Lazer zxr

[Welshy40]

My chassis was pulled off the mold yesterday, ive a slight mod to make and they will cut next week.

[Welshy40]

Heres the picture of it off the mold

[HKS_TRD]

Wow, I don't just want one I NEED one (or maybe two lol)

The tub I have is twill weave so looks like a zebra unlike the new one

Was your original tub twill weave?

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

Wow, I don't just want one I NEED one (or maybe two lol)

The tub I have is twill weave so looks like a zebra unlike the new one

Was your original tub twill weave?

Unsure, stephen will know as he has it. I opted to try the current chassis weave for looks more than anything as it will match the rest of the car

[kek23k]

Looks sweet, I defo want one too

[HKS_TRD]

Do the LA-208 ball diff screws for the ZX-5 work on the ZX-R ball diffs?

[HKS_TRD]

James

I looked at your previous pic of your original now broken chassis and that one was twill weave

I think I am going to get two of these tubs, one in the new weave and one in the old twill weave so it looks like the vintage tubs

I agree with what you mean about the tub needing to match the rest of the car the newer battery straps on my old tub are a mismatch and it looks a little odd

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

Do the LA-208 ball diff screws for the ZX-5 work on the ZX-R ball diffs?

Dont think so

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

James

I looked at your previous pic of your original now broken chassis and that one was twill weave

I think I am going to get two of these tubs, one in the new weave and one in the old twill weave so it looks like the vintage tubs

I agree with what you mean about the tub needing to match the rest of the car the newer battery straps on my old tub are a mismatch and it looks a little odd

Im doing the same as we but decided if this worked and was happy with it id race the chassis

[HKS_TRD]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Dont think so

I just read the ZX5 manual online and the dimensions in there seem to be the same as the screw in the WBD5 set so I'm going to give it a try

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Im doing the same as we but decided if this worked and was happy with it id race the chassis

I have an upper deck in twill weave that came with my tub so I might try and finish that car with all twill parts, though if I did another open gearbox I'd be short of belt tensioners.

I might have to sell the tub I have here, I don't need three or maybe run that one and have the other two as shelfers

[Welshy40]

Dan,

Sounds good to me.

[Welshy40]

Ok news flash, hopefully my chassis will be cut tomorrow. Im finalising the Lipo tray at the moment and must apologise if this is not to your liking. The tray is in the TRF511 format as its easier to distribute the weight where as having the solid oblong format tray means less weight can be put down the centre of the chassis.

Ive based the centre block on both my narrower ZXS chassis and the wider version such as my prototype and have been advised that so long as you specify what chassis you require this on Stephen can change the dimensions accordingly for the block in the middle. You can double side the centre block on the chassis if needed.

Now I can use the brass cell hole weights and a solid brass plate ontop and also some rude bitz brass plates in the middle for the TRF511 to make the weight up to make the car more agressive on carpet, yes its heavy but the car doesnt get grip roll and means I can drive flat out more in and out of corners.

Opinions are always welcome. I have designed a Lipo tray as well but the drawing needs a tidy up should you still require that and will post it soon

[Welshy40]

Final drawing, this is the finalised lipo tray design. Its going to be 3mm thick so if you require it thinner such as the usual 2.5mm please make sure you let them know.

[rondoolaa]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Final drawing, this is the finalised lipo tray design. Its going to be 3mm thick so if you require it thinner such as the usual 2.5mm please make sure you let them know.

will you have to buy it pre drilled etc or would it be possible to buy as is in the picture at the top of the page, no holes, no cuts

[Migs]

Looks good welshy!!

Roondoola, if fibre lyte are making them then normally they're happy to delete holes and slots. Eg they were happy to take out the gearbox hole in the astute chassis they made me and I deleted a number of holes I didn't need. I'd be removing all the battery slots in this thing.

[HKS_TRD]

I'm a bit lost with the centre piece and how it all fits together, I need to see it all assembled I guess

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by rondoolaa

will you have to buy it pre drilled etc or would it be possible to buy as is in the picture at the top of the page, no holes, no cuts

You can have the chassis anyway you want it. The design is based on the very first tub and just sharing with you all.

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

I'm a bit lost with the centre piece and how it all fits together, I need to see it all assembled I guess

Centre piece is a small block and thats basically a side wall for the lipos. I will show pics when its fitted

[Welshy40]

Ok so ive been promising that i would do a tensioner design for the standard plastic rear gearbox, well ive done the first stage and fitted a screw with some tiny tamiya washers and two zxs belt tensioner bearings. Next stage is to design a carbon fibre plate that can be bolted onto the outside of the gearbox to make the job of installing it simpler. My design means it wont affect the motor positioning unlike my very first idea before i designed my cf gearbox. Pics to follow.

[Welshy40]

As promised here is my first tensioner design for the standard gearbox. Im going to get a plate made from fibrelyte and that should make life a bit easier but may need to cut a fraction more away from the gearbox for it to work correctly. Still its a start and feels set correctly.

Also ive moved it from my preferred position which I use on my prototype CF gearbox as of I used a similar position you cant use the full range of pinions as the tensioner gets in the way. This was it avoids the motor and tensions the belt correctly.

As always opinions are always welcome.