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  #21  
Old 07-04-2012
canon67 canon67 is offline
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Using the Bmax front arms did not change the wheel base or whidth just the shock location in the bottom of the arm.

Den.
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  #22  
Old 08-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bastos View Post
Hello,

Have you done some adjustments or specific tooling to fit the Team C dogbones in front and rear ?

Front cvd axl: Team C. T04025
Rear Cvd axl: Team C. T02058

And, using Bmax4 arms...does it change the wheels base or/and width?

Lower arms: B-max BM-008R/BM-008F

Bastos
Only thing I had to do was a little (very little!) dremling inside the rear hub.
Everything else fitted right on!

In about 3 weeks I will try to fit the B-max2 rear axles in the rear, maybe the fits right on
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  #23  
Old 07-05-2012
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The B-max2 axles did not fit right on, only the wheel axl part fit.

So I drive the Team c part #T04027 bone with the Yokomo B-max2 #B2-010RA, they fits perfect together:-)
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  #24  
Old 18-05-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naushad View Post
Thanks Denis... I will let you know.

I'm making electric adjustments to the bx I have now. I also need to fiddle with the shocks.

I'm sure I'll get cracking on the bx you've sent me soon enough!

Naushad
Got any pic of your bx yet? :-)
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  #25  
Old 19-05-2012
Naushad Naushad is offline
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Yeah I will get some sorted out soon...no problem!

Nothing special about the setup...more or less
stock!

Just finished refitting electrics and new tyres.
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  #26  
Old 22-05-2012
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[QUOTE=Arnefles;652603]The B-max2 axles did not fit right on, only the wheel axl part fit.

So I drive the Team c part #T04027/TU0233 bone with the Yokomo B-max2 #B2-010RA, they fits perfect together but the car gets a bit wide so you have to put a shim on the inside of the hub.

But now I tryed the B-max4 axl (BM-010RAC) and it fits even better, and now you also can use the Losi 22 rims with a hex if you want-it fits very well :-)

In the end: Team C #TU0233 + Yokomo BM-010RAC :-)
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  #27  
Old 15-06-2012
Bastos Bastos is offline
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In pictures…That's mine…

There is a long time I have to do it…re-furbushing my BX with my personal « touch »…

We can not see it but Motor and batteries are forward about 7 mm…chassis, top deck ( Thx Fiberlite ) and belts ( Thx BANDO ) have change for more steering and traction.


Sometime we are « fashion victim »…but sometime it is really necessary…BX « Bigbored »


Use of « BX World » camber link support with additional point location to make the camber link longer to get more « front traction » and steering at low speed.


Speedo ( RS Pro ) and receiver on a same side ( for well balance R/L ) on carbon plate…the access to pinion is more complicated…so…leave two screws and you have a complete access to adjust the pinion & spur .


As the Lipo are lighter…two brass plate ( 1,5 mm thickness ) are inserted under each for the circonstancy => 50gr more for each saddle.


Rear Shock support « Special Bradders » with intermediate point location to adjust the rear grip perfectly…




Uploaded with ImageShack.us
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  #28  
Old 15-06-2012
Naushad Naushad is offline
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Looks great!! The big bore suit it. I hope it handles well!

Your shock towers look moulded together. How did you achieve that?
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  #29  
Old 15-06-2012
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Just cyanocrilate on the edge. Apply multilayers of cyano to get this result...but between each layer of cyano...sand the edge ( 400-600 ) ...at the end you've got something "round" like the photos.
The advantage is, when you scratch the edge of your towers, you can sand it again and repair it without damaging the carbon.
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  #30  
Old 16-06-2012
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The car look's great, nice finish!

I noticed you moved your batteries...

How much weight did you put on, anything between the batteries or just arround?
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  #31  
Old 16-06-2012
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I did also try the big bore from the B-max, but I think my car handles better over here with the orginal shocks.

But I didn't do to much research... ;-)
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  #32  
Old 18-06-2012
Bastos Bastos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnefles View Post
How much weight did you put on, anything between the batteries or just arround?
I put 50gr but under each saddle
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  #33  
Old 19-06-2012
Eraser Eraser is offline
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My Special BX. Hope to get tested it soon
Attached Images
File Type: jpg BX1.jpg (193.8 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg BX2.jpg (250.5 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg BX3.jpg (179.8 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpg BX4.jpg (173.2 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg BX5.jpg (197.8 KB, 35 views)
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  #34  
Old 19-06-2012
Naushad Naushad is offline
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Hey Andreas!!!

How are you doing man!

So moving to the Bx...what's prompted this?

Nice car. Like the carbon effect diff cover!

Are those yokomo big bores? Why have you used a plastic front shock tower?

What electric setup are you using?
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  #35  
Old 20-06-2012
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Interesting... Never seen b-max shocktower on the bx!
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  #36  
Old 20-06-2012
Bastos Bastos is offline
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Hello guys

I think that the big bore use by Eraser are from "Team C or Ansmann"...to be confirm
For the front shock tower...it's a nice choice against "carbon" breakage...

Cheers
Bastos
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  #37  
Old 21-06-2012
Reo Reo is offline
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you should turn around those screws on front shock.. but intersting to see if that tower is ok.
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  #38  
Old 21-06-2012
mamour mamour is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bastos View Post
Hello guys

I think that the big bore use by Eraser are from "Team C or Ansmann"...to be confirm
For the front shock tower...it's a nice choice against "carbon" breakage...

Cheers
Bastos
i think too it's teamC big bore (or ansmann)

i've received my MR4 Bx yesterday, i think i'll post some pics in a few days
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  #39  
Old 21-06-2012
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Good job Bastos! That car looks really Langlet'ified!
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  #40  
Old 21-06-2012
Eraser Eraser is offline
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Hi

Yes, the Big Bores are from Team C., got no Yokomo Big Bores.
-Front Arms are HB D4
-B-Max front Shock towers are much cheaper as the carbon ones
-Special rear design...

I have also an Yokomo MR4-BX like new and a Worlds Edition


@Naushad......My Race Car is still the ACADEMY SB-V3
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