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#301
27-06-2015
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Don't do it...
Keep the IFS, they're great!! 
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#302
28-06-2015
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Yeh rightly or wrongly I'm leaving my IFS on, I've even got a second set to fit to my son's or as a spare for mine.
As I said earlier to me the car handled superbly even with all my incorrect settings, un-trued tyres, so am chomping at the bit to drive it now.
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#303
28-06-2015
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your call but its not quicker than kit beam and it was designed for oval...
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD
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#304
28-06-2015
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Well my car has performed better with it than without the Ifs so it's staying!
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#305
29-06-2015
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IFS or Beam
Interesting and diverse views on the front end setup and a topic that has been discussed before but without a real conclusion I believe.
I am aware that experimentation with beam width to change the anti-roll stiffness has also been attempted by some drivers too, again inconclusive as far as I can determine but I have not been that close to the racing action for a few months. I have always felt that the standard beam is a bit too stiff and possibly prone to tweaking after any impact, whereas the IFS I suspect should not suffer this effect. I also suspect that this debate will remain polarised between drivers and we may never reach a conclusive state. 
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#306
29-06-2015
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Absolutely agree Xracer..
Of course there will be some on here that will say, it makes my car faster, my car slower, it was designed for this and designed for that; until some form of drone car without the human element (which will never happen) can be utilised, no one persons view is universally correct.. But it does make for interesting debate... The IFS for my money however, does seem much simpler to set for a newbie like me, and anything simpler gets the thumbs up from me!!
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#307
29-06-2015
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Ifs easier to set up?
Caster is same time to set, droop is same on mine as I have droop screws in my Ifs, camber,two screws and swap top plate on kit beam, Ifs is disassemble and add or remove spacers. Then reset droop.making Ifs more complicated. I class the fact that the team and the test drivers have all concluded the kit beam is better. Far more feed back than a clone, though some of thier cars lap times are that similar they could be computer driven
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD
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#308
30-06-2015
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Each to their own Mark... You crack on with the kit, not for me!
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#309
01-07-2015
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Report on the Sunday racing at West Kent for me was yet again major improvement.
Firstly, Shinytopman who is without doubt the most kind hearted of them all as far as helping along a newbie, trued a set of tyres for me... First it looks like you have a set of fronts on the back, haha, but the handling I found quite strange. Made th car so responsive and gave the feel of way more sensitivity from the stick (steering) which I initially thought was a negative. But actually, the car was more grippy and allowed the change of direction to be far less of an ordeal and gave me a a small sniff of qualifying for an A final... Heady hieghts for a guy like me at what was a very busy West Kent. I will definitely be investing in a truer over the next few weeks to come... Secondly, a great tip for the front of the McLaren body which I have yet to read about which Shinytopman helped me with, was padding out the nose of the McLaren shell to stop it flexing on the corners due to the SSGT posts that make the front end flex and flick the carpet on cornering. Made yet again more performance gains, adding to a fabulous race meeting. I'll be off to Maritime Thursday to get in some valuable practice and hope to make more gains and sniff an A final (yeh right!!) In the end, I finished second in the B Final at WKRCC literally missing out by a win by four feet. I had fest places card marked, if it wasn't for a slightly over zealous push which cost me it would have topped one of my most enjoyable meets. If like me you turn up and see millions of people with huge tables, 8 chargers, pitt lights, surgical gloves, team race wear and a stable of cars, fear not... Small stationary boxes, car, charger and a few tools deliver what is four hours of total fun for a cost of £4, stop it... I concur the best things in life (after investment) are for free (well four quid!!) Best Wishes Stu
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#310
02-07-2015
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Quote:
With some 400 grit 'wet 'n dry' paper, scuff up the side of the ring that contacts the aluminium hubs on the axle and wheel. Do the same to the those aluminium hubs, but just enough to remove the sheen of the anodising, not to remove it. Clean all surfaces well and re-assemble. If that doesn't fix it, then clean those surfaces you just scuffed thoroughly and fix the washer to the hubs with superglue. They will come unstuck eventually so keep an eye on the diff and clean/reglue at each rebuild. That WILL fix it! Quote:
That way, the offset of the cell in the casing helps to balance the weight across the chassis. It's standard practice in LMP12 for that reason. No biggie, but if you check your chassis balance from side-to-side and it's off by a bit, swapping the battery position should fix it. Quote:
That piece of the car is never going to tweak - ever. Even thinned down ones won't do that. CFRP is either going to take the loads, or break. That piece of the car is looking at you and saying "come on then, give me some load if you're hard enough!" So you crash it at 30 mph into a solid barrier and it says "you'll have to try harder than that!" You get the idea...  That is not a reason to go back to the beam. Views are only polarised amongst us mere mortals. The aces are quite clear - the beam is faster. So stick to your guns and run what makes you feel the car is giving you a big smile because in the end that's why we mere mortals do this stupid hobby!! Stu, glad to hear the car is still giving you a challenge that you are clearly mastering. Who cares where we finish - did we have fun and did we have a great race against our mates - you bet ya! HTH 
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#311
03-07-2015
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Ok NEWSFLASH... Had a brilliant night at Maritime, crikey my car was on form and I do believe the driving equally blossomed as the cars handling is improving.
I have to mention the most humbling positive words from Ian Knight of Maritime saying "your car is seriously quick" followed by, "your car has definitely found its sweetspot" I certainly glowed when hearing these very encouraging words... I also have to mention, in the B Final I took out Mr Knight twice, once during the infield and second at the end of the back straight (clearly I needed a higher speed crash) which caused him to go from leading to third, huge apologies Ian, as I may have said a few times during and after the race. Gosh what a great bunch of guys at Maritime; made my buddy "G Spot" feel hugely welcome, especially after we worked out he had only done a total of 30minutes track time in total, a really confidence boosting experience for him too. He and I are off to Rayleigh Raceway Wednesday to both do some further testing and more track time for him and his car. The transponder turned up this morning, ordered some ceramic bearings, which may see an end to purchasing anymore hop ups for the foreseeable future. What a hobby, on the way home G Spot and I were like a couple of fifteen year olds talking about all the highs and lows of what was yet another 4hours of non stop thrills and spills at £5... It simply gets no better. Huge thanks Maritime, huge thanks GT12... Over and out....
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#312
04-07-2015
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When it comes from the top "Mark" I needed to listen so have gone back to the stock front suspension set up, and am looking forward to driving it soon.
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#313
05-07-2015
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Something that we all need to decide on is our Motor and ESC combo. Largely driven by budget and then what you've seen other people using.
What would people say about performance and budget on these. You could say you've seen people trounce high budget cars using basic gear etc but let's put those thoughts aside and just put forward your ideal choices if you could or do run them sat against different budgets we all have individually. So based on the above ESC priced at or up to £50, £70, £100 Motor priced at or up to £50, £70, £100
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#314
05-07-2015
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To be competitive its a no brainer...
Toro1s Esc £80 Thunder Power 13.5T £60 The motor is the pretty much the same across the board, such good performance and you can get all the spares you like, and also different rotors. As for the ESC, a lot use the Hobbywing 3.1v which is around £150 but I have yet to have anyone say definitively why its the best as yet..
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#315
05-07-2015
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The Turnigy Trackstar Gen2 1cell is a great buy if your on a budget £34 plus P&P (from hobbyking, dont buy from international warehouse, ONLY UK or europe) These are dedicated 1cell speedo's.
Or (not used one) but according to reports the team powers 40amp speedo is ok. It comes with a programe box for £47 plus P&P. This is a 2cell speedo but it seems to work ok on a 1cell Lipo without a booster if your servo is not to power hungry. But for sheer ease of use i'd go for a dedicated 1cell speedo. Motors. The only ones you ever hear about are either Thunder Power or Trinity (D4 or Killshot)
__________________
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#316
07-07-2015
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It's easy to think you can buy power, but the reality is that driving skill is the true differentiator in pan car classes. You just cannot mask bad driving with a fat wallet!
At the GT Nationals you can see just about every combination of motor and speedo in the top 20. On any given day if one driver finds the sweet spot of their car and the track, they will beat any other car that isn't on the sweet spot. For mere mortals there is more speed to be found from a good LiPo and good driving than almost any speedo/motor combo. Get a good timing/gearing set-up from a good driver using your motor and speedo, slap it onto the car and see what happens. The Hobbywing speedos seem to have an edge on throttle feel and acceleration - at the top end they are all the same. As I like to say, the HW speedos 'blink' faster than others! Nothing will substitute for a good LiPo. I have been through four 'cheap' VapexTech cells, three of which go like the clappers and one of which is noticeably slower. The good ones are excellent, but after about ten runs the bad one just dropped out. Given to a club racer they would never know the difference - racing against the best it is a clear half-lap slower over six minutes. I agree with Stu, that combo is as good as any. As Stu found out, giving them a good LiPo to feed off is the key to a car that "is seriously quick." In the end, almost any combo in the hands of Mark Stiles or Adam Catchpole-Walker will make us mere mortals look slow - just learn to drive fast if you want to go fast! 
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#317
08-07-2015
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Thanks guys,
Yeh Slowone I hear you and agree but you kind of answered in the way I was trying to avoid, I knew it would be said but I just wanted to get down to brass tacks on what is an ideal purchase. You can't drive a car with no motor and esc using purely skill, one combo or another has to be in the car. You might be a total newb to racing, you might be born to race and pick it up instantly, you might be seasoned in other classes. On top of this you might be a teenager spending your saturday jobs wages on this or you might be a company director with money to burn etc. You might be looking to buy the more expensive gear second hand on eBay or here on Oople, you might not. Agreed again on practice, agreed a good driver can win with anything in the right environment but again a purchase of some type has to be made. The point was all the above aside what would people recommend on the budgets I put forward which for me represent the kind of budgets we might or would actually be forced to have when buying new. Please take nothing negative from this, as I'm typing smiling but just wanted my question to be read in the right way
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#318
08-07-2015
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Northernbill, a point really well made.. It is often reposted as just drive better, but from my humble/limited experience, I would never have improved at the rate I have without having spent money and time on my car with the various hop ups, new lipos, batteries and motors.
It is all about the driving, but there is major advancements to a persons driving if the car has the ability to go around the track balanced. I appreciate this is a class trying to steer away from people believing there needs to be money spent on the kit cars, if you want that class GT12 is not it in my opinion. The cars handle like turnips when they come out the box, "compared" to all the hop ups applied. At the heart of racing is everyone wants to "compete", "get better" and one day "win" so its a product of the class where hops ups ARE available that make people spend the money on getting better. With this in mind, budgets come in to play but there is in my mind a very clear and concise way to getting your SSGT (because I have not had a zen) to a spec that will race really well and then and only then (in my opinion) do you sit back and race the car and get better at driving... I expect a reply will come in the form of Mark Stiles could drive an out the box car bla bla, but I have many years of being a performance coach that will be able to justify why this is the case.. Not to go on.. but this is a little hobby, full of grown up kids that want a bit of fun... Embrace the competition, and embrace the fact people want to get better and want to spend money along the way if they so choose... Equally, I hope this is taken in the very positive and exciting light it is meant to be; because so far, I have had such fun with GT12. Long may it continue... Off to Rayleigh RC Track this afternoon for some practice with my pals.... Over and out!
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#319
09-07-2015
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Great points guys so we'll not mention the driving bit again - point taken!!
If it were my money... HW v3.1 1S 120A speedo mated to a Trinity D4/Hirosaka/Dynamite Platinum motor with VapexTech LiPo ...and it was my money so that is what I have (Hirosaka motor) and it works really well. Yes, IMHO there is a difference between the pricier stuff and the lower-priced options. If you're in Stu and Bill's camp then these are the things to go for. Motors and speedos turn up every so often on here, and there is always a well-known auction site to search. The VapexTech cells are best bought new from Vapex - their site is easy to use. HTH
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#320
11-07-2015
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Great thread chaps - very useful thank you.
Purchased a SSGT four weeks ago and am loving it. Haven't done any racing for nearly two years and got the itch again - you know how it is  Anyway - I digress. @slowone - I am in a similar quandry to Bill - am running an LRP SXX v2 in blinky with a Dynamite 13.5T with about 35 deg advance on the can. Is there much difference between the HW and the SkyRC or the GForce? Apologies if this has been asked before but they all look to be uncannily similar in looks/construction - is the firmware between them any different and is it only the HW branded one that blinks faster ?Reason I ask is that in my old age, I'm in need of an ESC to help me go backwards when the track markers leap out at me Cheers A
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