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#61
11-04-2008
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Coming out of corners oversteer can be easily cured by either less anti-squat, softer rear springs or lowering the inside ballstud @ the rear. I would try the springs first
__________________
MOST important don't crash. Kyosho DB1 Kyosho Vega RB5 GenII Kyosho RB 6.7 MB MODELS www.rccarshop.co.uk www.ghostrc.co.uk 
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#62
12-04-2008
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Go back to the original chassis ............ get an SP suspension upgrade pack (LAW35) and it will all be sorted.
I've tried a KMC converted car (bought off ebay, sold 2 weeks later) just out of interest and it was very, very poor compared to the standard chassis arrangement!! It was the rear end that was the problem there too.
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#63
12-04-2008
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Quote:
It's either something to do with going brushless and the way the power is delivered is causing the problem, or it could be something as simple as the last set of tyres I put on (we all run yellow full spikes) are duff. Something has to be causing it!!
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#64
23-04-2008
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I'm quite sure this have been posted here some place... But does anyone have an chart for the Kyosho shock pistons versus the Associated pistons?
Are they quite similar, or are they way different? Thanks for answers! 
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#70
21-05-2008
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A one way will remove lots of power on understeer.... but can make the car twitchy on very bumpy high traction tracks, should be okay on clay though I would think.
Give it a try!
__________________
:: AE B5MCE - SP 7.5 v3.0 Brushless Motor - Reedy Shorty Lipo - Savox Servo - Spektrum Rx :: :: Paint By Turnip Paint ::
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#71
21-05-2008
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either add the oneway as that will aid on power steering, try 10 degree blocks as on the standard zx5 they gave you less going in but more coming out or posibly try adding a degree or 2 of rear antisquat as this will make the car try and climb up itself under power so will give you more onpower steering. hth
nathan
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Nathan Ralls HPI, Custom Blitz, www.piraterc.com mr-o foams woop woop racing officialy keeping team toe out inline 
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#72
18-06-2008
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Right then
 - built and now fine tuning a few bits to RogerM's set up as a good starter for the weekend coming. (Our track - outdoor, grass, bumpy to very bumpy, jumps and high grip.)Front Q1 - I can't quite read location of ball stud on front Hub on the set up sheet posted. Is it toward the front or back? Q2 - Axle height spacer - is this the location of the spacer itself, or the result of the location of the spacer (I hope that makes sense) Rear Q3 - Hub spacing. It states back. Do you put the spacers at the back - therefore Short wheel base, or is it the Hub at the back therefore Long Wheel base? General Q4 - I have followed everything, but the ride height is pretty high - i.e I have unwound the rear shock adjusters all the way and only now are the wishbones just showing level. On the Front the same and have the drives showing level (slightly smiley wishbones) I notice 3.75mm on the ride height for the front? Where's that measurment from and too? Phew - that's it! 
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#73
30-06-2008
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I took the recently upgraded ZX5SP for a spin yesterday.
Turning not as tight as I would like, but I think I have a solution for that. Real problem was the corning stability. Taking it fairly easy, plenty of grip, but it kept going up onto 2 wheels. Push any harder, it was going to roll it's way back to the eighteenth century. The camber link is raised as high as it can go on the rear hubs, but anymore and it will rub on the inside of the wheel when drooping. Could put spacers in the rear shocks to limit the droop and then put more spacers than the existing 3mm on the rear hub, but don't really want to, as I hear that's not such a good thing. Anyones thoughts on this would be great.
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#74
30-06-2008
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have you tried cutting spikes off the outside of the front tyres, 1 row at a time, 2 rows max. You could try and get the car to roll more (raise inner ball stud or lower outer) so that you can see it going and have a chance to steer out of it, instead of it just leaping off the track with no warning. My final suggestion maybe to stiffen the rear springs so that the car doesn't just dump and roll. Post a set-up and myself or Roger can help (we need to know where you are to see where you could go)
__________________
MOST important don't crash. Kyosho DB1 Kyosho Vega RB5 GenII Kyosho RB 6.7 MB MODELS www.rccarshop.co.uk www.ghostrc.co.uk
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#75
30-06-2008
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Quote:
Quote:
 ) to RojerM's posted one. Oil, springs, shock type etc. Shock mounted positions are all the same. I did have a couple of queries, but your reply has just highlighted an obvious error on my part. I was raising the rear hub spacer - I need to lower it there and raise it the inside to let the car roll.I'll make the changes, take another row off the front tyres, give it another spin and I see what happens. On some areas of the track it was a totally different car - much improved and am looking forward to getting it tweaked. Once that's done I'll post up a set up sheet and results. Thank you
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#76
01-07-2008
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Ok ......
firstly the set up has moved on a little since then ..... still need to get it hosted but my PC at home, with the set-ups on, has had an OS failure and I need the time to get the data off the HDD before I re-instal .... will be weeks before I have the time! I will try to write it in words later when I have a moment.... You need to take a fair amount of the material off the ball cups for the inner end of the track rods .... some people I know have gone to the Yokomo rose-joints as a solution but you don't need to ... just trim generously!!! Once you have free movement of the rack trim the parts off the chassis the bell cranks touch right back to the thicker section. Now you'll turn inside anything!!! As Simon said, post up a set-up exactly (inc tires and track surface) and we'll try to help ..... can't say I'm short of steering!!!
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#77
20-07-2008
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lazer zx-5 sp setup help.
hello, i have just assembled my lazer zx-5 sp and i was wondering if there was any need to know information regarding the setup on this car. i was especially wondering about the front and rear toe in or out and what degrees either way would be the best for an all around race setup. also anything else would be much appreciated. also what would be a setup change that would help keep the back end of the car from sliding around. thank you very much.
boots.
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#78
30-08-2008
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Maybe one of the most drawn out sagas but.....
I am trying to eliminate the bump steer on the ZX5 SP - It's aweful. Steering knuckle as standard (thought about switching them but looks like they'll knock into the wishbone?) Spacer under the Hub Carrier. (Attempting to lower steering knuckle), slight change but not enough to write home about. Really need to raise link on the steering rack - but obviously doesn't go any higher than it's higher of 2 settings. Do you run your car with bump steer and live with it or am I missing something?
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#79
19-09-2008
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For the original ZX-5...are there specific part breakages that I should be concerned about ie) upgrade.
I just bought the 3Racing chassis and I was wondering if it would be worth while to upgrade to the carbon shock towers and center piece. Are there any aluminum upgrades that I should consider for added durability.
__________________
Team Losi LST2 Team Losi XXX-CR Kyosho Lazer ZX-5 4PK Futaba FASST
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#80
19-09-2008
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I run alu tower mounts on mine, both as an original and an SP. Mine is quite an old car and the material is supposed to be much stronger now, so may not need doing. Other than that I've never broke anything that I've not broken on any other car. Seems to be as strong as most others
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KYOSHO
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