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Old 24-07-2014
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Default 210 V2 front wishbones on a V1

Does anyone know if this works or wiould I need to replace other parts at the same time??

Thanks
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Old 24-07-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbashing View Post
Does anyone know if this works or wiould I need to replace other parts at the same time??

Thanks
If you want to change the front arms you also need the new front shock bodies and new front shock shafts, and the new type-B spring perches as you may need the -2 one to obtain the proper ride height, and the new front tower is nice too but i dont think it is needed

Hope this helps
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Old 25-07-2014
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You can go down two routes:

A. You can use the new arms and buy the 1.5mm shorter shock body and 1.5mm shorter shock shafts.

B. You can use the new arms and use 3mm limiters inside the old type shocks. Do check if your car can still bottom out properly, but it saves a lot of money - in the end you can always decide to purchase the shorter shock parts later on.

Afaik the new shock tower is indeed not necessary, however I find the new rear tower nicer than the old one: The shocks are less exposed as it's lower, it's beefier so shouldn't hit your motor plate anymore and it feels as if the rear end keeps it's composure better through corners (no deep rolling, less weird snappiness). So I'd try the rear one (do run 3-4mm limiters in the rear end if the chassis doesn't limit the car's droop), and it'll give you the chance to put the new one on the front as well
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Old 25-07-2014
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That's some great advice thanks.

I think I might try the idea of limiting the shocks as buying new bodies is a bit pricey.

I can feel an order coming!
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Old 25-07-2014
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I dont think the car will bottom out properly with the existing bodys and shafts as its pretty close on a standard v2 when running a chunky tyre like mini pins or a rib, its fine with the low profile cut stagger but you could try that first
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Old 26-07-2014
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@av: That might be a problem, though I've got just about 2-3mm of stroke left on my bottomed out V1. Also, you might be able to remove some material off the rubber external limiter (or even remove it entirely). If you do this it is very important to check the piston doesn't move against the shock cap, but I recall on the front shocks there's some room left inside the damper to remove those stoppers altogether
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Old 16-08-2014
Haldenby81 Haldenby81 is offline
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Anyone got the part number for the 3mm limiters please as gone to put the new front shocks on aswell and couldn't find the limiters to get them also do I need anything different for the rear a arms on the rtr? Thanks
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Old 16-08-2014
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You have the new shock bodies and arms? if you do you dont need any limiters! I think the new rears just fit straight on!
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Old 16-08-2014
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I'm running V2 arms with V1 shocks and limiters - but found that you also need to switch to the smaller hole pistons (can't remember the size) because otherwise you end up very underdamped. Works nicely after that though and a lot cheaper than new bodies and shafts.
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Old 17-08-2014
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No not got new shocks I ment the a arm brought the new front and rears put the rears straight on but couldn't find the 3mm limiters to do the front so need the part number for them please from those that's gone that rout thanks
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Old 17-08-2014
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I didn't buy any specifically as I had some in my pit box already so can't give you a part number. Any suitably sized spacers will do - they don't have to be Durango specific.
At a pinch you can make a temporary limiter out of some nitro fuel tubing. Its not very precise and tends to split after a while but will do until you find the right spacers.
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