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#21
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Quote:
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#22
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To be fair am sure that the trf ones are better, but isn't it a bit like buying an ezrun set up over say a speed passion or novak, the ezrun does the same job, tis cheaper, but widely viewed as not being as good as the speed passion or novak etc
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#23
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must have had a dodgy set then as every 1 i know who runs them never had any problems with them.fair enough you have to change the spring and oil but thats to be expected to get the car to handle haw you want it to.
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#24
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True, just depends on what you want, I found that you get what you pay for to be fair, only thing I have replaced on the Tamiya shocks, is the o-rings due to old age.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#25
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erm, servo saver too long/short, or can you adjust the trim on the tx?
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#26
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was thinking about the servo horn length so will look at that, only built it on thursday so still learning, used to driving a 2wd buggy so my thumbs are possibly some of the problem......
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#27
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Just thought I would add my comment about shocks, Iv;e got and used both TRF and 3racing shocks with all sorts of oil and spring rates on my m05. Best set up I use is m03 springs, dry inside with a 2mm washer added. standard springs. If using Lipo add 40grams of weight up front and 60gramms at the back. space out the wheels 2mm. I race on carpet indoors and my m05 handles brilliantly never understeers or rolls. Just need alot more tallent. Hope this helps
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#28
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Sorry forgot to answer the servo horn question, Use a short horn, lengthen the steering rod out and lock with two nuts. if you have the capability to turn down your steering rate with your transmitter, I set mine to about 65%. By the way you can run an m05 without the two top braces.
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#29
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ooh, how do you space out the wheels? (won't be long till this thread gets shifted to the tamiya section me thinks - better still merged with the m03/05 thread that's already over there )
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#30
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Between the wheel and the black plastic hex, make sure the washer or washers are nearly the same size as the hex or if you bang the wheel while racing it will distort the wheel, RC Direct used to sell hex spacers at one time. If you can get the shallow locking wheel nuts you can space the wheels out up to 3mm whithout the nut comming off. Its not much to do this but its worth it for handling. So the m05 I have raced since they came out is just a standard kit except; blue alloy steering linkage, weights and wheel spacers. Tyres are either Yeah racing treaded (superglued edges on the front) or Yeah racing foams. Hope this all helps
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#31
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Sorry mistake on my first reply. I use m03 shocks, 2mm washer on the shock shaft inside the body, adjust the rubber tubing (shorten) don't grease the rubber, standard springs. If the rear steps out too much try Tamiya 53345, I think time tunnel models sell these. Don't tighten any of the screws up too tight, Tamiya M chassis seem to work their best when they have been used for a while so everything becomes loose.
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