DEX 210 Building Tips/Issues

[kabilay]

There are many posts regarding DEX210, but since many of you started building the Kit it could be useful to use this thread reporting building tips and issues found during the process, for us still waiting for the kits to arrive.

Thanks

[Bungleaio]

I have only done bag A so far and it's gone together without issue.

[TonyM]

When building the diff I scratched my head for a bit as to what the circlip clips on to, then realised you have to compress it and push it inside the inner hole of the outdrive.

There is a groove inside in which it seats into.

[MikePimlott]

Some of the part numbers in the manual for plastic bits during the build are incorrect. Square floor piece, servo link ball ends.

The plastic inserts for the caster stumped me a bit not a great description of the options and how to fit in the manual.

2xM3x10 button head screws for the front axles in bag B was missing.

Other than that so far so good.

[phil c]

I also had the screws missing for the front stub axles , also one of the gold washers for the inner ball Stud is a diffrent thickness to the other three ?

[sly]

lots of zip lock bags but one stands out from the rest, the shock caps, i wonder if that was the holdup

@ Mike, The inserts are just like the old schumacher inserts but better as these have the option sizes on them so even i can understand.

on the rear brace, is the two center holes which you use for to hole the rear fixings of the gear box (MID) down with, Are they suppose to be through holes and not taped?

Very chuncky strong feel to it.

Cream will soon have a new Part to make

[TonyM]

Originally Posted by sly

Cream will soon have a new Part to make

Si - I think I know the part you mean.

[Adam Skelding]

Originally Posted by MikePimlott

Some of the part numbers in the manual for plastic bits during the build are incorrect. Square floor piece, servo link ball ends.

The plastic inserts for the caster stumped me a bit not a great description of the options and how to fit in the manual.

2xM3x10 button head screws for the front axles in bag B was missing.

Other than that so far so good.

There are spare M3 x 10 Button head screws in bag F. It seems they have migrated to this bag..

[MikePimlott]

Originally Posted by Adam Skelding

There are spare M3 x 10 Button head screws in bag F. It seems they have migrated to this bag..

I had some spare from the 410 i built last week but its good that people now know they are in the box

[Adam Skelding]

We've spotted a couple of issues with the manual.

Step 29.
The MM rear bumper is missing from the instrcution manual it can be found on the 310121 Sprue @ tag #3.

The 320128-6 bushes don’t fit, there was a part number error in the manual.
These should be the 310257-4 bushes that are on the gearbox mould, there are 3 of them on there.

The pistons shown in the manual are switched for the kit set-up, the fronts should be 1.2mm and the rear should be 1.3mm.

These are being fixed for the on-line version.

If you do have any issues with missing parts in the kit, please contact support@team-durango.com

Please make sure you include the following items in your e-mail:

1. The Issue.
2. Your kit serial number (the little yellow sticker on the box)
3. Where you bought it from.

[mikeyscott]

What axle position are uk people opting for. Trailing or inline?

[IceMike]

The setup from the team at worksop is online, thats a good place to start atm

[Hulk]

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

What axle position are uk people opting for. Trailing or inline?

Depends on the track. We used trailing outdoors so far, but me and Nathan tried inline at Worksop.

Inline makes the steering more responsive giving a very direct feel. This proved to be useful at Worksop as the track was so tight and technical, with quick change of direction needed.

Fully inline was a little too much so we settled with number 2 block, which is in the middle of the two.

Worth having a play around to see which you prefer.

[mikeyscott]

Hi

Thanks. First outing likely to be open, flowing torch and then MK gp.

Mike

[Bungleaio]

Is there anywhere saying what inserts in the hubs gives which value? I'm confused as to which one I should be using to get what level of toe or caster.

[4_cell_racer]

Originally Posted by Bungleaio

Is there anywhere saying what inserts in the hubs gives which value? I'm confused as to which one I should be using to get what level of toe or caster.

Same here :-/ also the fronts
feel a right newb but have not use inserts before!

[mikeyscott]

First issue of the build. Ships for the shock/piston don't fit. 709009

[steel]

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

First issue of the build. Ships for the shock/piston don't fit. 709009

They are very tight but if you use the screw and piston it should take it down

[Adam Skelding]

Here's the Shock Build guide we posted for the 'Slim' Bore shocks.
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...k-build-guide/

The principle is exactly the same....

As your shocks will be new. Run the car a few times and then unscrew the bleed screw and perform the bleed processs again... This can help in stopping your car feeling really hard at the extent of up travel.

If your car feels wierd during a meeting when it seemed fine before, this can sometimes be the problem.. A slight build up of air occurs over time and it's a good idea to do the bleed process at the start of a meeting if you know the set-up is good, then it will stay consistent through the meeting.

[acorn28]

Finally finished building my 210, looks a cracking car and looking forward to getting out on the track. One issue I discovered last night is the right rear wheel is unable to fully rotate when the suspension is at full compression and full extension. When fully compressed the wheel rotation is forcing the suspension back down and vice versa.

I'm guessing its something simple, but my tired eyes and brain couldn't spot anything obvious. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.