|
#1521
|
||||
|
||||
if you tap the holes, then it isn't so bad, use the AW grease too.... buy some cap head 12mm screws for the suspension holders though, it makes it far easier to remove after.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1522
|
||||
|
||||
Have these DB01 options been posted yet?
|
#1523
|
||||
|
||||
Not seen photos of them yet no. nice one. Are any of these actually out yet? What's that blue alloy square thing? Ah ok, I see it now, it's a cover for underneath the motor with the new cutout... hmm.
|
#1524
|
||||
|
||||
not to sure what that metal plate will acheive unless it is directly attatched to the motor mount.... then it could be a funky heatsink.....
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1526
|
||||
|
||||
This is Tamiya, so who knows but I guess in dusty track, or wet tracks, it means you get cooling AND sealed chassis still...
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1527
|
||||
|
||||
I'll wager the fifth hole attaches to the bottom of the motor mount and the other four holes secure in place on the chassis.
|
#1528
|
|||
|
|||
They are a bit rubbish aren't they. Mine have started to rust after I took the Durga out in the rain and splashed it through loads of gritty puddles. I put the one-way front diff in tonight for a bit of fun. Will install the slipper when the motor comes I think, probably don't even need it but I enjoy the tinkering.
|
#1529
|
||||
|
||||
The blue aluminum square thing is in fact a motor heat sink. The problem is that the only way to use the new carbon reinforced lower deck is with that heat sink as there is no other option to fill that large hole. Luckily the heat sink is only about $10USD at full MSRP through Tamiya. Should be about $7USD in the stores. The nicest pieces are the suspension mounts in aluminum like you have so many problems with in step 1 of the manual. They are definately a nice piece!
|
#1530
|
||||
|
||||
Hey Andrew, any idea when these parts are in the shops? Just busy with 2 review cars on the go, but still managed to build my new Durga this weekend - got a few new bits like the carbon upper decks on order but I'd like to get the carbon chassis and maybe the centre one way if I can find them
|
#1531
|
||||
|
||||
if the Carbon chassis is lighter, and the carbon parts lighter... I may have to flex some spending money lol
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1532
|
||||
|
||||
Hey Jimmy, stateside they should be out about the middle to end of June. We still don't have our samples in, but I know when the guys went to the Shizuoka hobby show a couple weeks ago, they got to talk to the designer and see the parts and all came back really floored with how nice they are. I might be a little biased obviously, but I always think the blue anodized stuff looks good on the kits!
|
#1533
|
||||
|
||||
are they the same performance upgrade like the Carbon plastics parts on the TA05? and if so, any news on whether the chassis is flat and not tweaked like the carbon plastic TA05 tub?
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1534
|
|||
|
|||
im about to do my shocks
what would you guys recomend?? light oil at the front and heavy on the back? or the other way round? heavy on the front and light on the back? i just dont want this thing to bottom out or nose dive |
#1535
|
||||
|
||||
Are these the kit shocks? heavy as you can find all round Usually you'd want heavier in the front but these shocks are a bit random, and actually different diameters. You could try the hardest piston in the front (single hole?) and the middle (double hole??) in the rear as well.
|
#1536
|
|||
|
|||
yes these are kit shocks on second tought i might just use my alu shock that came with my dt02ms and swap it with the durga kit shocks
what do you guys think? |
#1537
|
||||
|
||||
run the kit oil with the kit springs and pistons, they won't be that bad actually....
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1538
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I have all of the current carbon parts on my person one and they seem to all be very good. The only issue I had was that Tamiya Inc. did not decide to take the time to fix the mold for the suspension blocks so that the holes didn't need to be tapped. Oh well, that's what the aluminum ones are for!!! |
#1539
|
|||
|
|||
almost finish buildng my kit
its a bit of pain building this kit because of the screw anyway thanks jimmy and dcm regarding the advice on the shocks |
#1540
|
||||
|
||||
I prefer the aluminium ones, they are far stronger
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|