Mad Monkey/Mad Rat battery tray size

[Nathanio]

Hi,

I have sold my MERV and going to move onto a 2WD buggy as I have done the 4WD truck thing (for) now.

I have been looking at the Mad Rat and Mad Monkey as they come as kits and are pretty cheap so would be a perfect throw in the back of car for work car. The issue I have is that I have 4 x Turnigy 5200MAh 2s 30c hard case LiPos which I want to use (also used in my H7e) so battery tray size is important.

Can anyone measure the inside of a battery tray of a Mad Rat/Monkey for me? My LiPos are 139 x 46 x 26mm

Do people have a preference or input on which would be the better model?

I am also wondering which motor people would recommend for it; Hobbywing 8.5T 4000Kv or 9T 4300Kv? I will be using my ol'faithful MTroniks G2 Pro in it.

Where can I get the stronger T Piece?

Thanks

Nathan

[jpmatrix]

Hi nathan.

I have just completed building the mad monkey and transfered all my electronics from my madrat.

Comparing the two there is alot more space to fit the electronics in the mad monkey. I have a speed passion 2.0lrp and with the cooling fan it sits comfortably under the shell. You couldnt do it in the madrat without taking the fan off.

I also just bought a turnigy 5000mah 40c lipo and the measurements are exactly the same as you described. Its a snug fit but sits in nicely and there is a recess in the chassis to put lead /brass weights right were the battery sits without raising the battery pack. The wiring comes out the side of the pack so it pushes the body out a bit but its fine. I will get some pics up.

I also have 5000mah 20c lipo turnigy and fits in with loads of space. The battery leads come out the toop so fits in better.

I would go for the mad monkey mainly because there is much more space to lay the electronics in the chassis.

I use a 7.5t sp v2 motor and thats fast enough for me.



James


James

[damselfly]

Mad Rat battery tray = 142x48x21mm with a 1% tolerance.
I can fit an SMC LiPo of 136x45x21 nice and snugly.
Unsure about the Monkey as I don't own one.

[jpmatrix]

Madmonkey battery tray is 142mm by 48mm

Height can be adjusted as the battery posts have three positions that the pin can locate through for the battery strap. As said before i can fit lipo with 26mm height.

[Cameo]

Originally Posted by Nathanio

Can anyone measure the inside of a battery tray of a Mad Rat/Monkey for me? My LiPos are 139 x 46 x 26mm

Do people have a preference or input on which would be the better model?

I am also wondering which motor people would recommend for it; Hobbywing 8.5T 4000Kv or 9T 4300Kv? I will be using my ol'faithful MTroniks G2 Pro in it.

Where can I get the stronger T Piece?

Yes they'll fit. I use a Fantom 5000/50C its 136 x 46 x 25/26 (see pic)

I have not tried the mid mount yet but I run on dirt. What surface will you be using?

49T 300Kv or higher like a 10.5 so much smoother and easier to drive. Unless you just want straight line speed then go the 8.5

T piece http://www.tcmodels.net/index.php?pa...mart&Itemid=71

[Nathanio]

Hi Guys,

Thanks ever so much for your help and assistance with my questions.

Looks like the Monkey is preferred as from what I understand it has less problems around the t-piece. Is this true?

I am going to be running on a variety of surfaces; grass, gravel and tarmac. This will be a pure bashing car and to be used for a giggle.

I think I may stick with with the 9T motor as I want to be nippy but not over powered; I have a Hyper7e for that

I had a MERV and it was just too much power and just a bit too much for such a small size!

I prefer gear diffs for simplicity of maintaining them and more setup and leave unlike a ball diff; Can I get one for either of them?

I shall order up some bits soon!

[adamjimny]

Originally Posted by Cameo

T piece http://www.tcmodels.net/index.php?pa...mart&Itemid=71

this is only for the mad rat mad monkey is different

carbon t piece isn't really needed tbh iv never broke mine

[Cameo]

Originally Posted by Nathanio

Hi Guys,

Thanks ever so much for your help and assistance with my questions.

