recommended 210 upgrades and mods

[hottuna]

The stock ball cups are great, no need to upgrade.
From my experience with lots of training and some races with the 210:

Steering rack is a bit weak, shock towers, at least the rear one tend to give up easily.
Other when that it's a very rigid car that needs no further upgrades.
Don't get tempted to buy all all the "must upgrade parts" you read on the net. The 210 is a very well build car out of the box.

[s22jgs]

Originally Posted by hottuna

The stock ball cups are great, no need to upgrade.
From my experience with lots of training and some races with the 210:

Steering rack is a bit weak, shock towers, at least the rear one tend to give up easily.
Other when that it's a very rigid car that needs no further upgrades.
Don't get tempted to by all all the "must upgrade parts" you read on the net. The 210 is a very well build car out of the box.

got to agree. seems very good out of the box. ran mine for first time yesterday. No upgrades, no weight and its spot on, just needs the right setup for your driving.

[av4625]

got to disagree on the ball cups built them as it said on the td website and when the car grip rolled and didnt hit anything they where coming off so annoying rpm ones are brill and you cant adjust the standard ones without them popping of

[Skye]

In my experience the essential changes are similar to what has already been said...

I have changed :

Front shock tower to the Cream CF one with the alloy ball stud holders. This is the best option in my opinion as it enables you to keep the ball studs in their original position.

Rear shock tower to Akula CF version.

Steering rack to Akula CF version.

Ball studs to Losi ones. I have Losi 22 cups, studs and turnbuckles on the front and haven't had any problems since. I've left the kit ones on the back, but up front they were hopeless. They came off far too regularly and also used to slip on the turnbuckles on impact so the camber was forever ending up way out by the end of a race.

Since I have made these changes I haven't had any further problems.

[s22jgs]

Originally Posted by av4625

and you cant adjust the standard ones without them popping of

ure not building them properly then. they just need alot of prep work. in and out at least 5 times, each time with a clean off and fresh grease.

they will then turn no problem at all

[cigbunt]

Originally Posted by s22jgs

ure not building them properly then. they just need alot of prep work. in and out at least 5 times, each time with a clean off and fresh grease.

they will then turn no problem at all

You can adjust the stock cups you just need hold a driver in each ball stud then use you spanner to adjust...

Or you can just simply change them (in my eyes its well worth it as its one less thing to worry about)

[s22jgs]

Originally Posted by cigbunt

You can adjust the stock cups you just need hold a driver in each ball stud then use you spanner to adjust...

Or you can just simply change them (in my eyes its well worth it as its one less thing to worry about)

lol as i said, not enough prep put in... mine turn fine without locking them with drivers.

I do however fully expect the cups to loosen in true durango style and start popping off before long.

[Skye]

Originally Posted by s22jgs

ure not building them properly then. they just need alot of prep work. in and out at least 5 times, each time with a clean off and fresh grease.

they will then turn no problem at all

In my opinion that is not a reasonable expectation to have to go to such lengths!

If you want to see how ball studs should be, look at the Kyosho RB5. I screwed them straight on, the adjusted perfectly, held their position, and never popped off once in 6 months of racing.

I then bought a 210, screwed them in and out 3 times, applied grease to the threads, and still couldn't adjust them without a driver stuck in each end or they would pop off. Then after they had popped off in a race for about the third time in as many race meetings they got binned! Problem solved!!

[Si Coe]

Two people cracked AC rear towers in accidents at the same corner, whilst the plastics faired fine, so it looks like carbon (at least for the rear) is not better at all.

[av4625]

Originally Posted by cigbunt

You can adjust the stock cups you just need hold a driver in each ball stud then use you spanner to adjust...

Or you can just simply change them (in my eyes its well worth it as its one less thing to worry about)

i think that its silly that you have hold drivers in them cause you nearly need 2 people i think i agree with the changing thing i did it on 410 w8in for them tom arrive for 210

[Alan Reeves]

Originally Posted by av4625

i think that its silly that you have hold drivers in them cause you nearly need 2 people i think i agree with the changing thing i did it on 410 w8in for them tom arrive for 210

had to read that 3 times to understand it!

One of my ball studs went through a spell of popping off during racing but they have now survived the last 3 meetings intact, they can be a pain though and do pop off during adjustment.
Might use some Losi ones if I get around to it, ....although maybe not, maybe they have saved other things from breaking by popping off?

[Alan Reeves]

Originally Posted by Si Coe

Two people cracked AC rear towers in accidents at the same corner, whilst the plastics faired fine, so it looks like carbon (at least for the rear) is not better at all.

That wouldn't be by smacking into the wall after the straight would it Si? A few in your heat did smack it pretty hard!! no names of course

[Si Coe]

Yes that wall! Whoever moved that track marker totally messed the flow of that corner, so people kept smacking it. Of course most people only did it the once, then remembered

[Alan Reeves]

....Most people

Someone who wasn't racing wanted a bit of entertainment

It suited me with my 10.5 in as it effectively shortened the straight meaning you needed to BRAKE earlier before hitting the slippy stuff and watching that corner in your heat meant I knew what was coming!

[johnnygibbon]

Thanks again for the info
My car allready has the metal shock mounts and ceramic diff
But otherwise ran box standard all day as did another 210 with plastic towers and normal steering
I ended up with cut staggers on the front and yellow mini spikes on tge rear they worked fantastically on the carpet and surprisingly on the slippy floor almost as well
Qualified 3rd in the a final
Gotta say I am very impressed with this car on both performance and build quality
And it's fantastic to be back using metric tools and screws again
Lovin the Durango

[johnnygibbon]

Double post on iPhone sorry

[av4625]

Originally Posted by johnnygibbon

Thanks again for the info
My car allready has the metal shock mounts and ceramic diff
But otherwise ran box standard all day as did another 210 with plastic towers and normal steering
I ended up with cut staggers on the front and yellow mini spikes on tge rear they worked fantastically on the carpet and surprisingly on the slippy floor almost as well
Qualified 3rd in the a final
Gotta say I am very impressed with this car on both performance and build quality
And it's fantastic to be back using metric tools and screws again
Lovin the Durango

where did you get the metal shock mounts? rear ones?

[Si Coe]

Originally Posted by av4625

where did you get the metal shock mounts? rear ones?

In Johnny's case his car came with it as its 2nd hand.
Virtually all those running with the metal mounts have a 410 somewhere they nicked the mounts off!

[mattr]

Originally Posted by Si Coe

In Johnny's case his car came with it as its 2nd hand.
Virtually all those running with the metal mounts have a 410 somewhere they nicked the mounts off!

nah, I bought some more. Still using the 410 mounts on the 410.......

[AiR]

I just got my DEX210 ready and went to my local track. Broke two(!) stock rear towers on first battery very easily without big crashes. Not very happy with it.
They broke from the very same spot, which is one of the bulkiest spots of the tower.



Ordered cf rear tower. Thinking about buying cf steering rack and front tower.