recommended 210 upgrades and mods

[johnnygibbon]

allthough there is good set up advice and pics of upgrades ect i wanted to start a thread to see what was the most poular upgrades and or recommended mods for the 210 and what weak points it may have
the main parts i think may need upgrading are

.front hubs/spindles - saw one break of a crash on some doubles
.shock towers - look strong but carbon towers seem poular
.rear hubs - do they hold up well or is alloy the way forward
.gear diff or ball diff - most people seem to be running ball
.extra weight - is it neccesary and where should it go
.what front tyres - for outdoor astro as a good starting point
i will be running yellow mini spikes on the rear but unsure what front to use .. thinking staggers or slim spikes .. am i right ?

i no these cars are pretty damm tough generally but i would like to make mine a little more bomb proof so its got a better chance of surviving my 2wd efforts
but dont want to spend a fortune on uneccesary upgrades cos these cars seem to run dam well as standard but any little mods or tips that help are well appreciated

i will be running big 5200 lipo stick packs and full size servo in mine so i dont no if extra weight will be needed

thanks in advance

[Gunthar Guntharsën]

The car is really tough. I still havent broken anything and my car is box stock. I've cleaned the diff once in I guess a hundred or more runs and flipped the diff rings.

I've replaced the the ballcups with rpm cups and tc5 ballstud. The cups were fine at first but after 2 months they start popping off.

In mid motor configuration the car needs a lot more weight in the rear (imo), that's hard to achieve with a full lipo. I'm hoping somebody will make a conversion to change the battery layout to side by side saddles.

Havent ran the car in rear motor config, but it will need weight in the front. Neumann's car at the reedy race had a 60gram brass piece in the front.

[mattr]

Just weight in the front.
Cream does an under servo weight, and there are a few others doing "heavy" components for the front.
Just have a poke round on the forum.

I just broke my first 210 bit. The steering plate.

Other than that, the only thing i can think of is to convert to the metal shock stand offs, as opposed to the plastic+bolts that the car comes with.

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95403

[jamiekerr14]

when I had my 210 all I broke was X2 front towers on 1st test day. That is all

Hop ups I put on it

Ackula Racing Front/Rear towers and battery strap
Cream battery weight Kit
10g under the steering ack plate
AE SC10 Gear diff

Car was spot on and built like a tank.

[Big G]

All I broke was the steering plate which was replaced with a Atomic Carbon one.

I've fitted the alu shock stands for easier adjustment.

[NeilRalph77]

Some of the factory driver's are running smaller spurs so they can get the motor/weight further back guess that negates the idea of putting weight in the front, but as always it's down to personal preferance. Rear towers, RF toe block's (including balls) and front axles would be on my spares list.

[losichris]

i would 100% get a CF steering rack, or the ally one off Nick which is 15g i think. i broke 2 of the kit ones on nothing

[Si Coe]

I'm sure the upright was down to the cold more than anything else.

I've fitted the carbon steering parts as the plastic ones don't look that strong.
Otherwise have a look over Matt's car as its got almost everything going on it - I only fitted the bits I figured were worth bothering.

Most people are running the ball diff, but thats cos it comes with one and very few places are selling the gear diff!

[Streetfighter-r]

Originally Posted by Si Coe

I'm sure the upright was down to the cold more than anything else.

I've fitted the carbon steering parts as the plastic ones don't look that strong.
Otherwise have a look over Matt's car as its got almost everything going on it - I only fitted the bits I figured were worth bothering.

Most people are running the ball diff, but thats cos it comes with one and very few places are selling the gear diff!

Re gear diff, what is Durango up to? A revised version following wide discussions around being too tight?

Good call on the carbon steering plate, kit ver feels way too flimsy!

Just waiting for the Akula cf towers as mention earlier - this forum is hurting my wallet, I foresee £1k set-up (working from scratch ..)

[hotrodchris]

carbon towers and steering and cream weights,(battery, under servo and rear weight) car is awesome and built like a tank!
Still to try a geared diff!
Upgrade the ball diff to ceramic balls!

[budfish]

Originally Posted by hotrodchris

Upgrade the ball diff to ceramic balls!

Unfortunately he was round yesterday afternoon at buds balls hq!!

[johnnygibbon]

Nice one fellas I think the steering rack will have to be changed and I've always been a fan of carbon shock towers
Might have to try atomic carbon bits there stuff looks great
So it seems this car is as tough as I thought it was and doesn't need to many extras

But it does look damn good with em on
A bit of bling never hurt any one
Just the wallet

[cigbunt]

number one thing i think should be changed is the ball cups, as stock cups are just shi*t and pop off!

[mattr]

weird, i drive like a loon (ask onekiwi) and very very rarely pop a ball cup (HD), maybe once or twice a month, usually after slamming into a wall at full speed......

[cigbunt]

Originally Posted by mattr

weird, i drive like a loon (ask onekiwi) and very very rarely pop a ball cup (HD), maybe once or twice a month, usually after slamming into a wall at full speed......

i changed mine when i built it.. never had it pop off...

[TonyM]

Added:
Cream front and rear shock towers (I broke one of each of the standard)
Cream rear battery block - more rear weight
Cream rear brace - more rear weight
Cream knurled nuts for the battery strap (bling really, but nice)
TD Geared Diff - superb compared to the balled diff
Atomic steering plate (broke a standard)
Nick's rear camber link plate
410 rear shock mounts for both front and rear shocks
Titanium front camber links (most likely to bend)
60g brass plate weight under the rear half of the lipo

[neil_p]

The only thing I have broke is the plastic rear front hinge pin holder. Little surprised as it didn't need much to do it, but since the pins run on balls they are easily lost, so it is a double whammy!

I bought the aluminium ones from rcjunky (he is on here a few threads down), and they are excellent.

I have done a spur in and have snapped 2 spur covers which must have been bad luck. Replaced the spur for a RW one.

Running a 66g under lipo weight and the car felt nice and stable for me.

Nick Gurnell pistons feel good on astro to.

Hope that helps.

[mof]

Originally Posted by Gunthar Guntharsën

In mid motor configuration the car needs a lot more weight in the rear (imo), that's hard to achieve with a full lipo. I'm hoping somebody will make a conversion to change the battery layout to side by side saddles.

Havent ran the car in rear motor config, but it will need weight in the front. Neumann's car at the reedy race had a 60gram brass piece in the front.

Neumann had a lot of weight in the front (+65g) in mid motor config, too, at "off road wars"...

[johnnygibbon]

Ok I'm on for some carbon goodies this week
I might make myself some weight ballast to experiment with on track
Car has ceramics in the diff
Feeling confident in it and it hasn't even hit the track yet
What tyres seem popular for the front wheels
I'm thinking of going for a set of staggers on the front or maybe spikes
Cheers for all the help people

[rcjunky]

All my locals here in Canada run aluminum steering racks and rf pivots because the stock ones are flimsy, hence why I now sell them