X2c width

[Chalkie]

How have people got the cars legal at the front? I've seen the B4 hub method but can you do it with narrower hexes and if so does the hex part of the wheel still clear the hub as it looks like there's only about 1mm clearance now?
Whilst we're at it is the rear of the car ok with wider tires such as minipins?

[Gonky]

I've used the Alloy hexes from the Ansmann X4TE. They're thinner than the standard X2C plastic ones.

Drill the hole out so it fits the 2wd front axles (about 5mm if i remember correctly), file down the rear of the hex so it's flush, fit to the car, fit the wheel then i just cut the thread down on each axle to just above the wheel nut.

The rear width of the car was fine when i measured it with mini pins on so no worries there.

[Chalkie]

Ok i will grab a look next week.

[toooldskool]

I've done the same as Gonky but used some 1/8th scale clutch shims (0.2mm) to stop any binding issues

[Mad-Wolfie]

Originally Posted by toooldskool

I've done the same as Gonky but used some 1/8th scale clutch shims (0.2mm) to stop any binding issues

That's not a bad idea. I'm also running the X4 narrow hex's with chopped axles & have had to set the wheel-nut a little slack to stop binding, i'm also running non-flanged wheel-nuts on the front which means an extra mm or so can be shaved off the axle.

If using the X4 hubs, all i will say is watch those roll-pins, they are a bit off a faff to get into place & pretty much once they are on, they are on for good so make sure all the smeg is removed from the inner hub & the bearings are nice & free before you fit them as maintenance will be more tricky. Also i had to change the circlips on the back of the axle to allow the wheel to spin freely, but that may just be me & although the circlips were ansmann ones from a new pack, the ones i replaced did seem a smidge thicker.

I also tried sanding the plastic hex down with some 100 grit sandpaper just so the sunken ( ) marks were pretty much invisible before & give the other side a quick skim over as well to lower the raised bits. It did seem OK & was a stop-gap before i got the X4 hubs, that also seemed to work, you may well choose just to sand the plastic ones down & stick with them, but it was a case i started to panic thinking the X4 hubs i'd ordered wouldn't be here in time before i needed them so opted to sand the plastic ones just in case they didn't.. thankfully the X4 ones came with time to spare but i will still keep the plastic ones handy just in case.

Also on the kit rims, there is sometimes a burr or raised moulding mark on the hex.. it's not a lot, but a quick wazz round with a scalpel blade or some sanding & it's easily removed, this has helped stop some of the binding problems.

[Chalkie]

Right I found my own solution to this now, nice and simple with no dremel work needed, no binding or chance of crushing the bearings plus you gain the ability to adjust the track width if needed.
You need a set of Kyosho UM569 ultima front axles plus a pair of 5x7x1mm washers (I used Dex410 front crunch spacers) simply replace the kit axles with the kyosho ones and use the included spacers plus the 5x7x1 spacers to adjust the track width.