2wd diff issues

tdi250 · #1 12-06-2012

Does anyone know if ansmann/team C do anything like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Losi-TL...-/390335361176

This kit looks as though its very similar to the ansmann 2wd diff stuff and also wondered if i could just use the parts from this directly. Has anyone tried to use the TLR 22 bits into the Ansmann diff?

I've read the posts about how to get the 2wd diff sorted but wondered if this would be an easier option?

tdi250 · #2 12-06-2012

Sorry i should have posted this link instead as it gives a proper picture of the parts!
http://www.jespares.com/electric-mod...tegory_id=1340

metalmickey0 · #3 12-06-2012

Team C do the uprated diff parts as i now got them fitted. Kevlar main gear and tuff nylon idlers. Made mine nice and quiet as well , lurvly as dont like noisy cars.

tdi250 · #4 12-06-2012

Mickey,

I'm actually running a team c, tc02c so already have nylon idlers and kevlar spur! Was hoping for a quick fix to my very gritty diff!

Robbiejuk · #5 12-06-2012

Best thing to do would be to fit ceramic balls as the standard ones are not the best. Make sure the plates are flat by grinding them down on some wet and dry paper.

Make sure when yo rebuild it to use some good quality black grease on the thrust race and some better quality diff grease than the stuff that comes in the kit. Build the diff correctly and it will last for ages between re-builds.

If you would like some ceramic diff balls give me a shout as I have loads of packas availible to sell at a good price

I don't believe Team C do a re-build kit. So you would have to purchase the items seperatley.

tdi250 · #6 12-06-2012

Hi robbie,
I've got some ceramic balls on order and have wet and dried the plates already.
I've read that some people consider the spring and thrust bearing to be part of the problem too.
I guess I'll give the new balls ago and put some black grease on the thrust bearing and see how much difference it makes.

Robbiejuk · #7 12-06-2012

They will make a load of difference, trust me. Just make sure when you are building it tighten a bit at a time and testing it for slip, otherwise if you don't do it gradually and tighten it right up an then back it off it will force the balls into the diff plates and pit them making your nicely flattened plates worthless. Also make sure you do a decent run in on the differential before you hit the track.

With regards to the spring an nut, I have never had any problems but if you do change the spring make sure to compress it with a pair of pliers a few times before you stick it in otherwise you will have a diff that you can't tighten anymore but will be constantly slipping on track. The thrust bearings are fine as long as they are properly lubricated.

tdi250 · #8 12-06-2012

Cool, all useful info thanks mate!

Mad-Wolfie · #9 13-06-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robbiejuk

They will make a load of difference, trust me. Just make sure when you are building it tighten a bit at a time and testing it for slip, otherwise if you don't do it gradually and tighten it right up an then back it off it will force the balls into the diff plates and pit them making your nicely flattened plates worthless. Also make sure you do a decent run in on the differential before you hit the track.

With regards to the spring an nut, I have never had any problems but if you do change the spring make sure to compress it with a pair of pliers a few times before you stick it in otherwise you will have a diff that you can't tighten anymore but will be constantly slipping on track. The thrust bearings are fine as long as they are properly lubricated.

Robbie is spot on,

black moly grease on the thrust bearing & when building the diff, you want to tighten it just enough that the diff itself doesn't slip. put 2 screwdrivers or bars through the outdrives to hold them in place & see if the diff gear can rotate by hand & keep tightening a bit at a time until it won't slip.

Also ceramic balls are the way to go as is some sanding down of the diff plates - some people say wet & dry with a drop of toothpaste also works on the diff plates & also the slipper plates. more so on the diff plates as they are pressed, so come out slightly concave shaped, it's only a smidge (not even enough the eye can probably see) but it's uneven enough to upset the diff.

tdi250 · #10 13-06-2012

Thanks again guys!

Got some Associated black grease on the way and my ceramic balls should be here tomorrow too!

Can't wait to see how much difference it makes cos the car is pretty damn good even witht the diff issues!

Next proper test will be at the next 2wd midwets regional at Hinckley!

adey · #11 13-06-2012

Is there a gear diff available ?. Also where are the pics of the team cars ?

adey · #12 13-06-2012

If not, as I intend on trying a x2c I will flatten my diff plates using a ceramic sharpening stone from spyderco knife co. I tried tdi250's diff and it certainly could be better but i am sure he will sort it. He already worried a few guys at our local club with his x2c. Looking forward too seeing how I get on with one.

SamRCRacing · #13 13-06-2012

I have heard that the b-fast diff makes a big improvement, I know someone who hasn't needed to rebuild it for 6 months and still as smooth as new.

marcel · #14 13-06-2012

My diffs are smooth and loose with no slip.
Al i dith as they also do with the b fast kits
Is use a head gasket from a 3,5cc nitro motor and place that on the outdrive before you place the diff ring.
That way the diff ring doesnt slip and you get the right presure on the diff balls and plates.

tdi250 · #15 13-06-2012

Marcel,
Can you explain that again for me! Do you cut out the right shape from the head gasket material to go between the outdrive and diff plate?

marcel · #16 14-06-2012

I used a head gasket that is just the right size to.fit direckt on the outdrive.
Or somtimes you need.to do a smal dremeling to the inner diameter of the gasket. Outer diameter is spot on so almost a direckt fit
_____ diff ring
_____ 3.5 cc coper head gasket.
____
| | . outdrives..

Hope this helps. If not i try to place a foto

Robbiejuk · #17 15-06-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcel

I used a head gasket that is just the right size to.fit direckt on the outdrive.
Or somtimes you need.to do a smal dremeling to the inner diameter of the gasket. Outer diameter is spot on so almost a direckt fit
_____ diff ring
_____ 3.5 cc coper head gasket.
____
| | . outdrives..

Hope this helps. If not i try to place a foto

Will this not make the diff plate stick out to far or do you grind them thinner? I have a Bfast diff kit in and always thought that the copper shim was to make up for the thinner Associated plates that they use?

daveyboi1973 · #18 15-06-2012

in a word no.\i use head shims from a hpi .21 nitro engine on my diff.They are very thin,and dont make the pltes stick out to far.They work really welll and reduces the amount of needed to tighten the diff.I just fixed them on with a little super glue to the outdrive faces,then build the diff as normal.

marcel · #19 15-06-2012

I dont glue them just use some greas to stick them on