Team Tekin Q&A

[Danny Harrison]

Originally Posted by carborush

hi guys any suggestions on this ? anyone ?

I'd hard reset it so its running factory settings. See if its OK, then go from there. I had a weird thing happen like this too. I did this and it was OK. Also, I run sensored now, feels much nicer for me.

[Randy p]

Originally Posted by pugboy

I know this is not a Hobbywing section but bear with me. The principles of the esc software seem on the face of it largely similar to the Hotwire in the sense of boost and turbo. My issue is that when I run the same settings on the Tekin in 4wd as i do on the HW in 2wd, that the same effect does not seem to happen. The motor in 4wd is Novak 6.5 and my Hotwire settings (V223) are sensored and zero boost with 20 degrees of turbo timing. Gear ratio of around 10:1 in Durango 410. Now it is quickish but seems to lack top end. It does not seem to have a 'step up' as you would expect with 20 degrees of turbo dialled in. The can timing is set to zero but i have tried it more advanced too. On the bench with no pinion I cannot detect any change in pitch at full throttle when the turbo timing should be kicking in (which you can doing the same with HW). Question is it most likely to be software, hardware or motor related? Sensor cable seems ok with the test with the 3 lights on the esc.

Any thoughts.

Cheers

We don't generally run turbo in offroad. However there are a few things to check. When at Full throttle do all the led's light up AND Flash? If not you're radio/esc calibration needs to be redone.

2nd if under heavy timing the sensors fail we won't turbo boost the motor.

Ideally you should be using low motor timing(0-10) and some esc timing boost(10-20) should be plenty fast.

Rp

[pugboy]

Originally Posted by Randy p

We don't generally run turbo in offroad. However there are a few things to check. When at Full throttle do all the led's light up AND Flash? If not you're radio/esc calibration needs to be redone.

2nd if under heavy timing the sensors fail we won't turbo boost the motor.

Ideally you should be using low motor timing(0-10) and some esc timing boost(10-20) should be plenty fast.

Rp

Thanks for that Randy

Will the motor run cooler if you run less boost and then just have the timing wound up for the straight (i.e. turbo), assuming there is enough punch elsewhere on the track? It is on astro so we have lots of grip, so the surge is not an issue.

I tried it again last night with zero can timing + ten degree boost plus a further 15 degrees of turbo. I can now hear the change in pitch at full throttle but until i get it on the track I won't know how quick it is or if it heats up excessively over the length of a heat. Would you suggest it would be better to run 25 degree boost and zero turbo to achieve the same top end but a more gradual increase in timing through the rev range?

Cheers

Chris

[Danny Harrison]

Originally Posted by pugboy

Thanks for that Randy

Will the motor run cooler if you run less boost and then just have the timing wound up for the straight (i.e. turbo), assuming there is enough punch elsewhere on the track? It is on astro so we have lots of grip, so the surge is not an issue.

I tried it again last night with zero can timing + ten degree boost plus a further 15 degrees of turbo. I can now hear the change in pitch at full throttle but until i get it on the track I won't know how quick it is or if it heats up excessively over the length of a heat. Would you suggest it would be better to run 25 degree boost and zero turbo to achieve the same top end but a more gradual increase in timing through the rev range?

Cheers

Chris

Turbo is like an extreme boost on the tekin bud, fast turn motors don't like it. I run sensored only, 12 degrees on can and between 0-30 boost. Its rapid. Just gear it for straight speed.

[Randy p]

What I personally don't like about turbo in offroad is that it's literally tied to full throttle. So any time you're giving the car full throttle turbo is on it's way to the motor. I find this for my driving style, to be not good.

Try it, but timing is timing in regard to the motor and temps.

[pugboy]

Thanks for that guys. I'll try without turbo then and see if I can find a happy medium of speed, punch and temp.

[Mr Satchell]

Hi randy. I'm new to tekin. I have a rs pro running a 6.5 gen2 motor with 5000
Thunder power battery's. just wondering if I have to set the esc up for that motor. Don't want to plug it in and it go bang. Thanks

[HarlowS]

Just read through the instructions, wire it up correctly, A-A, B-B, C-C etc., calibrate it to your radio and it will be fine, will only go bank if you reverse the battery wires

[Mr Satchell]

I bought it second hand with no instructions. How do I calibrate it to my radio. I have spektrum dx3r pro

[HarlowS]

Instructions can be found here, its pretty simple

http://www.teamtekin.com/manuals/RSManual.pdf

[Randy p]

Originally Posted by Mr Satchell

Hi randy. I'm new to tekin. I have a rs pro running a 6.5 gen2 motor with 5000
Thunder power battery's. just wondering if I have to set the esc up for that motor. Don't want to plug it in and it go bang. Thanks

Not knowing how it's setup now? Yes :

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESC...e_SRS_v223.pdf

[Lowie]

Had ESC-problems this weekend
and I don't understand yet what went wrong.

Situation: Race kampenhout (Astro, high grip, medium track), 4WD, running the 410DARC (similar to DEX410).
Standard spur (87 with pinion 24 which gave me a ratio of about 8.9).
Thunderpower 6.5 with Tekin RS Pro.

first problems:
Trying to change the setup so I hooked it to my laptop. I had downloaded the latest Hotwire-soft-version saturday on a USB-stick and re-installed it on this laptop (had an older version installed previously).
When connecting the ESC I immediatly got the message that I needed to update the ESC-software which I OK'ed.

