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#461
25-01-2011
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I believe ALL 502 kits include wing and body.
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#462
25-01-2011
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Mine came with a shell and 201 wings in the kit also.
At the weekend, the car was superb, it just got faster and faster each run until the one that counted and then the driver choked!! lol liking the 502 
__________________
~ICON-RC~ATOMIC CARBON~LMR~TONISPORT~NUCLEAR RC~
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#463
25-01-2011
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I'm liking the fact that there's a lot of encouraging reports on here about the 502. I'm running mine for the first time on Sunday.
Here's a couple of pics of my 2wd and 4wd. All painting done by www.mgpaint.co.uk Scotty....
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#464
27-01-2011
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This may be a silly question to many but I've not saw many shops stocking spares for the TRF502X and was wondering due to the fact that it shares a lot of parts with 501 and 511, are the shock towers all the same on these cars?
Thank you in advance Scotty....
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#467
06-02-2011
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Well, finally played around with the steering on mine today, searching for more steering lock (was running at Broxtowe, lots of tight corners!!). I moved my ball studs to the outer Ackerman link, switched to 5x8 instead of kit 5x5 ball studs (remember to use grub screws to strengthen unused holes!), and spaced the ball stuff forward with 3mm of spacers! Definitely helped get more lock, before I next run it will try and get it sorted even better though, wasn't quite getting same lock left to right, think due to servo horn position at neutral!
Next 2 things I want to look at, first is camber change when loaded up, have noticed myself and had a few other people mention now, there's a hell of a lot of camber change when loadedup in corners, what can I do to reduce this? I currently run inner ballstuds as low as possible and 3.5mm outside front and rear!? What should I change to reduce camber change?? Finally, hate the steering slop from the bearings being loose inside the steering bridge, have I heard before you can get tape or something to put around the bearings to make it more snug in these situations? How would I do that?? Oooh, one more, anyone think the new grey ballcups have more play in them than the old black ones??
__________________
Dave "Amish FJ" Gibson RB Products ~ Yokomo Nuclear RC ~ Xpert ~ Hacker
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#468
06-02-2011
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I use Tamiya blue threadlock on the outside/inside of bearings to take up the slop. I put a thin film on and let it go off, then it should be a nice fit when it goes in but will still let the bearing come out when needed
__________________
Mark Dyson Clown
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#469
07-02-2011
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plumbing tape !
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#471
07-02-2011
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yep teflon tape, can get it at any hardware store.
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#473
07-02-2011
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Quote:
__________________
Gareth Stanton
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#474
07-02-2011
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Your so helpfull Gaz!
__________________
WWW.SERVOSHOP.CO.UK
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#475
07-02-2011
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If you mean what I think you mean then make the inner studs the same height as the ones in the hubs and make the top link as long as possible. That should give the least amount of camber change
.
__________________
Mark Dyson Clown
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#476
07-02-2011
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Quote:
__________________
Gareth Stanton
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#477
07-02-2011
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Quote:
__________________
Dave "Amish FJ" Gibson RB Products ~ Yokomo Nuclear RC ~ Xpert ~ Hacker
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#478
13-04-2011
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To be announced at Shizuoka:
Buggy HL Aeration Oil Filled Damper Set 3/32 inch Ceramic Diff Ball Set (12 pcs) Tungsten Balls for Thrust Bearing (8 pcs)
__________________
http://kentech.blogs.se
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#479
18-04-2011
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Quote:
So, who ran the 502 at Stotfold and how did you find it??
__________________
Dave "Amish FJ" Gibson RB Products ~ Yokomo Nuclear RC ~ Xpert ~ Hacker
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#480
18-04-2011
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No big bores, you get HL dampers cylinders instead of "standard" ones.
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Tamiya
Linear Mode
