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Old 05-08-2010
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Default installing the cf braket in B44 ?

Hi,

well righltly or wrongly I'm making the move to Lipo- don't feel too reassured with all the risks associated with Lipo but we'll see.

I got a cf braket that replace the 2 brakets that supported the Nimh batteries in order to install the Lipo saddle pack. That braket came in one piece but doesn't slide across the car and by the look of it I either cut it in the middle and attach each side (as was for the brakets for the Nimh) or I need to take off the whole rear end, slide the braket in position and then re-attach the rear end of the car.

Option 1 of cutting the braket in 2 seems the easiest and quickest and should work too since the previous brakets for the Nimh were in 2 parts anyway. But I'm reluctant in cutting a cf piece as keeping it in one piece will keep it stronger.

Option 2 avoid cutting the braket but gosh it seems hard work just to slide the braket

Any advice on how to install this cf braket for lipo welcome
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Old 05-08-2010
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Default

option 3. remove the slipper and the screws holding the rear centre bulkhead to the chassis and slide it in using the flex of the chassis
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Old 05-08-2010
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or just take off the front rear suspension mount.who manufacured the lipo cradle?
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Old 05-08-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony6187 View Post
or just take off the front rear suspension mount.who manufacured the lipo cradle?
Sure??

As already said, remove the slipper and the mount or remove the rear end. Shouldn't more than 10mins to do. Once it's in should never need to be removed.

There's minimal risk with lipo, I've seen zero lipo related issues trackside, where I've seen a few nimh cells blow up!!

MiCk B. :-)
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Old 05-08-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiCk B. View Post
Sure??

As already said, remove the slipper and the mount or remove the rear end. Shouldn't more than 10mins to do. Once it's in should never need to be removed.

There's minimal risk with lipo, I've seen zero lipo related issues trackside, where I've seen a few nimh cells blow up!!

MiCk B. :-)
havnt looked at my b44 in a while so my recollection may be wrong
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Old 05-08-2010
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cheers,

went with option 3 and after removing the 5 screws and gently flexing the rear I managed to slide the cradle and now I'm finishing to wire the flex for the lipo.

thanks for ur help
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RC10 B44 - for sale with new body and few parts
RC10 T4 - SP stock club (once it'll work), Tekin 10.5T, Lipo 2s 5000mah 40c, 2.4Ghz
HPI e-firestorm GTB esc, Novak SS 10.5T, Lipo 2s 5800mah 40c, 2.4 Ghz

RC Sailboats are also coooool
Check out www.iomireland.org
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Old 05-08-2010
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Any recommendation before the first charge on the lipo ?

I presume a charge at 1c until fully charged ?
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RC10 B44 - for sale with new body and few parts
RC10 T4 - SP stock club (once it'll work), Tekin 10.5T, Lipo 2s 5000mah 40c, 2.4Ghz
HPI e-firestorm GTB esc, Novak SS 10.5T, Lipo 2s 5800mah 40c, 2.4 Ghz

RC Sailboats are also coooool
Check out www.iomireland.org
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Old 05-08-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiCk B. View Post
Sure??

As already said, remove the slipper and the mount or remove the rear end. Shouldn't more than 10mins to do. Once it's in should never need to be removed.

There's minimal risk with lipo, I've seen zero lipo related issues trackside, where I've seen a few nimh cells blow up!!

MiCk B. :-)
I'll side with mick on this. I know at fmt we had a few issues with nimh's but none with lipo's . We've all been using lipo's for the last 2-3 years or so.

For a first charge, just do it like a normal charge! Charge up at 1C and balance!
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Old 05-08-2010
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will do cheers
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RC10 B44 - for sale with new body and few parts
RC10 T4 - SP stock club (once it'll work), Tekin 10.5T, Lipo 2s 5000mah 40c, 2.4Ghz
HPI e-firestorm GTB esc, Novak SS 10.5T, Lipo 2s 5800mah 40c, 2.4 Ghz

RC Sailboats are also coooool
Check out www.iomireland.org
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  #10  
Old 05-08-2010
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As said 1C is generally the max charge rate for Lipo.

Make sure the charger is on Lipo mode!!

How they charge: At the set charge rate until the voltage reaches 8.4V, then the current is dropped, keeping the cell voltage at 8.4V, charger will cut off when the charge rate is around .5A or so. (This is the industry standard charge method for lipos, CCCV, constant current, constant voltage.)

Don't keep running them until the car stops, that will cause damage to the lipo. After the run just charge them up again.

If you're unsure, just ask track side.

MiCk B. :-)
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