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  #1  
Old 19-02-2013
plummers plummers is offline
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Default club to gt12 conversion?

hey everyone, have a ageing v12 club i once used for oval and fancy a crack at gt12 racing. question is what do i need, is the ali chassis up to it? do i need a diff? any advise welcome!!plummers
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Old 19-02-2013
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furball85 furball85 is offline
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diff is prefferred but not essential although if you do buy 1 then get the schumacher version, the ally chassis is okay to have ago but i think you would benefit from either the ce chassis or cec, also with circuit you are allowed additive unlike oval, harder fronts i imagine as well
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Old 19-02-2013
oakey4 oakey4 is offline
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I have a mardave carbon car, alley ride height pod, good servo, for us, diff is a must, mardave one is ok if you can be bother to mess about with it, saying that I've just ordered a Schumacher diff, just ask for any more tips on set up etc..
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Old 19-02-2013
JimboJames1972 JimboJames1972 is offline
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Hi,
A couple of questions for you - what budget do you have, what size track will you be running on, what rules does your local club have (especially regarding cells and motors) and what time scale are you looking at to get fully setup?

Diff. More necessary on small, tight twisty tracks than open sweeping tracks. If your track is small and tight then not having a diff will be a disadvantage. If your club is larger and if you are on a tight budget you can save the cost for later. Mardave diffs are just fine - one of mine is over a year old now, had never been cleaned or rebuilt and still works just fine!

Alloy chassis. Perfectly fine to get you going but a new GRP one might offer you more grip. Carbon one will be slightly stiffer and both offer useful front tuning options.

Damper. A great upgrade option over a "standard" alloy chassis kit. This really smooths the car down, especially when combined with a diff. You can run one on the alloy chassis but you will need to drill one hole in the chassis for the damper post to mount on to and another in the plastic pod.

Adjustable pod. My thinking is that being able to adjust your ride height independently of the rear pod droop angle is extremely important. The alloy pod is a relatively expensive upgrade, but well worth it!

Power. If your budget and club rules allow it, go for a LiPo/brushless setup over NiMH/brushed. Again, a relatively large outlay but lower maintenance and running costs.

Hope this helps. Let us know your budget/time/club rules and we can advices more. Alternatively, PM me your contact number and I can call you.

James
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  #5  
Old 19-02-2013
plummers plummers is offline
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Hi boys, thank you for your quick responses and advice. I have about 100 or so spend, as a tc racer I have most of the expensive stuff like radio gear and motor. Taken your advice and ordered a chassis and diff from mardave. The track I race at is Newbury rc club. Quite big really, nice long straight. Just need to source a 1s Lipo and Speedo now. That may have to wait until next month. can't wait for some mardave fun! Thanks again. Plummers
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  #6  
Old 20-02-2013
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furball85 furball85 is offline
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to get it going the core pace esc will work fine however for £8 more you can get the hw 60 amp which is a better esc, 1s lipo there are some good turnigy ones going on ebay brand new for £28 but to be truthful nick at demon products does the intellects which are better but are £12 more
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