tame down db01 steering ??
 

so I have a db01r, built to kit settings and the steering is just too much off power, and the back end rotates around too much so that its hard to go around corners unless I use very little steering input.

So far, I have used the smallest pistons & AE blue front springs to stiffen up the front end. Also moved one hole out on the front shock tower. 35wt oil.

On the rear, I have used 30wt oil, standard spring, moved one hole in on rear tower.

ride height 1mm higher at front at 23mm and 22mm rear.

front diff is tighter than rear, no slippage.

I will use a heavier oil in the front next time.

Is there anything else I can do to tame down the steering? Maybe front stabilizer?

yeah I had the same when I built mine
Mine is now sweet
1st, shocks in the stock positions
2nd asscociated blue front, 42.5 losi oil
3rd stock rear springs, 37.5 losi oil
by the looks of it you know what you need to do, heavier front shock oil

On my 01-R ive used 80 weight oil and hard springs, ive also used front and rear anti roll bars. You might want to try cutting the edges down on the tyre treads, or using 2wd front tyres.

Jk

What surface are we talking?

Your ride height is off - the front should be lower than the rear by 1-2mm.

Stabilizer would help. What auto brake setting do you have on your speedo?

Could you not just turn down the steering rate on you radio:confused:

Dont mean to sound funny but depending on the track i turn it up or down....for more or less steering.

I use a front stabilizer on 40wt oil,no rear on 30wt oil and set the front a little lower than the rear (ride height).

Andy

Do you mean there is too much bite / grip on the front and you want less.

Carl

put the optional chassis on, the DB01R chassis is super stiff, which will lose you rear traction mid corner. There should be no need to go up silly high on the oil, on my DB01, using the optional softer chassis, I am on 35wt front, 30wt rear, and no issue.

You could also look at your tyres and think about trimming off some tread.

I thought the chassis that comes with the DB01R was the hi traction one, do u have the part number of the softer chassis?

I run losi shocks on the car, in the front i have red pistons and run 40 wt oil, with losi blue spring which are a similar stiffness to the associated ones. ive found the rear of the car holds on really well, it was one of the things that really gave me confidence in it was the ability to have a pointy front end whilst not to the point where it wants to swap ends on you everywhere, it'll only be a few little changes and you'll have it dialled

First off, thanks for all the replies. I would love getting a tamiya competitive against all the other cars, including my own B44 and durango. The problem is only off power, that it rotates too much. Will try some changes next race, however due to parts supply cannot do as much as I want.

80wt oil?:o
Thats a drastic change.

I might just put a front anti roll bar only to take away some steering.

Hard pack clay, high traction when swept/clean

Wouldnt a lower front induce more steering? which is what I dont want

zero drag brake
I could turn down the steering, but then I'd feel I'm masking a problem and not solving it, and that a properly setup car shouldnt need expo adjustments on steering. Yes I do sound abit crazy :woot:

yep the 40wt is next on my to do list at the next meet. Front stabilizer will be the following meet, as I need to wait for parts to arrive. I didnt know about setting the front lower than rear, but since someone else has mentioned it also, will give that a try. I'm just use to having the front 1mm higher, as thats what we do in hard packed clay 2wd.

yes, but only too much bite off power.
whats the part number for the 'optional' chassis?
The only one I can find is
54041 Carbon reinforced chassis (with cell cutouts and heat sink hole)
and that doesnt sound like its more flexible than the original db01 chassis.

or is the option chassis the original db01 chassis?

does the optional chassis have the cut out for the heatsink like on the db01r? Not that I think it really matters, not sure if it does much anyway.

generally on the fronts the tire to use is worn blockheads on our track

yes, I use the original chassis as the High Traction one loses rear end grip mid corner.

I have a spare brand new Durga chassis if your after one? Drop me a PM if your interested?

I got a spare to, but I am most definitely holding on to it... knowing my luck, as soon as I sold it, I would need it!!

its ok thanks:)

im in australia, and I get my parts from HK. I will need to put in a order soon anyway for other stuff.

yust to confirm, you use this one
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-db0...h=595_744_1096

I think he means that one, as that is the original db01 chassis.

then there is also ,54041 Carbon reinforced chassis (with cell cutouts and heat sink hole)

and then there is the db01r chassis with heat sink hole

I nearly forgot I have a standard db01 lying around somewhere, so will use that chassis for my db01r.

The chassis on the R already has a lot more flex then the stock DB-01 chassis.
I've driven both on hard packed clay and both are fine with about the same setup as yours.

There's 3 chassis available for the DB01 now, the original (#9335492), the carbon reinforced (#54041) [DCM that's the one you tried I think] and the DB01R chassis, also called high traction (#54204).

Where bouts in Aus are you, I'm in Sydney

Which tires are you using btw?

vic:thumbsup:, I'm the sole db01 at our local tracks
at our track losi block heads, taper pins & jconcepts double dees work well at the front.

rears losi x2000

try 2wd bobcats hard (clay) compound at the front

moving the shock out on the front tower will make the car react quicker thus giving you more initial steering but less though and out the corner you havent said where the car is oversteering is it does it have to much intial steering ie the first steering input as you get to the end of the straight etc or does the car break away after you have it turned in and then breaks away or does it happen when you get back on the gas to come out the corner is the car oversteering going around the sweepers and you are having to get of the throttle. until we know this there is n ot much point of changing the car except for self experiment.

oversteering when off power entering turns.

alot of times im counter steering entering turns as the back end is trying to come around when entering the turn. Looks good and all, but not good for lap times:yawn: Mid corner and exit is good, just off power entering is where I would like it corrected.

just put some 40wt oil in the front, just need to wait for another day at the track.

501x stabilizer set on the way too. I will just use the fronts

I just thought that moving the front tower out one hole would make it stiffer

in that case putting a stiffer spring on and standing the shocks up on the tower will make the car worse you need to make the front end of the car more progressive you can achieve this in a couple of ways if you lay the front shcoks down yes it will make the car slightly softer in its damping but the shocks will not react as fast so it will be easier to turn the car into the corner with out oversteer you can also move the shocks out on the lower arm this will do a simular thing but with greater effect as you would be changing the point of leaverage by a greater amount.

stu

yes it does but it will also get to the shocks point of no more travel quicker hense make the car react faster. if you look at carpet racing where the grip is very high the shocks are layed down to stop grip roll. grip roll is produce from the edge of the tire biting into the track to much the only way to stop this is to make the car more progressive slowing the reaction of the car down and on initial steering input.

your not getting grip roll but you are getting lots of inital oversteer if the grip was higher you probably would start lifting wheels.

does this make sense

stu

How much camber are you running on the rear?

thank you, you sound like you know what your talking about:thumbsup:

I was just going on by what I have been reading on the db01 forums. Too much steering, stiffen the front end, springs, geometry etc.

I've got much to learn about car setup.

I usually run -1.5mm all around, but since have used 0 at the front lately

the thing about car setups no one thing will cure the problem a change will always effect somthing else also everybody see what the car is doing is different and discribe in a different way. the books and manual are very good but they tend to say this change will do this not taking into the account of track type and conditions and the rest of the setup.

i dont think you are running enough camber dont forget its an offroad car and you get a lot of suspention travel and camber change and roll.

stu