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  #281  
Old 23-11-2015
ayske1 ayske1 is offline
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Would you say it's better than the bmax 4 in every way?

Curious to see how it'll go on low traction dirt
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  #282  
Old 23-11-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neallewis View Post
I've also just fitted the yz2 hanger, but didn't need to shim it. I used 1mm under the yz2 front hanger. the yz2 has a small 0.5mm plate shim.
On measuring, the yz2 hanger and 2H4 dot inserts are the same width, but look to be slightly different heights (changing antisquat). I used 1mm.under yz2FR hanger to return it to 2deg antisquat.

The car is awesome, handles amazingly.
Just checking then - if I leave kit plastic rear hangar, and add yz-2 front hangar, what gives me the kit 3 degrees tow and 2 squat? Is it no shim underneath and neither up nor down pill but central?

If so I can then use pills from the rear side in the front to change those settings right?

Just want to make sure I use the correct starting point!
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  #283  
Old 23-11-2015
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I went with the front alu hanger arrow pointing upwards
and with the rear hanger H1-3 dot up(everything with a dot = 3degree of toe), which gives me 3toe 1squat. You should use 0H2 dot up for 2squat then.
That is according http://site.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo..._ToeAntiSquat/

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Originally Posted by DaveG28 View Post
Just checking then - if I leave kit plastic rear hangar, and add yz-2 front hangar, what gives me the kit 3 degrees tow and 2 squat? Is it no shim underneath and neither up nor down pill but central?

If so I can then use pills from the rear side in the front to change those settings right?

Just want to make sure I use the correct starting point!
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  #284  
Old 24-11-2015
Piles Piles is offline
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Default Diffs!

Did anybody else have stiff and notchy diffs when first building? I built mine last week and put in 5,000wt in and they have more resistance, and are "grainy", than my BMax with 10,000. I haven't run yet, hopefully they loosen up.
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  #285  
Old 24-11-2015
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Originally Posted by Piles View Post
Did anybody else have stiff and notchy diffs when first building? I built mine last week and put in 5,000wt in and they have more resistance, and are "grainy", than my BMax with 10,000. I haven't run yet, hopefully they loosen up.
Just run it and it will free up. The gear surfaces need lapping. running it will free it up.
I've seen a gear diff build on youtube that used lapping paste in the gear diff, then using a drill to turn the diff outdrive to do the process, but this seems a bit extreme to me. Just run it.
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  #286  
Old 24-11-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcpower View Post
I went with the front alu hanger arrow pointing upwards
and with the rear hanger H1-3 dot up(everything with a dot = 3degree of toe), which gives me 3toe 1squat. You should use 0H2 dot up for 2squat then.
That is according http://site.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo..._ToeAntiSquat/
Thanks - is it also necessary to run the Yz-2 plastic spacer below the fr hangar?
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  #287  
Old 24-11-2015
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manual: http://www.teamyokomo.com/download/m..._201511_1b.pdf
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  #288  
Old 25-11-2015
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Looking great: http://www.redrc.net/2015/11/yokomo-...minium-c-hubs/

Will be expensive though
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  #289  
Old 25-11-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveG28 View Post
Thanks - is it also necessary to run the Yz-2 plastic spacer below the fr hangar?
No you dont,

The YZ2 comes with a spacer under the FR and RR hangers.

You can chose the run it with or without the spacers.
Use it under both hangers and it changes the roll-center a little.

Dont recommend to use it under the FR only, as it will change anti-squat
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  #290  
Old 25-11-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piles View Post
Did anybody else have stiff and notchy diffs when first building? I built mine last week and put in 5,000wt in and they have more resistance, and are "grainy", than my BMax with 10,000. I haven't run yet, hopefully they loosen up.
I had exactly this, did what was suggested above and its a lot better now, but I did notice this during the build as well.
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  #291  
Old 27-11-2015
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Now that the kit has been out for a few weeks, are there any absolute hop-ups that are needed (such as the Aluminum narrow pulley & belt set) for increased performance on high bite surfaces?

