on yz2 its a big tuning aid
Front = more aggressive steering
Back = calmer steering

Lee changes his dependent on where he is racing but majority of the time its in the front. I always run mine in the front now as the BMAX is fairly low on steering as standard.
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  #57  
Old 07-10-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam F View Post
I've never broken a block and been running them drilled for a few months now.

There is a web underneath from memory which keeps them pretty strong.
How far from the original hole should the new hole be sited?
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  #58  
Old 22-01-2017
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Someone tried the DJC on the Bmax4?
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  #59  
Old 11-02-2017
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Waiting for the setup sheet from Ryan Maifield
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  #60  
Old 12-02-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dikke hond View Post
Waiting for the setup sheet from Ryan Maifield
You will wait quite some time if for a Bmax4 III one.
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