Jörn MM and shocks rear
 

Anyone tried it?
Is it just a remove hubs ( for toe etc), arm flip, shock move?

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3.../Capture-2.png

very interesting what advantage will it give and presuming for high grip tracks.

I have been running our 410 bad 210 like that for sometime now. It would appear to calme the rear end down a lot on bumpy sections, and generally help with rear grip.

The big downside is that the shock bodies become your rear bumper...

Its a slightly longer wheelbase, and the weight is further back. Whilst the shocks are more vulnerable at the rear, the shock tower digs in less on rolling so its less likely to break.
Biggest downside is you have to trim the wing to go around the shocks.

It should give more rear traction, should be pretty good on the RM car as they will be a bit more protected.

Burgie do you have a pic of the 410 like that?

:thumbsup: Yeah, that's what I found - also gives more rotation in tight corners

I am running mine like this again tonight as it goes. all i did was redrill holes in the rear of the wishbone.

So you didn't flip your arms??

Are you using the dimec as well or stock chassis

No, i was going to, but i like the idea of leaving the arms as they are so i can switch the shocks back and forth to test them back to back. i just measured the hole spacing from the front of the arm with vernier calipers and drilled new holes.

I am running the dimec20 chassis on mine :)

Not a bad idea.. Ill have to see how steady my hands are :woot:

Heres the RM pic from RCTech

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...d-img_1052.jpg

Hi Guys

This subject has me a bit puzzled, I am thinking a bit about what does what.

If you flip the arms over and stay shimmed the same way you were you will actually lengthen the wheelbase some, this will take away rear traction, but it will make it rotate a bit easier if the back end is sliding a bit, and it will calm it down over bumpy sections and probably make it a bit more directionally stable. When you move the dampers rearwards you are moving some weight, so it will give some more rear traction, but I believe not influencing as much as the effect of flipping the arms and thus lengthening the wheel base.

in addition I bet that the rear arms are twisting under acceleration, and the side that will be moving the most is the one where the damper isn't attached, so that will also account for some effect.

All of this will have different impact based on if you flip the arms or re-drill them since it will give different wheelbase and leverage on the arm.

Things to think about when you choose between re-drilling or flipping arms :-)

/Greger

Another angle.

http://eos.redrc.net/wp-content/gall...-durango-1.jpg

I now have the same chassis and the rear mount shock set up, anyone have under body pics of the 210 and set up?

I have tried re-drilling the wishbones and mounting the shocks on the rear, it does give more traction on slipper surfaces. I did try flipping the wishbones but the wishbones have some toe-in built in. Hence flipping the wishbones is not an option!!!!!

As for steady hands, its no prblem if you measure the hole centers and center punch:)

Durango needs to update the arms so there is another hole for the droop screw when you run the arms backwards:eh?:

You're mistaken, they don't have any built-in toe in.

There is a 2mm wheelbase difference when you flip the wishbones however, so to get the same wheelbase with the wishbones flipped as middle with the wishbones in the normal position, you need to run all the spacers at the back.

Very wrong indeed.

Toe in is determined by the pivot blocks and the hub inserts only not the wishbones.

Well I tried it last night on carpet and wooden floor it was really good. I don't think I'll be putting it back to standard I was well impressed. :thumbsup:

Any pics with the wheels off from the back?. Just want to know exactly where the holes are on the arms.

Phill

i just used my vernier to measure the front ones from the outer hinge pin and replicated on the rear.

Cheers Richy,ill have a look at mine later. Have you run yours yet and if so what surface was it on and how did it go?. I'm running the Dimec20 chassis aswell. It will be the first time out on astro for it Saturday.

Phill

Yes Phill, i've run it a couple of times at my local track Maritime which is a mix of carpet, a little astro and slippery wood. The car certainly feels more planted IMO with the shocks at the rear, less like it wants to break traction whilst cornering :)

Ill do mine the same as yours I think,drill holes at the back rather than flip the arms then I can test them against the normal position.:thumbsup:

Any tips for if damage prevention that could be added when runningnthe configuration as 10 car finals make your cars rear end quite acident prone

Be faster than the the car in front :D

I know what you mean, it is a worry having them on the rear, much safer on the front, but its a risk you take. the bottoms are mounted pretty close to the wheels so theres a bit of protection there.

