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  #601  
Old 09-07-2015
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Got some more pics, my yz2 has 3mm of shims, my rb6 has the rack flipped so the ball studs are further back than normal. As you can see, the yz2 has pretty much dead straight links when steering is straight, rb6 is slightly angled towards the front, and this would be even more angled with the rack flipped back as it should be.
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  #602  
Old 09-07-2015
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Did someone not post a reply from Lee Martin?surly he should know 😄
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  #603  
Old 09-07-2015
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Quote:
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Did someone not post a reply from Lee Martin?surly he should know 😄
Lee did also confirm with me that increasing spacers calms steering
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  #604  
Old 09-07-2015
Allan1875 Allan1875 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichyUK View Post
Got some more pics, my yz2 has 3mm of shims, my rb6 has the rack flipped so the ball studs are further back than normal. As you can see, the yz2 has pretty much dead straight links when steering is straight, rb6 is slightly angled towards the front, and this would be even more angled with the rack flipped back as it should be.
Thanks mate, much appreciated, will have a proper look at this after.

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Did someone not post a reply from Lee Martin?surly he should know 😄
Yes, me, before we went into all the detail.
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  #605  
Old 10-07-2015
timoxx4 timoxx4 is offline
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We might have to measure the RB6 Ackerman to see exactly what is going on with it. Seems strange that straight links are calm on one car and angled is calm on another.

Last edited by timoxx4; 10-07-2015 at 12:07 AM.
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  #606  
Old 10-07-2015
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Originally Posted by timoxx4 View Post
We might have to measure the RB6 Ackerman to see exactly what is going on with it. Seems strange that straight links are calm on one car and angled is calm on another.
This is what I said the racks are the same but apparently a different effect
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  #607  
Old 11-07-2015
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Ran my YZ-2 for the first time last night. Nice and smooth I must say.

Just one thing I had with it was the inside rear wheel keeps lifting up in tight corners that I couldent get it to stop doing ?

The car felt like it just had toooo much front grip in total. Any way to shed some of that front grip at all ?

I was running the Shin Adachi Energy RC - Guangzhou setup with the following changes. http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/...ngzhou20150405
5000 diff oil,
gull wing front arms/tower,
+1mm Bmax rear arms
4mm ackerman spacers.
Rear shocks on back.
55g brass lipo weight. 20g behind motor.


This is on indoor carpet. Had a little traction roll also which was strange as I thought the extra long rear arms would have stopped that ???

I had to cut back a lot of the dual rate also as it was just too much at 100%. Maybe need half worn out front tires ? But the rear inside wheel lifting up is probably the biggest problem.
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  #608  
Old 11-07-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timoxx4 View Post
Ran my YZ-2 for the first time last night. Nice and smooth I must say.

Just one thing I had with it was the inside rear wheel keeps lifting up in tight corners that I couldent get it to stop doing ?

The car felt like it just had toooo much front grip in total. Any way to shed some of that front grip at all ?

I was running the Shin Adachi Energy RC - Guangzhou setup with the following changes. http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/...ngzhou20150405
5000 diff oil,
gull wing front arms/tower,
+1mm Bmax rear arms
4mm ackerman spacers.
Rear shocks on back.
55g brass lipo weight. 20g behind motor.


This is on indoor carpet. Had a little traction roll also which was strange as I thought the extra long rear arms would have stopped that ???

I had to cut back a lot of the dual rate also as it was just too much at 100%. Maybe need half worn out front tires ? But the rear inside wheel lifting up is probably the biggest problem.
What Springs?
What size lipo?
Try the straight front arms.
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  #609  
Old 12-07-2015
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Springs are the Red front and Orange rear. Carpet springs. Same as on Shins setup sheet.

Shorty lipo
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  #610  
Old 12-07-2015
Allan1875 Allan1875 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timoxx4 View Post
Springs are the Red front and Orange rear. Carpet springs. Same as on Shins setup sheet.

Shorty lipo
Use normal staggers, not cut staggers, they just give way too much.
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  #611  
Old 12-07-2015
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Ah OK. The only staggers I can get locally (ie Australia) are the slim staggers. Is that any good?
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  #612  
Old 13-07-2015
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Yes.
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  #613  
Old 13-07-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timoxx4 View Post
Ah OK. The only staggers I can get locally (ie Australia) are the slim staggers. Is that any good?
Yes, you want low profile, slim staggers.

