Shark Set Up
 

Hi,

Can anyone give me a good sarting point for set up on carpet with my LRP Shark running 10.5 brushless, ie springs, roll bars, what shore foams etc

Thanks

I'll try give you a hand with my setup. I ran this at Caldicot on Friday

Front:
Frogger Shock Tower
Most outward shock mount on tower
Outside mount on wishbone
(http://files.droplr.com/files/1368701/ImwQ.DSC_6789.jpg)
LRP Black springs (same as FTX Yellow)
1 shock spacer
Unknown oil
2º toe in
2º camber
Wishbones level
No ARB
20mm Schumacher Mini Pin w/ blue (hard) inserts

Rear:
Frogger Shock Tower
top middle shock mount on tower
Outside mount on wishbone
LRP Black springs (same as FTX Yellow)
3 shock spacers
Unknown oil
Standard toe
Inside camber mount on hub
Unknown camber º
Wishbones level
No ARB
25mm Schumacher Mini Pin w/ blue (hard) inserts.

This is with an SC (long) chassis, rather than the standard.

If you want more details I can get better measurements in the morning, drop me a PM.

If you're using the ST Chassis or even the original really short chasis then start with 80 weight oil all round, Medium roll bar on rear, Stiff on front, Green Springs on front, Black on rear and standard everything else. The reason for setting the car up so stiff was to keep it on the ground!!

Gearing use 10/49 with a 10.5 Novak. The Foams are all dependant on the type of carpet surface, I've never really liked them so would suggest starting with Schumacher Yellow Rally Blocks all round and seeing how you get on, Schumacher Mini-Pins could be an option although alot of Micro Drivers do not like them, coing from 1/10th I find them great :thumbsup:

These were the settings I used at the last couple of Nationals and both were Top 10 overall, let me know if you need anythig else

This gets asked a lot on a lot of different forums......most often by guys that haven't taken the time to look through the threads to see what might already have been discussed previously.....


Not to blow you off, but realistically (as you can see from your lack of response) most racers don't tend to give out "their set-ups" too readily - but honestly, especially since you're (apparently) new to mini's and/or your ST, if you're plans include racing at a track is to attend a meet and walk around the pits and make friends with the more experienced racers and just take a look yourself to see what everyone's running. Maybe even ask them, if you have a specific question.

Honestly, nothing works everywhere all the time - as all tracks and track surfaces seem to be a bit different, and every driver has a bit a different driving style and personal preference.

In all honesty Rob the micro racers tend to stick to the uk micro rc forum, which is huge, and has all sorts of setups available on there. Being a dedicated micro forum it makes it a lot easier to get help.

I guess you could have said that the first time.:D

Interesting comments rocketrob :eh?:, Yes i am new to 1/18th racing but have had a go at every other scale from 1/10th to 1/5th over the last 15 years (and still race 1/10 touring, 1/12th, mardave and tamiya Mini's), I was only after a starting point set up which although not many have posted i have had many PM's and emails with set ups from Oople members for which i extend my thanks :thumbsup: I now have my shark working as well as i could hope for, Unfortunatly for me i can only race it at local club level at the moment due to commitments (kids,missus,finances and work etc) but if things go well this year i will definitly be looking at a few nationals next year. :woot:

Nick,

Contrary to Rob's post you'll find that 99% of the A-finalists at the Micro Nationals will be more than happy to detail their setup with you and will be more than happy for you to have a look over their cars for any hints and tips.

The reason that not all of them post here or on the UK-MicroRC forum is that not all of them are internet/online forum savvy ;)

If you need any help please just drop me a PM or an email, and if you need any info relating to the Micro Nationals let me know.

We are all a really freindly bunch :)

Cris

Totally agree Cris, everyone is willing to help and assist newbies.

Stuart

Hi Nick, yes in the UK we are not fussy about giving out setups.

Mark Stiles took the championship with a Shark setup stock standard (Black springs all round, 80w oil, front roll bar, drive shafts level).

Not sure why JonMack runs so much camber and toe in, I find the car much easier to drive with +1 degree toe out and -1 degree camber all round.

Gecko 35 compound foam works most places but Schumacher Rally blocks in white or yellow compound will be the tyre of choice at the next national series. Mini Pins also work but can be too aggressive in some circumstances.

Yes it would (in most cases) seem that US racers are less inclined to share their set ups. To be honest if it weren't for other racers helping me I'm sure I'd still be stuck with an always broken truck in the D Final :thumbsup:

Nick:
Glad you got the info you were looking for and getting along well.
But beware of c0sie, as he'll attempt to come off sound like a nice guy (I am sure he'll follow up with a reply, as he's our "resident troll," once you see him/his appearance and read more of him on the 'Net you'll understand what I mean) but you'll find out soon enough that he'll come off as your best friend if he wants something of you and chew you up and spit you out when he decides he doesn't.
Otherwise, good racing to you, mate.





