coming to a bury meeting near you........
 

cannot wait to race this bad boy!!!
what you think lads?

looks the mutts nutts pal, all u need now is are aircraft alloy front brace

Which brace is that Carl?

the front hinge pin brace it bends if you hit something ares doesnt

hmm im sure a few weeks ago you were telling me what a fool i was for not buying a 22 :eh?:

And what make is that then?

Yeah was completely wrong. Pile of Shite car.

and im sure most will not say the same theres no comparison between 22 and the rb6

indeed, and they look very tidy!

I Was basically handicapped with the losi. Only realised after driving matt's car how much better other cars were than the 22, and after driving at goshen the other day in the wet, WOW. It's like cheating!

Then again it better bloody had do at the price I had to pay!

Was that you at goshen a few Sundays ago? When I was bugging you asking question lol

Yeah pal, that was me prating about with my old xxcr kinwald while I was in between cars. Don't mind at all pal we all started somewhere and if you don't ask you don't learn

haha true. Like the RB6, very nice indeed :)

Ive upgraded to brushless now and goes a little bit quicker

where abouts did you get the front wheels from, do the cut starggers fit on any front wheels or do you have to get narrower wheels? and are they 12mm hex?

Cheers

Chris

They're kyosho wheels, as far as I know they only fit the rb5/6 possibly tamiya aswell. They are 12mm hex but have a different sized hole and offset to the 22 wheels which are also 12 mm Hex so be careful just coz it's 12 mm hex doesn't necessarily mean they'll fit.

There are two types of cut stagger, the low profile ones like in the pic (which are most common and you have to cut off the excess wheel from the inside to make the wheels narrower. And there's a higher profile cut stagger (less common in yellow compound more common in green compound for wet) which stretches over the full width of the 2.2 front wheel so there's no need to make them narrower.

Ah ok cheers for that. Ive sorted the wheels and tires for the rear, its just the front ones im struggling on now, ill have a look into that :) do you have a guid to trim the wheel?

Can i ask about you about lipo, esc and motor?

Sorry i am on a massive learning curve with all this at the moment haha

Ive just installed ETRONIX BRUSHLESS MOTOR/ESC COMBO 13T (to start with)

ESC Features;

• Input: NiMH 4-8 cells & LiPO 2-3 cells & LiFe 2-3 cells
• Output: Max 360 Watt, 54A at 54°C, 45A at 75°C, Peak 240A
• Motor support: KV < 4500KV, 1:10 scale car
• BEC: 5V / 2A
• Net weight: 72g
• Dimension: 48x33x29mm

Motor Features;

• 13.0R 3000KV
• Max Amps: 33
• Resistance: 0.0255
• I0(A): 1.2
• Shaft: 3.17mm
• Weight: 172g

and ive got a 4000mah 2S 25c (50c burst) lipo

which give 100amps (i think)

would these be sufficient for the above setup?

many thanks again

chris

chris

ansman wheels fit as well gav

Do they?.. Good to know, prob cheaper too I bet Carl?

I run NVision 5500 90C lipos, orion R10 speedo and hpi flux 7.5R motor
Yeah that set up would be fine starting out you don't want to run a car that's too quick for you like so many people do, all you end up doing is crashing more often and usually harder. So you break it more and in the end you just end up with less track time and less practice so you don't improve your driving skills. You're doing the right thing pal, go with that set up until you feel going around the track consistently without making mistakes as fast as you can and only when you feel it's holding you back, get a quicker set up.
End of the day consistency is faster when you're learning, as supposed to a car that's too fast for you and losing 5-10 seconds everytime you crash and need a marshal to turn your car over.

Exactly, plus when you first go and race dont be fooled by all the drivers having mega fast cars. If your in a lower heat and everyone is panning you down the straight, there more than likely going to crash alot at the end of it,and on other parts of the track cause the cars to quick to slow down.
Most of the top lads have been racing 10-20 years and have got their stuff dialled and their thumbs are very responsive. Best advice you will ever get is, slow the car right down until your getting round each lap without a mistake. Then talk to the fast guys and ask them for advice, you'll find they are a very nice bunch!

I am very nice thanks Chris haha

Gavin,
I thought the cut staggers were only available in the higher profile and as far as I'm aware you can still get the higher profile in yellow compound unless Schumacher have stopped supplying them?
Lee

I've got cuts in low and normal profile - both in yellow. However, as Gav says for all the jobs you want cut's for in yellow the lows work better than the normals. I've not tried green cuts in the wet, but I guess the idea is that in those circumstances normals work better than lows.

I may have been Misinformed but as far a I know they're harder to get hold of as they stopped making them? I could be wrong though

all still available
clicky

Here is mine coming toooooo

Nice, mine's debut meeting is at southport mince pie meeting on Sunday and then next week at bury (Oldham). Bad a couple of wet runs at goshen and it's unbelievably good already light years better than the 22

I'll see you there me and my lad are going as he's trying out his B4 Vega :thumbsup:

I will be at Southport to claim my free mince pie and give my 22 it's final run. I've ordered myself a new Sv2 but was so impressed with Gav's RB6 in the wet yesterday I'm considering sending the sv2 back and buying the Kyosho!! I just cannot decide!!

Chris

It was frighteningly good in such wet conditions, I've never driven a car in such wet conditions never mind it have so much grip! Cannot wait to try it in the dry

I do hope Eric's got a large stock of mince pies because tomorrow is going to be busy.....

I love the Kyosho gear! The quality of the parts is fantastic.

I have 4 Kyosho's now, Just need an RB6 to finish the collection!

Get one Matt, unbelievable. I've basically been driving handicapped with the 22.

Nice looking buggy.

Gav's RB6 does look awesome on his pit table but so far thats all I've seen it do as he's
bust it!

Car was flying in practice! Stupid thing is si, the car comes with a spare block that I broke but I left it in the box at home thinking it was part of the rear motor build.... Idiot. Watch out next week in Oldham though the car is class!

I'm definitely gonna take it slow to start with, just waiting for some hop up parts and wheels and tyres and then I should be coming to a meet. Which inserts are best too? And can you use minipins for the front indooors?

Also, I have looked high and low on how to install cvds but can find anything? How do you take them out of the transmission? (The ones I have now are plastic telos coping but I've ordered some metal cvds)

Thanks again and I'm not trying to take over your thread haha

Most people run cut staggers up front instead of front minipins but you can get them and they do work.
As for the CVD's - I've have to look at the car. Bring it to a meeting and we'll work it out. Plenty of time between races.

Gav - You should know its never good when there are spares in the box. The only reason to do that is if someone knows you are going to need it!

Hi Si

Thank you very much for that, the parts should be with me some time in January. Hopefully before Sunday :) if not then it will be the next meet in February. If you show me then I 'll be able to do it myself in future, there's alot to take in but I'm getting there slowly bit surely with the basics haha

I've installed the brushless system with lipos, and it makes a massive difference from NIMH

As it turns out si, id put the wrong rear block on the car that fit but was really flimsy looking. The correct one (which is really thick and chunky is now installed and should be fine. I blame the japs! Why give me a part that fits but doesn't belong to the car? Haha

Just read the instructions properly?