Dont no y u guys worry about the shocks getting damaged, other manufacturers hav the shocks at the back with no problems, somebody would have to hit you pretty hard to damage them!

That's what I was thinking, the Losi can only be run this way. Just wish we could use the droop screw still.

Drilling the holes on the back of the original arms will still allow the droop to be used.
Its an option

Ran mine with the shocks at the rear of the arms and the Dimec20 chassis yesterday at Broxtowe. Car was excellent even in the wet. Started to snow before my first race so I put BB greens on all round and I could go at speed into corners and the rear just held. I've got my first 2wd regional there next weekend and I'm going to leave it as is.
Only down side was my crap driving and i ended up breaking my gearbox casing believe it or not:woot:

ran mine with rear shocks and arms flipped on Sunday night on a slippy/carpeted youth center hall and it was aces.
back end felt far more planted than it usually does and I was able to give full acceleration on the slippy stuff without having to correct for loss of rear traction.

I'd highly recomend the switch

What setup were you running Brooksy, ditto AfroP

Front
Springs - dark red
Pistons - Kit
Oil - 30wt losi
Schuey yellow min spikes with medium foams
shocks mounted on outer hole on arms and mid hole on tower

Rear
Spring - Light green
Pistons - kit
Oil - 27.5wt losi
Schuey yellow mini spikes with medium foams
Shocks mounted on mid hole top and bottom
rear camber link has both spacers and mounted on 2nd hole from the outside on the hubs

No extra weight in the car at all, Dimec chassis and running ball diff

Ill post mine up later if I get chance. Ran it again at Broxtowe regional this weekend gone with same setup. First couple of races I had trouble with front end digging in too much,new old style staggers on front and part worn mini spikes on rear,but even so the back end didn't swing out. For the third race I put new mini spikes on the back and the car was mint. Put my best time in.

Thanks AfroP

Stock pistons? 6x 1.2 Front and 6x 1.3 rear ?? or have you plugged or drilled something.

Thats pretty similar to the setup I have but had trouble with the back end wanting to rotate..
But I had well worn spikes, so I have mounted up a new pair and will test again tomorrow

I had 4x1.3 and those oils

Setup for mine at a dry Broxtowe this weekend gone:-

Front
Kit Springs
Pistons - 4x1.2mm
Oil - Losi 35wt
Tyres - Shuey yellow staggers
Shocks - Outer hole on top and outer hole on bottom

Rear
Kit springs
Pistons - 6x1.2mm
Oil - Losi 30wt
Tyres - Shuey yellow mini spikes
Shocks - Center top and center bottom

Phill

Hey guys. There seems to be a lot of information in this thread and some of it contradicting to others. Could someone just answer these questions for me?
1) Where do I need to drill holes, is it better with the arms flipped or drilled?
2) Does this work for both DIMEC and standard chassis', and does it work best on a grippy or low traction surface?
3) What are the exact steps In need to follow to do this?

Thanks
Dan

I've drilled the holes rather than flip the arms. All I did was measure from center of hinge pin hole to center of middle hole and drill where appropriate on the back.

I would think it would have the same effect on both chassis'.(not 100% certain though)

Not tried it on low grip yet,just high grip astro.

Phill.

I tried it on the +8 chassis, I flipped the arms at first then thought that I might want to try it back to back with the normal postítion, which flipping the arms with the shims and piviot balls out at the track isn't as easy as just drilling and then just swapping the shocks over.

I had troubles with the buggy wanting to swap ends all the time, but discovered that my rear shocks where way off and I put on some new rear tires.

That helped a lot and like a previous poster said I can get on power earlier out of corners.

If the weather holds up for sunday Ill give the stock chassis with rear shocks a go

And the results were?

Works well but I find the weight of the stock chassis makes it feel a bit lazy as I have to have heavier shocks

I like the plastic +8 for weight then I can go lighter shocks. It feels a little more nimble.