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  #41  
Old 23-10-2013
Crashtest33 Crashtest33 is offline
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Call me a simpleton but why do you lot need tensioners n stuff on the ZX-R box? What power are you putting in there?!
James, you ZX-RS rear box is fine isn't it. Did the ZX-S ever have drivetrain issues?
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  #42  
Old 24-10-2013
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Tensioners are needed as the belts strip as the power from a 4.5, 5.5, 6.5 and 7.5 is too much for it to handle and it snaps or strips. I just took the design ideas from the zxs which was a faultless design where ive still been unable to damage a belt and put that design into the zxrs and also into the zxr plastic gearbox.

Only zxs issue was the slipper couldnt handle the brushless power
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  #43  
Old 24-10-2013
Ema Ema is offline
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Personally I never had a problem running a 6.5 on mine.

To be 100% honest the first time on my astro track the slipper was so tigth i was able to lose the pressure hexes (OT19), simply solved by losening my slipper a bit and tightening a little more the whell nuts .

Note that I'm running the belt rollers (LA10) over the small pulleys (LA11).

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  #44  
Old 24-10-2013
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Im surprised as in testing i got through a few belts. Once you run out of kyosho belts the ones available are not as strong so tensioning is needed to give a longer life.
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  #45  
Old 24-10-2013
Ema Ema is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Im surprised as in testing i got through a few belts. Once you run out of kyosho belts the ones available are not as strong so tensioning is needed to give a longer life.
So we finally found the difference ......
I'm still running some 20+ years old belts !!
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  #46  
Old 24-10-2013
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Ive snapped originals as well. Mind you im testing with a 4.5 to get the design right
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  #47  
Old 24-10-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Rob as promised this is my proto but ones Im selling will look pretty much the same all depending on the colour of the washers. Its pretty simple but believe me ive tested every concievable method and this is the best, plus it doesnt stop motor movement so stock and modified gear ratios wont be affected. and also you can tighten the belt or losen meaning your not set to one particular tension setting especially when the belt stretches it comes in handy.
its very identical to the idea i have, but not had chance to make it yet. Don't think much else can be done. I also have an idea for a self tensioning tensioner......think how a silicone gun works!
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  #48  
Old 24-10-2013
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its very identical to the idea i have, but not had chance to make it yet. Don't think much else can be done. I also have an idea for a self tensioning tensioner......think how a silicone gun works!
Well awaiting the cf items to arrive and washers and its for sale with a manual.
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  #49  
Old 24-10-2013
Crashtest33 Crashtest33 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Well awaiting the cf items to arrive and washers and its for sale with a manual.
What's the damage Jim?
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  #50  
Old 24-10-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashtest33 View Post
What's the damage Jim?
When I get the costs of the washers I will let you know.
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  #51  
Old 23-08-2014
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Originally Posted by kek23k View Post
They were made by Teamline, kinda like a factory team optional upgrade. They are much more robust than the original items and came in two different castor options. They were also ballraced round the kingpin and the ones in the photo appear to be missing the flanged bearings.
Does someone has a set of teamline hub carriers for sale?
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  #52  
Old 23-08-2014
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Originally Posted by rob m View Post
Hi all. First of all i would like to thank you for the advice and help you gave me in a previous thread for my zx , but this car has now become spares for a lazer zxr . I have stripped cleaned and rebuilt the zxr to the manual. I am planning to use the car over winter at two venues but want to keep the car as original as possible or with period upgrades.
The items i have changed are the shock towers for carbon fibre items with the front having the much needed bridge for strength, associated plastic servo mounts. Also the pistons in the option house shocks for modern lazer mk5 items (w5181-03 piston set). I am using lipo saddles 5600mah 95c and brushless 6.5t hpi motor 100t spur with 23t pinion.

Before i put my pride and joy up against the new cars i thought i would ask for the knowledge from the expert vintage lazer racers.....

is the manual a good starting point for a set up of the car?
What shock oil/pistons and lb springs to use front and rear?
Will the slipper be up to the job with a 6.5t brushless?
Any weak areas for the car to watch for?

The track surfaces i will be racing on are a hard rubber floor(indoor running track) , also a mixture of carpet/polished floor.
you have a front gearbox saver

plastic ???? closer pic please

olike you know where to ask ....

mvh isobarik
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  #53  
Old 23-08-2014
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Iso,

I believe its the shock tower brace that i prefer that he is on about.
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  #54  
Old 23-08-2014
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isobarik pics for you. since this thread i have made myself a few items that i found to be weak with using fast modern electrics....list so far on what i have changed.......
carbon chassis and top deck
self made impact supports for front gearbox shock tower mounting.
self made adjustable belt tensioners front and rear.
self made 7075 alloy beefed up front hinge pin braces, front and rear brace is 10mm thick extra 3mm over originals.
uprated slipper pads
when i get time at work a layshaft with built in la11 pulleys as i dont like the front one way
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  #55  
Old 23-08-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oli4ke View Post
Does someone has a set of teamline hub carriers for sale?
I did have quite a few 7.5° ones but sold them all, I only have 1 new packet left which are 5° ones,

But unsure if I would part with them, I would need tempting as they are my spares just in case mine broke,
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  #56  
Old 23-08-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob m View Post
isobarik pics for you. since this thread i have made myself a few items that i found to be weak with using fast modern electrics....list so far on what i have changed.......
carbon chassis and top deck
self made impact supports for front gearbox shock tower mounting.
self made adjustable belt tensioners front and rear.
self made 7075 alloy beefed up front hinge pin braces, front and rear brace is 10mm thick extra 3mm over originals.
uprated slipper pads
when i get time at work a layshaft with built in la11 pulleys as i dont like the front one way
I forgot about that, if you add a brace to the tower as well itll be much stronger but never the less great idea.
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  #57  
Old 23-08-2014
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do you mean like this front tower in the picture? any idea who made this one? its not the best looking but it does the job. i have drawn my own up just need to send it to fibrelyte and have them make it.
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  #58  
Old 24-08-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob m View Post
do you mean like this front tower in the picture? any idea who made this one? its not the best looking but it does the job. i have drawn my own up just need to send it to fibrelyte and have them make it.
Yes. I had one of them and broke it but didnt have your brace. Id recomend making the tower 1mm thicker to be on the safe side. Cant remember the maker but gave a good varity of settings.

I can see a problem with your car and that the tie rods going over the castor blocks. If you fully compress the shocks you will notice them hitting the blocks and does stop the suspension working correctly. You have two options, one dremel a v in the inner hub edge for the tie rod to stop this happening or like me drill another hole for the ball joint (i use associated) at the inner edge (you will need a shorter tie rod for this). I wouldnt advise using the kyosho king pin ball joint as that caused a lot of problems with the knuckle arms.
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  #59  
Old 24-08-2014
alcyon alcyon is offline
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Yeah, place the tie rod like this and you wont have any binding issues.
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  #60  
Old 24-08-2014
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thanks for the advice guys. thats an old picture i had on my phone, my front outer link is now through the king pin ( like the mk2 lazer ) and i have drilled a hole on the c block to try aswell. not had any use over summer outdoors but its ready to hit the track for winter racing again. last year i felt the car to be slow through the corners so ive made some sway bars and using the mk2 camber link positions as a starting set up.

alcyon. i like the w/bones and c hubs you have made in the pic.
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