TRF501X build - Page 12

mobilow · #**221** 10-03-2007

Hi
I also build my TRF and I also stripped two screws, So I decide to use stainless steel screws with Torx drive these are the best, I think and I take them over years also driving my losi without chassis cover and it works really good. The problem is that there is no alu or titanium screws available and weight reducing doesnt work.
Greetings from Germany

GRIFF55 · #**222** 10-03-2007

Sorry Jimmy, Japan it is!! Never was any good at geography. ha ha
Still very impressed with their service.

mobilow · #**223** 10-03-2007

is there also a center one way pulley available ? I just ordered the front hop up but a center will be smarter.

jimmy · #**224** 10-03-2007

centre one way is on the way but not available yet afaik

mobilow · #**225** 11-03-2007

what a good forum for the new TRF 501X, the latest infos in german forums nothing like this. Thanx

jimmy · #**226** 11-03-2007

Thanks!

Well, the oOple review 501X won at Bury Metro today in the hands of an unnamed test pilot.

One thing that did get damaged in a roll was the rear camber brace! Someone already bent one of these and I assumed they were some sort of maniac- but my unnamed test driver just grip rolled the car and it must have hit the wheel at an angle which bent the brace badly - it was hammered back into shape but it will need replacing.

bigred5765 · #**227** 11-03-2007

jimmy you picked your self up a stig

DCM · #**228** 11-03-2007

pm Fab (fabien Simoni) he has a carbon fibre one that he CNC'd, although your ball studs are now updise down vertical rather than facing forward.

GRIFF55 · #**229** 11-03-2007

Nice one Jimmy!!!!
Do you know the no. of the ko servo in that really tidy electric install?(french car)

Alan1467 · #**230** 13-03-2007

Anyone wanting a spare undertray for the 501 I have a spare (ordered from 2 places by mistake

)

mobilow · #**231** 14-03-2007

For everyone searching for new springs. I use Losi springs, when you use the original losi damper disks ( I dont know the english word ) The one thats below the spring. just grind it a few and you have a perfect damper without damaging the damper bodys.

stefke · #**232** 15-03-2007

question : I'm not very happy with the kit supplied servo saver. IMHO, it's a bit too soft and Ik makes the car feel jitterish on astro tracks. Does anyone know of a servo saver that would be a good fit ? A long time back, there where the Kimbrough savers that were pretty good, but I can't seem to find them anymore.

jimmy · #**233** 15-03-2007

woody has a plastic zip tie around the saver.. I think he changed it for a solid servo arm (much better all round - if you have a GOOD servo) but that broke so he had to use the kit item. The zip tie seems to have taken the slop out of it anyway

stefke · #**234** 15-03-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy

woody has a plastic zip tie around the saver.. I think he changed it for a solid servo arm (much better all round - if you have a GOOD servo) but that broke so he had to use the kit item. The zip tie seems to have taken the slop out of it anyway

I was thinking in the direction of a solid arm, but the zip tie should be a better idea. At least it offers some form of protection.

jimmy · #**235** 15-03-2007

On the BJ4 (original) I went from a heavy duty servo saver like this tamiya one - to a solid arm. The difference was definately noticable on our high traction surfaces.. the steering felt a lot more predictable and solid.. It just turned like you wanted..
The zip tie is probably almost as good though and like you say, it protect stuff better. The forces were enough to break the solid arm, so you can imagine the forces on the servo. maybe better to have slightly sloppy steering than none !

GRIFF55 · #**236** 02-04-2007

Drove the car for the first time offroad yesterday at Oswestry, WOOOOO HOOOOO, i love it!!!!
Snapped the rear suspension arm off in practice and bent a hinge pin

.
(first time i've drove in ten years!)
Anybody know where i can get ti ones???
I used the review set up, andt it was great. Thanks Jimmy.

jimmy · #**237** 02-04-2007

Woody did the same at the weekend - the rear of the arm broke - so the front (on the inner hinge pin) put a lot of force on the pin, bending it badly.

Woody took a hammer to it and even though it wasn't 100% perfect it still pivots very freely because of the way it mounts..
I've not seen Ti pins yet, but I am not sure they'd be any stronger.

Northy · #**238** 02-04-2007

Titanium is not stronger than steel, only lighter. The reason we use Ti turnbuckles for strength is because you can make them a bigger diameter to get the strength, but they are still light as they are made from titanium.

G

HairySteve · #**239** 02-04-2007

I did the same thing, I was showing off with the 5.5 brushless cranked up to full power, screaming around the car park at work on some old knackered tyres, and I got a turn wrong and clipped a van wheel at about 30 miles/hour.

It did exactly what you describe, the front of the arm broke off but the rear stayed in one piece and bent the hinge pin. Ah well. I'll have a ruhmmage through my spares box and see if anything else fits. I have a feeling they'll be the same size as outer hinge pins off a HPI Hellfire, in which case I might get the titanium nitride ones that HPI do...

-Steve

jimmy · #**240** 02-04-2007

Anyone know what alternative diff plates might fit and be better than the kit items? Either the balls or the plates are slipping on woodys car, just can't seem to stop them slipping and it grinds up the plates making them rather nasty and gritty.
Got some KANZEN ceramic balls on the way but harder plates would be nice.