Looks like the Monkey is preferred as from what I understand it has less problems around the t-piece. Is this true?
It's the old T piece that had the problems. The new one's just fine. I use the carbon one on high grip tracks only as a tuning option.

I am going to be running on a variety of surfaces; grass, gravel and tarmac. This will be a pure bashing car and to be used for a giggle.
Mid mount (monkey) quite stable the Rat will probably be more fun, donuts wheel stands etc

I think I may stick with with the 9T motor as I want to be nippy but not over powered; I have a Hyper7e for that
haha

I had a MERV and it was just too much power and just a bit too much for such a small size!

I prefer gear diffs for simplicity of maintaining them and more setup and leave unlike a ball diff; Can I get one for either of them?
They both require similar maintenance but I'm unaware of a gear diff for this car

I shall order up some bits soon!

Read above

[Nathanio]

Thanks guys, appreciated. I will be ordering up my bits for it tomorrow

Apart from Bearing kit anything else worth getting?

Nathan

[jpmatrix]

You can upgrade your diff balls with ceramic balls.

You can get them at rclazy.com

http://rclazy.com/shop/lazyballs/laz...ic-diff-balls/

I have installed these and the diff is so much smoother than using the stock balls.

[Nathanio]

Thought'd i'd give an update to this thread

I have build it up over the last week and today gave it its first run today at work








I have fitted the following:

• Screw hinge pins rather than E-Clips
• EZrun 8.5T geared with a 25T pinion
• BlueBird 10.6KG metal geared servo
• HK-3000 Rx (which will be going into a waterproof box)
• Fastrax Arrow wheels (rears all round)
• Ball bearing kit
• Locked ball diff

I did have some fun with the front arms binding on the arm carrier so required some trimming with a knife and sandpaper to get smooth action in the arms.

It is rather insane with a 4000Kv motor in it and I struggled to get the power down with the Arrow wheels (especially on loose gravel ) What i'd really like is some Nanda block type tyres for the rear

I spent 20 minutes running it and took approx 3200MAh from my 5200MAh 2s batteries so it is nice and efficient. Motor was only just warm after this time. I spent more time playing today than I had with my MERV in 3 months! I'll glue up the stock tyres this weekend and go down to the park for a play.

I would really like to get a gear diff for it so I can get some diff action as the locked ball diff provides no diff really. Trying to find a 1/10th buggy that has a gear diff and not a ball diff

Anyway it has been a fun build and a great fun driving it. I had forgotten how rewarding a 2wd buggy can be

I have used this every day this weekend I am getting around 40 minutes of run time from a 5200MAh LiPo. I think the motor is revving out so I need to go up a tooth or so to stop that. Motor and ESC are warm to hot after 40 minutes of running on grass. I also need to get some spikes for the front as the ribs don't work well on grass under power! I end up with power on understeer but lots of steering off power. The Arrows can't contain the power even on smooth tarmac! Donuts galore

I have curbed it at speed and rolled it and touch wood not broken anything bar the rear lexan wing and a crack in the body shell.

It has re-ignited my passion in the hobby

I am going to order a 24 and 26T pinion to play with and need to think about crash tubes for the front and rear wheels to stop binding. I think I need to tighten the slipper slightly too.

[smarkham]

Would also be worth replacing the shocks as they are plastic the cx2 ones fit though and are awesome super smooth

[Nathanio]

The shocks seem to be holding up fine for me at the moment; I think i'll replace them when they leak/break. As I all I do is go down the park with it then I am happy with the shocks at the moment

[smarkham]

The standard shocks will be fine as long as the caps are nice and tight

[XxSwainy96xX]

any more news tips on the mad monkey/rat? i wold appreciate advice also cheers
Tylor

[bazdonsop]

ceramic diff balls and kevlar diff is a good idea, kevlar spurs are good but be careful not to land it to hard as motors shift in the monkey.
Weak points
1 front castle mounts
2 front plastic shocks (pain in bum) i use kyosho velvet
3 front arms but cheap enough
4 rear drive shaft outer pins escaped when clip moves ( a dab of glue required there)
5 try not to land on roof cos the shock towers break, however if you go carbon, it will only transfer the shock to somewhere else

hope this helps