A lot of people over on RCtech are saying there isn't much needed for increased performance - other than the consumables like tyres, oils, springs pistons etc.
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  #292  
Old 27-11-2015
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Most have had one meeting on the car if lucky...

I'd still say buy a kit and run it. Nothing wrong with it out the box. My only feeling is that the servo mounts are rubbish in the kit, and the alloy one is best, however it will still function fine with the kit plastic ones.

Roll bars are needed, but they are included with a Yokomo Europe (not CML) sourced kit, other wise an extra.

I'd be looking to do rear hangers for adjustment, then steering crank parts, servo mount, upper front ball stud mounts, then maybe belt pulleys.

I've all the options on mins at this time, except the YZ4 hangers. I've used YZ2 ones for now, as they are in my box anyway.
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  #293  
Old 10-12-2015
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Default YZ4 suspension hangers

Quick question guys, when ordering the alloy rear suspension hangers for the YZ4, do they come with the plastic insets or do you need to order the suspension mount bush/ bumper kit too?

Cheers guys. 👍🏻
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  #294  
Old 10-12-2015
richm richm is offline
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You'll need the additional parts.
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  #295  
Old 11-01-2016
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Couple of body options if your running indoor. Both fit really well and only require minimal mods to clear pulleys, i wouldnt run them outdoor due to exposure, but its an option if your not a fan of the Lifeboat kit shell.

lee



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  #296  
Old 11-01-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedros20 View Post
Quick question guys, when ordering the alloy rear suspension hangers for the YZ4, do they come with the plastic insets or do you need to order the suspension mount bush/ bumper kit too?

Cheers guys. 👍🏻
You'll need the black and gold spacers also to really get the benefit from the alloy hangers
Z4-300RRS
Z4-300RFS
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  #297  
Old 11-01-2016
mes mes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legacy555 View Post
You'll need the black and gold spacers also to really get the benefit from the alloy hangers
Z4-300RRS
Z4-300RFS
I haven't seen any input on those spacers as yet, but I guess I'll want them before long. However, I don't know what to think of the pricing of these sets. We are talking of close to 30 euros for some bits of stamped metal (both sets). So far, at least Yokomo's non-machined parts used to be available at decent prices. What's going on? I am really happy with both my YZ cars, but the price of these thingies has put a dent into Yokomo's reputation for me, and I've been a fanboy since the early 90s... IMHO these thingies should be included in the kit or at least come with the aluminium hangers. Ridiculous...
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  #298  
Old 11-01-2016
ayske1 ayske1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralphee View Post
Couple of body options if your running indoor. Both fit really well and only require minimal mods to clear pulleys, i wouldnt run them outdoor due to exposure, but its an option if your not a fan of the Lifeboat kit shell.

lee



they the phantom and silencer from the bmax 4/3?

I thought that the width of them would be off? Unless it's for another car?
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  #299  
Old 11-01-2016
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Both AE fitting, chassis width and profile is spot on!

Lee
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  #300  
Old 12-01-2016
Legacy555 Legacy555 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mes View Post
I haven't seen any input on those spacers as yet, but I guess I'll want them before long. However, I don't know what to think of the pricing of these sets. We are talking of close to 30 euros for some bits of stamped metal (both sets). So far, at least Yokomo's non-machined parts used to be available at decent prices. What's going on? I am really happy with both my YZ cars, but the price of these thingies has put a dent into Yokomo's reputation for me, and I've been a fanboy since the early 90s... IMHO these thingies should be included in the kit or at least come with the aluminium hangers. Ridiculous...
The plastic hangers are tough and cheap. Putting aerospace aluminium parts on the car is always going to cost more. The shims are not pressed, they are laser cut so that the metal doesn't get deformed. Proper part, properly made. Not expensive - go down to your local machine shop and price them up.
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