|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Motor moving
Having a problem with my motor moving in my B4 when I have a crash. Tried different screws and tried locktite on them but it's still shifting. Any tips?
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Don't crash just kidding
Crank them up tighter not kidding Stu
__________________
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
make sure you're using some decent washers with decent screws. Then use a decent allen driver too nip them up really tight.
I got some of these maybe 8 years ago and they are still great. (couldn't find a uk link, sorry) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lunsford-R...2/221591140819
__________________
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Have a look at your motor too
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Decent screws and washers. I've gone to m3 bolts with 2.5mm hex heads in a capped washer, far better than the button heads it had before! Similar to the Lunsford ones above.
Make sure the motor plate is flat and clean, Make sure the motor end bell is also flat and clean, make sure any features on the end bell don't catch on the motor plate (some of them have bearing housings that stick out) |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
I've always used the Tamiya motor mount fibre type large washer plate thingy...that fits between the motor and mounting plate...on my Associated cars.
It really works well ( like a large , motor size, fibre washer ) it is a tamiya part. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
As already stated washers are the key to any good tight fitting.
__________________
Schumacher KC Schumacher L1 Schumacher XLS Tamiya Lunchbox Tamiya Top-Force TD SCT https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/ |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
These are the same as the Lunsford ones by the looks of it, very good as we'll.
http://l-m-racing.co.uk/products/ind...er_name=Lmr017
__________________
I live with fear everyday....sometimes she lets me race!!!! Schumacher F1..The original KF. TLR 5.0 AC .. FORSALE |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
After checking your motor plate is flat and the screws have washers under the heads...
Get some 600 grit wet 'n dry. Lightly sand the surface of your motor plate and the motor mounting plate. All you are trying to do is to make the surface matt, not remove the anodising. It should look lightly scratched all over. Now put the motor back. Anodising is a low-friction surface. Sometimes, however hard you do up the screws the motor will shift. By taking the surface off it you increase the friction you can generate between the surfaces so the motor stays put in a crash. Old 12th scale trick - works every time! HTH |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Cheers guys, several ideas to try
|
|
|