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  #161  
Old 17-01-2013
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Its only the front block that moves up and down with the shims.
I'm 99.9% sure as I only worked that out early tonight.
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  #162  
Old 17-01-2013
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cant be otherwise the rear block would have been made to not need spacers.

putting shims on top of the front block does not alter the antisquat. it tilts the gearbox which does nothing put put everything out of place
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  #163  
Old 17-01-2013
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Take everything off and with just the box and blocks play around with the shims on the front block.
it does seem the rear block is made wrong but leave the 0 shim on the top at the rear. Nothing fits underneath.
And the other shims do make up various angle.
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  #164  
Old 17-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sly View Post
Take everything off and with just the box and blocks play around with the shims on the front block.
it does seem the rear block is made wrong but leave the 0 shim on the top at the rear. Nothing fits underneath.
And the other shims do make up various angle.

I understand what you are saying, but its not physically possible.

If you run the 0 on top of rear block, and thickest under the front, you have what is clearly supposed to be 3 degrees anti squat.

If you reduce the front spacer, but leave the 0 on the rear, then yes you reduce anti squat, but you also make the gearbox tilt forward, which alters the shock alignment, and moves ballstuds etc.

If as you say you put shims on TOP of the front block, then this does not alter the hinge pin angle, and therefore does not change the angle of antisquat. it merely tilts the gearbox.

Maybe im missing something here, but the idea of having front and rear spacers is to set the anti squat, but also keep the gearbox in a level position
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  #165  
Old 17-01-2013
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OMG I think I finally get it.
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  #166  
Old 17-01-2013
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Take the front shim and its size is approximately 2mm and gives 3degrees.take that front 2mm shim and replace it with the thinness long shim approximately 0.5mm place it under the front block, the short double pimple shim approximately 1.5mm on top of the front block and then your back to the same height as the 3degree setting but have 1degree
the more I think and look at my carits the only way it can go.
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  #167  
Old 17-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s22jgs View Post
OMG I think I finally get it.
Was I right lol?
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  #168  
Old 17-01-2013
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i dunno lol

it seems a bit arse about face but yeh 0 on the rear at all times and a combo to equal the same 3mm combined spacing on front
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  #169  
Old 18-01-2013
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im used to having bleeder caps on my shocks.. (maybe ive been spoilt)

would cutting the bladder work on these shocks
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  #170  
Old 18-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cigbunt View Post
im used to having bleeder caps on my shocks.. (maybe ive been spoilt)

would cutting the bladder work on these shocks
i wouldnt as the hole at top of cap is not sealed with the plastic mount

They are easy to build though
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  #171  
Old 18-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s22jgs View Post
i wouldnt as the hole at top of cap is not sealed with the plastic mount

They are easy to build though
how do you adjust the rebound?
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  #172  
Old 18-01-2013
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if you want full rebound, then shaft fully extended when you put bladder and cap on

no rebound push it pretty much all the way in before bladder and cap go on.

basically, however far the shaft is extended when you put the bladder and cap on, is how far it should push back out.
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  #173  
Old 18-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s22jgs View Post
if you want full rebound, then shaft fully extended when you put bladder and cap on

no rebound push it pretty much all the way in before bladder and cap go on.

basically, however far the shaft is extended when you put the bladder and cap on, is how far it should push back out.
didn't think of it like that genius
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  #174  
Old 22-01-2013
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I bought one!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20130119_165442.jpg (337.4 KB, 128 views)
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File Type: jpg IMG_20130119_165207.jpg (331.1 KB, 111 views)
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  #175  
Old 24-01-2013
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Jimmy has made us a Hobao Forum

maybe this thread can be moved there?
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  #176  
Old 30-01-2013
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Default Anti squat shims

I've noticed some confusion regarding the anti squat shims.

The shims should be considered as pairs, one round ended and one square, each measuring the same thickness.

The rounded shim should should be fitted on top of the rear block the square one should be fitted below the front block.

As long as the same thickness shim is used front and rear the gearbox will remain level and only the hinge pin angle will change.

My kit only came with two options (0 and 1) but if you look at the parts diagram in the manual it shows 3 different pairs. (Hence the 3 settings on the set up page)

HTH
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  #177  
Old 31-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Getpip View Post
I've noticed some confusion regarding the anti squat shims.

The shims should be considered as pairs, one round ended and one square, each measuring the same thickness.

The rounded shim should should be fitted on top of the rear block the square one should be fitted below the front block.

As long as the same thickness shim is used front and rear the gearbox will remain level and only the hinge pin angle will change.

My kit only came with two options (0 and 1) but if you look at the parts diagram in the manual it shows 3 different pairs. (Hence the 3 settings on the set up page)

HTH
Not strictly correct... its all above.

You have to run the 0 curved shim on top of the rear block at all times.

You use the square shims under the front block, 1, 2 and 3mm for 1, 2 and 3 degrees of antisquat.

If you run 3 degrees of antisquat, then you do not need a shim on top of the front block.

If you run 2 degrees, then you need 1mm on top of front block.

And likewise, is you run 1 degree then you need 2mm on top of the front block.

Basically, both the front and the rear must be a total of 3mm of inserts. Otherwise the chassis bends round the bottom of the gearbox and induces a loss of antisquat, or as I found, positive antisquat.
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  #178  
Old 31-01-2013
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It's not as complicated as that.
The shims are marked 0, 1 and 2. (And come in pairs, one of each shape)
Whatever size shim you use on top of the rear block use the corresponding size shim under the front block. (Not on top) This keeps the total height of front and rear blocks the same.
If you do this the gearbox will remain level but the hinge pin angle (anti squat) will change.
The thicker the shims the greater the anti squat.
Give it a try.
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  #179  
Old 31-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Getpip View Post
It's not as complicated as that.
The shims are marked 0, 1 and 2. (And come in pairs, one of each shape)
Whatever size shim you use on top of the rear block use the corresponding size shim under the front block. (Not on top) This keeps the total height of front and rear blocks the same.
If you do this the gearbox will remain level but the hinge pin angle (anti squat) will change.
Give it a try.
i think ill find it is. I thought as u say at first but it causes the chassis to bend.

the idea is to keep the gearbox the same height, not just level
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  #180  
Old 31-01-2013
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Well as long as you've found something that works for you it's all good.
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