Driveshaft disengaging on FS2

[/tobys]

Ran FS2 yesterday (until it got too wet) and it was great in practice.

However, I noticed after R1 (which I only 1/2 completed due to shoddy tyre gluing LOL) that the front centre driveshaft had become disengaged from the plastic drive cup.

Looking at it, there is quite a bit of movement possible there and unlike the rear, there is no method for adjustment. To reduce the available movement, I was planning to put a small piece of fuel pipe into the drive cup.

Anyone else had this problem and/or see any issues with my solution?

[njc11]

You should have the little white plastic part in the spur gear side outdrive..

Its the same part you would use in differential outdrive which is found on the parts tree of LA200..

http://www.infernosonly.com/Kyosho_D...p/kyola200.htm

HTH

Nick

[mattb]

I think nearly everyone i know me included missed this and trashed the front gearbox drive cup lol

[Gayo]

+1

[/tobys]

yes, thats my problem!

thanks all

[chatts#725]

Originally Posted by Gayo

+1

+2

[RogerM]

read the instructions ... make a cuppa then read them again

[Neil Skull]

I am always amazed at how many people miss that!!!

Mainly on the centre diff.

As Roger Says. !!!!!!READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!!!

[mattb]

Originally Posted by RogerM

read the instructions ... make a cuppa then read them again

Thats boring just start building and sort any issues out as you go along lol

[RogerM]

Not just me then Neil. I have a rule with anything new, not just car kits but electronics etc too.
When I buy them first thing I do is open the box, dig out the instructions (and shell if it's a car kit) then take everything else to my mother's who I only see once a week or so .... if I want to enjoy anything about my new purchase all I have available is reading the instructions ... usually several times.

By the time I get the item back I feel like I have known it for a long time and strangely I never seem to have any 'odd issues' with my stuff.

Actually with the model car kits I go a step further and when I get the kit back in my hands I take out the diff and shock bags (usually the most important things to spend time on) and leave the rest at work under my desk so on the first night I can only do the performance critical components.

Works a treat but takes a while .... I actually bought my RB5-SP2 before Xmas and so far still have only built the shocks (then again I have been working 75+ hours a week and trying to prep a house for sale too!)

Some people used to take the mick that it took me circa 50 hours to fully prep and build a Pred ... but I always laughed when their XX4/CAT/Yokomo fell to pieces AGAIN at a meeting when my "fragile" car hadn't been touched for months
Thankfully that sort of thing is in the past with Kyosho's fantastic quality!

[RudeTony]

I never look at the instructions and Neil is educating me slowly by placing the instruction book, open on the appropriate page, nicely on my pit towel.......like a 'hint hint' type affair

[Neil Skull]

Thats True Tony,
I think i helped 3 or 4 peeps over the weekend whipping out the manual.
I remember the look of shock and horror on many faces, women screaming when a man produced a manual and actually read it


Without a manual a model car kit is simply a puzzle!!!!! well to me anyway.

I have to say Roger as an Engineer myself i would have thought 50 hours is a bit excessive to build a kit!!! Maybe this explains your long working hours??

[RogerM]

Neil, obviously never built an old school Pred ... the mouldings were all shocking!!!

The list went as follows;

1) clock out and mill chassis in gearbox sealing surface areas so that they were flat (never saw a flat one from the factory) and had the correct closed profile to hold the bearings without compressing them (usually they were lose on one side, sloppy on the other and sloppy on the pinion.

2) same as above but to the gearbox tops

3) epoxy the holes for the front shock mounts and both front and rear hinge pins then redrill so they were parallel and in the correct positions (changing base geometry at the rear and allowing some antisquat adjustment too)

4) Helicoil ALL screw holes as some where always oversize before you even cut the first thread

5) "gap" the inboard hinge pin area of the wishbones, sometimes you had to epoxy and line bore the holes (I normally used a slightly thicker pin too as you were modifying every piece anyway).

That took a while to get that right and usually I would do 5-10 sets of everything, there were always plenty of pred people who wanted a sorted car


Thankfully with the Kyosho stuff the most that is ever required is the occassional de-flash to get perfect fit .... even then it's probably me being over sensitive .. Kyosho quality makes everything else look unfinished IMHO.

[andybulmer]

a small slither of fuel tube at each end stops the drive shaft from moving. and also stops the ends from wearing badly. this works! have been using this method since optima days when all we had was dogbone drive shafts (which would pop out)