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  #21  
Old 08-01-2013
Gavin Collingwood Gavin Collingwood is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pitman Ed View Post
Cremegg,
The risk is you will get confused with all these differing views and recommendations. Take advice from someone who experienced and is delivering on the track when you are there. But generally:
Regarding ESC punch setting, read the instructions carefully. Manufacturers differ - 30% can mean 30% punch, or it can mean 30% limiting!
Batteries - I've found packs with a higher C rating to be more reliable over a longer period. When new, smaller C rating perform ok. By choice I'd say at least 50C at 4000mah.
Choice of 2wd car - choose something popular at the club. You'll get help with spares and set up.
Motor - a modern 8.5t is the best all rounder. You can quieten it down regarding punch, and you can wind it up on a long straight. It's pointless working hard to get past someone in the infield, only to have then fly past you on the straight!
Enjoy your racing.
Hang on we've two threads getting confused here, creme egg you really should start a new thread rather than taking over someone else's
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  #22  
Old 08-01-2013
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Cremegg Cremegg is offline
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i know sorry gav, ive got a habit of doing this now, it wont happen again

i guess if one of the moderators could delete my posts or move them to a new thread (im not to sure how it works)

sorry again guys
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  #23  
Old 08-01-2013
dougher dougher is offline
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Hey no problem, the stuff you're talking about is helpful to me to anyway :-)
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  #24  
Old 08-01-2013
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Lee1972 Lee1972 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tisher View Post
I am still running 25c cells in my 2wd and still put it in the A final every time I run it
I would look for a 2nd hand esc lrp sxx tc spec are cheap now and you can buy upgrade kits to make them right up to date I just put one together for less than 60quid
I would invest your money in a 210 because no matter how good you used to be you will not be A final competitive unless you run a modern car
motor wise 7.5t to 8.5t for 2wd 6.5 to 5.5t for 4wd running 25c cells will take the punch out of a lower wind motor anyway I run a 6.5t in my b4 with out any issue
Martin,
Did you fit your LRP with the new stock mod and did you use a UK supplier? Reason for me asking is that I've been looking but can only find them on the continent.
Lee
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  #25  
Old 09-01-2013
dougher dougher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gavin Collingwood View Post
I'd highly recommend you spend as much as you can afford on your speedo. The Orion R10 is truly superb and Orion have brilliant customer service and is very reliable. As for motor wind either 7.5 or 8.5 no quicker than 7.5 in 2WD though so depends on your experience coming back into it. As for a car after you xx I'd say it depends on your budget all the cars have pros and cons
Schumacher sv2 is fast but brittle and you need a lot of optional parts to get it quick
Losi 22 is strong as a tank but if it rains or you race on indoor slippy floor in winter the car becomes a right handful
Centro is a very fast car but is brittle and expensive and is a bit bodgy as its a conversion car.
Kyosho rb6 is a fantastic car that's tough and fast and has all the adjustability included with the kit without the need to buy a load of optional parts, but at £370 it's not cheap.
The Durango 210 requires you to have a PHD to build it's simply awful diff and has poor part quality and poor instruction manual but when you buy a load of optional extras the car is quick too
Food for thought! Sounds like no car is 'the best one'! I've had a couger 2000 in the past - and loved it. I loved my losi xx too, but it is a lot heavier than the couger I had.
I'm not worried about building the 210, but the dodgy parts and poor diff worries me - is there an upgrade diff?

I've now ordered the electrics, so will give the losi xx a bash when they arrive, and decide on the new car when I've seen a few more racing at Bury, perhaps people might be kind enough to let me take one round the track once?!
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  #26  
Old 09-01-2013
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Si Coe Si Coe is offline
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I've not seen any dodgy parts on 210's except the stupid ball diff - and thats easily replaced with the strong, durable gear diff so thats not an issue.
Lots of the 210's at the club have all sorts of upgrades - but its mostly cos there are some gorgeous aftermarket parts for Durangos and we are all RC magpies. In truth the standard car goes well enough.
When you consider the abuse mine or Johnny's gets subjected to the 210 is certainly robust.

Truth is that all these are niggles anyway. All the cars Gavin mentioned have people at Bury who've had issues with them, and people who haven't (except the RB6 because Gav's is the only one and he can't really claim its robust because its never actually finished a race!) so none of them are serious flaws.
All of them have a few faults, but are fundamentally good cars.
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