Crissy:
Instead of making a million and one excuses for why this thread sat here basically unanswered for 2 weeks solid, post up some set-ups or just STFU. And instead of posting just so as to call me out (again), like I did something wrong (which I didn't), don't then echo my advice about getting advice at the track. Otherwise, Grow Up for cripes sake!

Nick, ignore Rob. He is our "resident pissed off American".

As for setup, I run the following:

Front
Tower: Frogger tower, middle hole
Oil: 40wt
Pistons: Stock
Springs: Black
Outer hole on arms
Camber: 1deg
Caster: Arms back
Toe: 0deg (never toe-in)
Ball diff tight
Wishbones level

Rear
Tower: Frogger tower, middle hole
Wing mount: Frogger mount
Camber: 1deg
Toe: standard
Wheelbase: short
Outer hole on hub
Phat bodies wing and shell

Cant think of much else sorry fella.

PS: What club are you racing micros at? Is there a reasonable amount of micros at your club?

Cris

He's also the chairman of the BRCA Micro section, so it's quite nice being on good terms with him :P

Anyways......

Yeah Nick, let me know if your club races alot of micros regularly. Always looking to help promote the micros as and where I can :)

Hi c0sie,

Unfortunatly at my local club there is only a couple 1/18ths, the main reason for getting my shark was for a bit of fun in the summer and maybe some outdoor racing and to working out set ups, and then in october Torbay - rac run an indoor winter series with if i remember right 12 rounds running 1/18th's, 1/12th and touring, I raced 1/12th there last series and they have a great venue, Great people and great racing which in my opinion is what its all about,
I have spoken to the club organisers and even though they are a 1/8th nitro buggy club in the summer months they are playing with a shortened track and running the 1/18th's on astroturf.

Is there an 'ignore user' button? I might have to look and see if I can add one.

Goto User CP, then Edit Ignore List...then add to your hearts content boss :)

Hi Guys, Sorry to keep bugging you for set up advice, Just a quickie i tried Schumacher rally blocks on my shark last night, Yellow front, White rear but all i got was massive understeer even with no roll bar and if i punched it out the corner it just wheelied?????

Never run different compound tyres.

Whites are massively grippier than yellows hence the understeer :)

Try yellows all round :)

yep makes sense, My bad :drool:

I run different compounds all the time, plenty of folks do.
Whether it be matched, or mixed, choosing compounds is a "tuning aid."

You had stickier tires in the rear than the front, so thus your problem. You might could have cured it by switching the tires front to rear.

Which sway bar did you remove?

It is sound advice (in this country anyway) to start with same compunds front and rear to start with. Of course, there is no reason saying you can't switch to different compounds, say if you were getting grip roll/over or understeer.

I run yellow mini pins f/r, 20mm on the front. I've recently put a white arb on the back and I've found it's increased the steering a lot, also moved the caster clip from front to back on the front end to give a bit more steering, have found myself going faster with it setup like this so I'm happy to leave it as it is!

At the end of the day, what works for one person might not work for another, Si (mrspeedy) was saying he couldn't get on with an ARB, yet I was loving it last week.

Cant thank everyone enough for all the help :thumbsup:

My current set up is:

Front
green springs on 3 racing mini-t shocks
middle hole shock tower, inner hole arm
-1 deg camber, 0 deg toe
60wt oil
yellow rally blocks
yellow roll bar

Rear
yellow springs on standard shocks
middle hole shock tower, outer hole arm
-1 deg camber, standard toe??
60wt oil
white rally blocks
no roll bar

arms level front no droop and rear level with 2mm droop

This set up with 40sh foams front and 37sh foams rear was absolutely nailed to the track with oodles of steering but with the rally blocks just had massive understeer even running no roll bars at all.

Try running WHITE rally blocks on the front. Yellow's will push at most places and they sure don't work at our club (Wycombe). There has only ever been 1 club where I found yellow rally blocks to be on par with whites and that's South Ockendon, something to do with their specific carpet. You could also run yellow mini pins which work well in a lot of places.

Just so you know, contrary to what some may misunderstand and/or misinterpret, but basically - front sway bars effect rear traction, rear sway bars effect (front) steering.....So by only running a front bar you added traction, while not running the rear bar took away your steering.


IMHO - Your problem might be fixed simply via removing the front bar and putting the rear one back on. :)
I would also consider adding some front camber, like maybe -3 or -4 degrees, so as to get some more on-power steering.

That's why I'm running a rear ARB, to add steering!

;):thumbsup:

Diffs need to be set 1/8 turn from tight on front and 1/4 turn from tight on back this will cause the rear diff slip slightly as there is no slipper on the shark preventing wheeling. :-)

Also what percent on transmitter r u running your throttle as 10.5 motor in shark needs run at well less than 100%. I am running mine at 90 out 150 on my ko.

All the top boys in 1/18th never run at 100% throttle epa.

:-)

what is ARB ?

ARB = Anti Roll Bar also known as a sway bar in some countries.

Ahh
didn't know there was a short for it

Sam

just because guys make up acronyms, doesn't mean the exist out side their own world ;) :thumbsup: