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#2
05-05-2007
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SET UPS
Hi Jimmy&Woodsy,Thanks for you great reveiw as always,could you please post a set up for racing on grass with one or two jumps plus a very small bit of tarmac.I am just building theRB5 at presant I intend fitting carbon diff &thrust balls any other mods as I build, will have JR8235 servo MRT speedo checkpoint 12\2 or moneypoint depending on track etc, advice needed urgent, keep up the good work,TEAM OOPLEyou are super stars to the likes of me.
 MARTIN
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#4
20-05-2007
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I stood the front shocks up (because I couldn't be arsed to change the oil) and shortened the front arms like you said, and it was much more responsive, yet more forgiving on the faster stuff (like the hill in the middle of the track).
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#5
21-05-2007
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I'm surprised that there hasn't been much activity on this thread
I finally got to race mine on the weekend at my local track and unfortunately the performance of the car wasn't as great as I'd hoped. It seemed to handle well and had plenty of on-power grip but the car really had a lot of off-power oversteer - basically as soon as you back off the throttle it just pivoted on the front end. I'm hoping that it was due to having too soft tyres on the front because anything I adjusted only made a minor difference. I only have 1 set of front rims, hence I couldn't try any other tyres. This was on a mildly bumpy, low grip loose dirt track. Hopefully i can get some more rims in time for the next raceday.
__________________
Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon
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#6
21-05-2007
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well, iv ran mine for 2 race meetings now, and to be honest i dont know how to set a car up or indeed what i need to do to make a car behave how i want...
However i have experimented with the shocks, heres what i found.... I originally didnt have any spare springs, so i decided to use 50wt oil and std springs, the car was very safe and jumped ok, however it had no low speed steering and really pushed wide on the slightest hint of power. I then acquired some genuine Kyosho lime green springs that were 1 grade higher than the stocks, i dropped the weight of oil all around to 35, and the car was immediately better but oversteered on grass and on tarmac, the back end would just snap back off throttle. To reduce the steering i tried losi black springs at the front. These ideally needed cuting down as they were too long, but i thought id give it a go. The car was indeed better, it understeered on power but could quite easily be driven around Southport. The car also jumped really well and went over the rear bumpy part with ease. I will in future cut the springs down and also try Losi blues. Hope this helps anyone. Col.
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#8
09-08-2008
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Unfortunately it was a one off. Looks like we're one year late, mate
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#9
09-08-2008
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Quote:
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#10
09-08-2008
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RB5 set up.
To start off with we have adaptors for AE type wheels on the rear and alloy axles for the front. Atomic Carbon shock towers front and rear and Atomic Carbon dif balls, plates and thrust race. I have also got a BRASS bulk head at the front from Woody’s Wiz Bits(75g). Front shocks Number ? pistons with 40 wt AE oil and either blue Losi or green Losi springs. Inner at the bottom and second one from the outer at the top( one extra out from the standard tower). The front camber link I have it in the middle on the inner with no washers and the inner on the outside. I have the height washers on the caster blocks at the top to give more ride height. I also have the bulk head at 30’. To make the Losi springs to fit you have to cut two coils off them so this does make the spring slightly stiffer. Rear shocks Number 2C pistons with Losi 25 wt oil and pink springs. I have also put a longer ball end on the end of the shaft to give it more droop(2mm). Inner at the bottom and second from the outer at the top( this is 2 holes out from standard). The camber link I have it on the outer on the hub with about 4 mil washer under ball stud and the inner no washers and on the inner position. The hub height I run it on the highest position and at Bury I ran it long wheel base. Battery position I run it forward. Wing mount. I run it at the highest setting. I also don’t have any dam on the wing. Anti-squat I have played about with this and I have tried to add a washer under the rear block but I don’t think this makes a difference so I started to play with the front block. I have for now just turned the block upside down which does lower the anti-squat about one digree. This makes the car handle the bumps better at fast speed. Ride height I have it about wishbones level at the rear and just below level at the front. I try to have the front lower than the rear as this will give more steering.
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#11
09-08-2008
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tiverton National
RB5 First test at Tiverton National.
We received the car only the Thursday afternoon and we was setting off for the National the following day. Me and Jimmy stayed up till 2am to finish the build and I got up early so I could at least put a pack of batteries through the car. I went to my local track( Bury Metro) and it was dry. I didn’t even have my body shell yet so I was running without it and without the wing. It did feel very fast out of the corners and it did have a lot of grip on the astro. As it wasn’t going over our new jumps very well without the body shell I decided to stop before it broke. Got home and started packing to set off. Saturday morning we got there a little late and my batteries had not charged so I did practice with John Prices B4 and stick trany. Second practice I did manage to get a go, it was NOT set up very well. It was too hard still after me thinking the pistons I had fitted would work and the 25 wt oil sufficient. The car didn’t want to turn in and the rear end would not roll. Round 1, got to the start line and my car with the Brand new Mtroniks brushless system in would not work, so I mist round 1. Round 2, I only changed the speedo and motor back to brushed and I did change the shock angles to try and get it to roll a little more. I also had changed the springs to a softer one as I am using AE springs as I have no spares as yet. Went to brown on the front and green on the rear. Which also should make the car roll a little more for more grip. Round 3, I changed wheel base to a longer setting so the rear end would come round a little better, changed the inner rear camber ball stud to a higher setting which should also make the rear pivot more but this was still not quick. Round 4, I changed wheel base to long, the outer ball stud to a higher setting which does the same as lowering the inner ball stud and stud the front shocks right up to try and get more grip from the front but this still was not on the pace. At this time I was not in a good mood as I had high expectations for this first outing and when I went to find out what final I had ended up in as I tend not to look at the results all day to keep focused on driving smooth and not worrying about having to make 2 good rounds. I ended up 3rd in the C main. I was not expecting that as I thought it was going worse than that. C’main, I did change the pistons in the rear to the biggest holes to try and make the rear suspension move going round corners, lowered the inner rear ball stud on the camber link which is ment to give more grip. I also trimed the rear wing down to try and give more steering under power and this was the best the car was all day. I won the final and I was very pleased with how it drove. If the day was on FTD and not round by round the time in the final would of put me middle of the A’main. All in all, it was NOT a B4 as I have drove for a good 3 or 4 years now but I think with time it will keep up with it if not beat it sometimes. I did find it has a lot of rear end grip and it does take the bumps. It does jump nice and flat and it is easy to work on. The quality is also very good and just to let you all know there is not a positive screw in sight. They are all hex screws.
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#12
09-08-2008
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RB5 at Southport 29th April 2007.
It was a very nice day and it was dry from the word go. I started practice with half worn yellow minis on just to try. I had AE blue springs on with 2b pistons and 25 wt oil in the front. I had Kyosho silvers and 2a pistons with 25wt oil in the rear. I had the front camber link on the inner point of the outer position and the middle on the inner position. I had no washers under the inner ball stud at the front. The rear was on the inner of the outer position and the middle on the inner with 1 washer under the ball stud. I had it on long wheel base and the rear wing with 2 segments on. It was not so good in practice but I had all day to try things out. Round 1. For this round I changed the shock position on the front from middle at the top to outer and this is ment to give a little more front end but it wasn’t much better. I did manage to get the car air bourne and come down on the rear shock tower on a concrete corner and it obviously broke( find pic in report ). Round 2. For this round I changed the front shock position again from the outer hole at the bottom to the inner hole which I am still trying to get some front end under power. This was still not good enough but I did manage to finish. Round 3. I put a new set of yellow mini spike on, changed the front top shock position to the middle, went up 5 wt in oil and this was starting to make the car a little more responsive but still not on pace. Round 4. For this one I did something I don’t normal do and it was to change a lot of things at once. I went up to 40wt oil in the front and changed the front camber link to long on the outer position which is ment give the tyre more weight on the wheel so more grip. I also went to a shorter link on the rear to try and get rid of some of this MEGA grip from the rear. I also wound down the rear shock ball end to give alittle more droop, changed the front springs to Losi greens (which u do have to cut down 2 coils to fit ), and Losi reds on the rear. I have been struggling with trying to get the car to pivot round the corners and in this round is was like a different car. Yes it was still slightly power under steering but not as much as previously. This put me in 4th place on the A main behind Tricky ( home track ), Danny Magoo ( spent a lot of time down here ) and Stu Mahon ( very quick round here ). I was very happy being behind these guys as they are 2 Losi A’Team drivers and a best friend to 1. A Main. For the final all I did was add an extra washer under the rear inner ball stud on the camber link which is ment to take grip off the back. It didn’t start off very well due to some drivers cutting corners at there home track and then kindle took me out. I was then trying to keep it smooth because anything can happen in 5 minutes and it did. The car was almost some where there. It was the best its been so far. It was still slightly power understeering but it was on the pace at last. In the end everybody else kept crashing and I kept it on its wheels and finished up second behind Tricky. Well happy with the result. Really happy with the car heading in the wright direction and now we have now got a good base to start from.
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KYOSHO
and is the front brass bulkhead available to buy or was it a one off?
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