AFter this tinkered a bit with the setup: Brushless-delayed reverse, sensored only, no turbo , bit of boost (25), narrowed the neutral zone to 12, Current limit 80, ...
Clicked on APPLY SETTINGS and waited like a good boy untill that was done.
Closed the program, disconnected the ESC and back in the receiver.

==> blinking leds, no tones, nothing???
(Later out, with the help of Kevin Lee (*!) I figured out that this LED-code meant a problem with the engine).
I tried all kinds of things and found out that the blinking LED's stopped when disconnecting the motor. I then installed another older motor which I was sure it was fine .. but again this blinking.

So I re-did the whole thing: again update the software-version on the ESC .. then changed the settings again as described higher and this time no errors so I though all was well again.

Second problem later on that weekend: I had discovered that I forgot the revers-delayed function; so to eliminate problems during racing I hooked up the ESC to the laptop again and changed the setting to BL-FR.
but when reconnecting to the receiver I got the same error blinking LED's.
... one minute before my Q3 which I missed obviously

I asked Kevin Lee for advice and he knew that these LED's showed an engine-problem. But as I was sure the engine was OK, he looked further into the matter, pushed the buttons at a speed I could not follow and he found out that the car was set as BRUSHED ?!?
This was very strange as I was 99% sure of having selected BL-FR (checked it twice while working with the Hotwaire-program before APPLYing the settings to the ESC). I write 99% as one can never be 100% sure I guess.

Anyway, Kevin got it set to Brushless with the buttons on the ESC and I didn't want to change anything anymore as I allready missed one Qualification.
From there on the motor perfomed as expected. me = happy again.

.. but as the engine got very hot avery stint I thought I should try a larger pinion. The batteries were fine, the Tekin RsPro only showed 4 led's after every run, so I thought the engine might need some heavier workload.
I switched my 24-pinion to a 25 for F2.
Everything went great .. untill the 5 minutes-sign .. suddenly the car hesitated, then thermalled out and stopped. AFter some seconds I could continue again and limped in the last round with the car hesitating a few times.
The ESC reveiled blinking LEDs: HOT! .. which decended after a while to a normal temp.

Offcourse I switched the 25-pinion to the usual 24 again. I had run all my Q's and one Final with this pinion and never had problems, the ESC showing only 4 leds for the temp-reading.
.. but in the last final, the same happened again: at the 5 minute-sign, the car thermalled out, and I had to limp in again, loosing 3 places in this final round

After the race, I switched the pinion to a 23-pinion for a test-drive, but the car clearely lacked speed and thermalled again after 5 minutes (exactly?!?)

We checked on the drivetrain of the car but that was perfectly free and smooth.

Someone told me that maybe it was the capacitator that was dead and so the ESC had to do all the work on his own and overheated. Can this be correct?

To sum it up: 1: strange things happened when trying to setup the ESC through hotwire, the software not transferring the correct settings to the ESC
2: why the sudden overheating??


(*!) a BIIIIIG thank you for Kevin Lee who was there on several occasions for me when I had problems with the ESC. Always very helpfull and friendly advice.

[Lowie]

also another quick question: how does one mount a fan onto an RsPro?
any pictures of this somehewere?

[Randy p]

@ Lowie,

How old is that motor? Where was the can timing set? How big is the track? Does your car run the same internal drive as the Dex?

[Lowie]

Motor: it's first race- day, so brand new.
Timing on motor lowered from 20 to 10°
The track was astro, very grippy"
Medium track length.

Now I don't think that this had anything to do with the track. The track did not change. I never had overheating-problems, the ESC staying relativly cool the previous training days, or while qualifying ... and then suddenly the thermaling out.

[carborush]

I asked Kevin Lee for advice and he knew that these LED's showed an engine-problem. But as I was sure the engine was OK, he looked further into the matter, pushed the buttons at a speed I could not follow and he found out that the car was set as BRUSHED ?!?
This was very strange as I was 99% sure of having selected BL-FR

My rs esc did exactly the same after updating (see my posts a bit above in this thread)
it was "locked" in brushed mode. did not want to connect to the hotwire again
Only thing left to do was pushing the onboard buttons and set the engine to brushless again.
after that the hotwire connection worked again, but car ran at 50% of normal speed. regardless of the settings in the hotwire

[Randy p]

Originally Posted by Lowie

Motor: it's first race- day, so brand new.
Timing on motor lowered from 20 to 10°
The track was astro, very grippy"
Medium track length.

Now I don't think that this had anything to do with the track. The track did not change. I never had overheating-problems, the ESC staying relativly cool the previous training days, or while qualifying ... and then suddenly the thermaling out.

If you did a software update it's always a good idea to perform a factory reset right afterwards. This blows out any bad data in the memory locations so when you install your setup, there is no chance of an issue.

Give that a shot, re test. Let me know.

[smokes]

Ran my rs pro with a broken capacitior have killed it as the brakes don't work.

[Randy p]

The RS/RS Pro shouldn't be ran without a cap.

[Lee24h]

Im after a good smooth boost profile for a touring car with a lrp x20 13.5t motor
Indoors on carpet using rubber tyres
Im try to make a all rounder profile however i find the bottom end is quite aggresive
Any help
Cheers
Lee