I believe from pictures that I have seen from Shins car before, that he runs his cut staggers on the full size 2wd wheel with them stretched across. Not 100% sure how the handling would differ due to this but id imagine it might be a little more stable and less pointy on the front end?

It's not something I have ever tried.
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Last edited by Allan1875; 13-07-2015 at 09:57 AM.
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  #614  
Old 13-07-2015
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Default Servo Horns

I have been using the shorter servo horn supplied with the kit. I did notice that to get full lock I was having to up my dual rate and EPA on my transmitter, not an issue works fine.

Yesterday I managed to strip the splines on the shorter horn so replaced it with the longer one supplied with the kit, obviously now I was able to tune back down my dual rate and EPA due to the extra travel of the longer horn.

My question is what are the pros and cons of using a shorter/longer servo horn, and which do you prefer/recommend?

I am considering getting the aluminium horn, but also thinking i'd rather replace a striped servo horn rather than the servo.
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  #615  
Old 13-07-2015
timoxx4 timoxx4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan1875 View Post
Yes, you want low profile, slim staggers.

I believe from pictures that I have seen from Shins car before, that he runs his cut staggers on the full size 2wd wheel with them stretched across. Not 100% sure how the handling would differ due to this but id imagine it might be a little more stable and less pointy on the front end?

It's not something I have ever tried.
Ha, Now I look at it I see Lee and Shin are using full width front wheels. With the slim staggers also. Must be something too that.
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  #616  
Old 13-07-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil_H View Post
I have been using the shorter servo horn supplied with the kit. I did notice that to get full lock I was having to up my dual rate and EPA on my transmitter, not an issue works fine.

Yesterday I managed to strip the splines on the shorter horn so replaced it with the longer one supplied with the kit, obviously now I was able to tune back down my dual rate and EPA due to the extra travel of the longer horn.

My question is what are the pros and cons of using a shorter/longer servo horn, and which do you prefer/recommend?

I am considering getting the aluminium horn, but also thinking i'd rather replace a striped servo horn rather than the servo.
I've done that before. I run the long one in mine and I've stripped it once. I tried the shorter one but missed the longer one so went back. I always keep a spare set of plastics ones now as destroying a £140 servo would make my eyes water.
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  #617  
Old 13-07-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil_H View Post
I have been using the shorter servo horn supplied with the kit. I did notice that to get full lock I was having to up my dual rate and EPA on my transmitter, not an issue works fine.

Yesterday I managed to strip the splines on the shorter horn so replaced it with the longer one supplied with the kit, obviously now I was able to tune back down my dual rate and EPA due to the extra travel of the longer horn.

My question is what are the pros and cons of using a shorter/longer servo horn, and which do you prefer/recommend?

I am considering getting the aluminium horn, but also thinking i'd rather replace a striped servo horn rather than the servo.
I'm guessing here, but a shorter horn means that more force will transfer into the servo. I'd imagine that a short horn with more epa would be more likely to strip gears if you took a hit (I.e, for the same amount of steering, the servo has to move more, so if the wheels turn through (eg) 45degree witha knock, the servo will be jammed further witha short arm than a long arm.)
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  #618  
Old 14-07-2015
timoxx4 timoxx4 is offline
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Only a long arm has more leverage on the servo gears than a short one. Its probably moot and they would both be about the same ???
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  #619  
Old 17-07-2015
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http://www.liverc.com/news/special_f...r_Yokomo_YZ-2/
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  #620  
Old 18-07-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timoxx4 View Post
Only a long arm has more leverage on the servo gears than a short one. Its probably moot and they would both be about the same ???
I agree 100%, a longer arm gives more leverage, but obviously there are 2 levers here - the one at the wheels and the one at the servo, so if the servo horn is shorter, then the one at the wheels will "relatively be longer" so this is the lever that will give more leverage and as such it will put more force on the shorter level (the servo horn) which in turn puts that force into the servo gears.

I'm still not certain I've described this very well, but hope the above makes sense.
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