n00b problem with MadRat slipper clutch

[Spiff500]

Hi All,

I've just built up a MadRat kit after *years* of being away from RC.

Overall, it's a great kit, with some really nice touches . . .

Anyway, the build went well, no problems. Took it out for a test drive; the only thing that seems wrong is that the slipper clutch is way too loose - or slipping quite dramatically.

I've read somewhere that the car should wheelie just a little, then back off the clutch a tiny bit.

Ok - my problem (and apologies if this seems really dumb!) - how do I tighten the clutch?

Everytime I try and tighten it - either the wheels turn, or the pinion or the motor. At no point do I seem able to tighten the nut on the spindle behind the spring!

So, I took the motor out, released the motor cover and using various braces (screwdrivers, metal rulers etc.) braced everything related to the gearbox and diff. Even so, now the grey round metal plate just behind the spring on the shaft rotates!!!!!

So, how the hell do I manage to tighten the nut and by association tighten the clutch!

I apologise if this is a bit of a n00b question - but it's really starting to p**s me off now

[Battle_axe]

Originally Posted by Spiff500

Hi All,

I've just built up a MadRat kit after *years* of being away from RC.

Overall, it's a great kit, with some really nice touches . . .

Anyway, the build went well, no problems. Took it out for a test drive; the only thing that seems wrong is that the slipper clutch is way too loose - or slipping quite dramatically.

I've read somewhere that the car should wheelie just a little, then back off the clutch a tiny bit.

Ok - my problem (and apologies if this seems really dumb!) - how do I tighten the clutch?

Everytime I try and tighten it - either the wheels turn, or the pinion or the motor. At no point do I seem able to tighten the nut on the spindle behind the spring!

So, I took the motor out, released the motor cover and using various braces (screwdrivers, metal rulers etc.) braced everything related to the gearbox and diff. Even so, now the grey round metal plate just behind the spring on the shaft rotates!!!!!

So, how the hell do I manage to tighten the nut and by association tighten the clutch!

I apologise if this is a bit of a n00b question - but it's really starting to p**s me off now

well done for the mostly sucsefull build the slipper plates the grey ones should be located on the flats on the topshaft so they go on in this order

metal slipper plate
white slipper pad
spur gear
white slipper pad
grey slipper plate

both plates should locate on the flat spots on the topshaft so you can not turn them without turning the wheels then when you do the nut up you need to hold the wheels still as you turn the nut

a tip learnt by us factory drivers and a few others is to tighten the slipper all they way up and leave it overnight then set the slipper acordingly

to get the corect slipper setting you want the car to just pull the front wheels up on full throttle when you hold the rear wheels also you want the slipper to slip before the diff (diff makes a low barking sound) whereas the slipper makes a higher sound)

hope this helps
Carl

[sparrow.2]

The simple way to tighten the slipper nut is to put the car on the ground or a table, push down on it from above and tighten or loosen the nut while holding the car down. That way the wheels can't move and you can tighten or loosen the slipper as you like.

If your car makes a barking sound the diff is loose. If it makes a long whining noise you slipper is loose. You can also push your car onto the ground and throttle it to see when the slipper slips and how much it want to go.

[DCM]

Spiff, take the slipper nut, take the rear wheel nut off, and run it on and off the axle, making sure you thread the nyloc part of the nut, this should make the nut grip 'less' to the threads. This issue is that the nut is to big for the application.

Once done, as long as your diff is set, hold the wheels still and tighten the nut.

[Spiff500]

Originally Posted by DCM

Once done, as long as your diff is set, hold the wheels still and tighten the nut.

. . .

Without wanting to ask stupid questions - what criteria would determine if my diff is set correctly?

Once again - the instructions were a tad vague on that part?

So - the answer is grip both wheels and tighten/loosen. Cheers!

It's definitely slipping, I'm sure it's probably loosing a bit of power too - maybe always slipping to one degree or another.

I'll let you know how I get on - thanks again.

[kaylon]

You can just hold the large gear of the slipper and tighten it...

What you might find is your diff is too loose...that little tiny phillips screw in that tiny plastic 'T' shaped plastic thing..

I thought it was my slipper for so long till I heard about the diff... give that screw a few more turns

J

[sparrow.2]

To check if your diff is set properly tighten the slipper down fully, hold the right tyre and the spur gear with one hand and try and turn the left wheel with the other hand.
It should be hard to turn and feel very nasty when it does slip. If it is easy to turn the wheel you need to tighten the diff by removing the right wheel, popping off the ball cup and sticking a small phillips screwdriver into the right outdrive and tightening it.

Repeat this until it feels as it should.

Don'T forget to reset your slipper once you're done with the diff.

[DCM]

the whole problem he is having, is that the nyloc on the nut is so tight, that in trying to tighten the nut, it is turning the layshaft.

Your best bet is to use a worn wheel nut, or prematurely wearing the one on the layshaft out, by running it up and down the wheel axle.

[ConceptRacing]

Well worth upgrading to a B-Fast diff, works even better than the standard diff, for the money its good value

[nicefrog]

I'm just about to build the TC02T truck and also a madrat (that was sent in two parcels but I only have half of so far thanks to the volcano : ) ).

So this info will come in handy, I might get myself the b fast diff parts also. I've also been away from rc cars for *years* and haven't built a 10th scale buggy since the original RC10 team car in the early 90s (which I still have). After reading this forum I decided to try out the team c cars, I read a lot regarding the difference between the pro kits and the madrat and how one has carbon in the plastic and the other doesn't. Seems to be a untrue rumor as I expected. The original Team C car and the madrat are identical plastic wise. Anyway I'll post some pictures once I get them built, they do look good in the box

[DCM]

If your going to do anything to the diff, just chuck in decent diff and thrust race balls.

[nicefrog]

Might do that but since I'm in Australia it usually ends no real difference in price once you have postage to just buy everything. It's not all that important since there's no tracks around here anymore, not like there was back in the day so it's just going to be a track out in the paddock for these cars, I considered a b4 but decided since the AE cars are Chinese now anyway may as well get a proper Chinese car and fly the red flag .

I wanted to get back into the hobby now as I think 10th scale electric may boom again anytime soon on the back of lipo and brushless tech. Then once that happens I'll be able to get the vintage racers I have out of the cupboard for vintage class (all wish full thinking but you never know)

[DCM]

LiPo and Brushless has seen an upsurge in the UK of electric racing.

[nicefrog]

I built the team c truck tonight, Just need to setup the diff and slipper later once I get some tyres. With the plastics I mentioned earlier the arms on the madrat are not made from plastic with carbon powder/fibre but ever other part is (same as the pro versions). I guess that was 100% marketing and zero percent cost saving. But fair enough.

Also the bearings in the pro kit are sealed bearings and veeeery smooth compared to the bearing kit you get from ebay for the madrat (I have these for that, they are good enough but the bearings in the pro kit are just that much better)