![]() |
TLR 22 dif probs
had a test run in the week with my 22 ... all is good apart from after running not even five mins the diff has gone from super smooth to feeling like a bag af spanners ( rough to feel but still loose and working fine ) just dont feel great anyone else found this... tried a re grease but it feels just the same (looks like ceramic balls and new plates needed) dohh
|
i stripped mine because it was the same,what i found was when you put the two diff halfs together,with the center gear and the balls in but no thrust bearing thing,it was super smooth even when you push them together as hard as you can,when you put the screw in and do it up it goes all crunchy:confused:
|
When you build the diff make sure you put shit loads of black grease on the thrust race, you dont need to put much clear grease on the diff balls you just want to fill the holes where they sit. Thats how I do it anyway and my diffs are always smooth.
|
Yep, same thing here.
Anyone know what the kit balls are made from - cheap steel ? |
Same here, first run on table nice and smooth. First run got crunchy and slip.
Rebuild and then no more smoothness. Order a rebuilt kit, will see later but opened to suggestions. |
not an owner yet, but id suggest carbide balls and new diff rings (sanded of course).
|
RCLazy.com do ceramic diff balls for these cars, myself and a couple of my mates built ours with ceramic from new.
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
In truth bud i havent even ran my 22 yet but i build all my cars with ceramic balls from new to prevent this exact issue. Saves aggro later on for the sake of 15 quid. Not had any issues with the diffs with my 511, tourers or Cougar by using the following build method....... I use Associated black grease on the thrust race and Schumacher or MuchMore difflube on the balls and plates. The Losi stuff is probably ok but i stick to what i know. On the backs of the plates i use a small amount of Tamiya hard friction damper grease to stop the plates from spinning on the outdrives. |
Mine was like this!! Steel balls I presume!!
I had a pack of ae carbide balls lying around so rebuilt with those!! However ae only supply 12. So I used 2 of the steel balls. 1 @12 o'clock the other at 6. This can clean the track and allow for a really long lasting smooth diff!! It seems to have done the trick for me as I now have a smooth diff that I can put a lot more tension on!! I noticed that with the diff set with the crunchy balls it was quite loose causing the car to diff out!! I now have the diff set much tighterto stop this. However I have not been able to get track time to confirm at present! |
it does seem odd then they would go to all that trouble of grinding the diff rings flat,then give you crap balls that will probably knacker them,or will the ball be that soft that the diff rings will be ok to use again?
|
check these out
these are by far the best ceramicdiff ball i have ever used in the 15 years of racing and ive race alot of classes (1/12, touring cars,buggies 10th and 8th Mardave) dont buy white ceramic balls.
clicky http://www.acerracing.com/ball_beari...ls-774-65.html :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: :thumbsup: Free Shipping....:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsu p::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsu p::thumbsup: |
Have people's diffs that have given up been run in first? Mine seemed tight but still slipping but then after running in now seems smooth with not too much slip...I haven't raced it yet though and it's a whole different game to the bench. Should I expect it to go 5hite after 5 mins of racing then?
The diff balls are interchangeable with old Losi tungsten carbide balls I presume, as they were 3/32 and I think the 22 ones are too...I have always found my xx4 diffs stay smooth for ages. What about the diff gear and idlers, are they different from the CR cause of the metric bearings? |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Yep, we're doing a Losi 22 ceramic ball kit, it seems very popular.
We sell 14 x 3/32" for the diff + 6 x 5/64" for the thrust for £14 free postage. http://rclazy.com/shop/lazyballs/laz...ic-diff-balls/ |
Quote:
|
Bit of a basic question this but what is the best/easiest way to run in a diff?
|
I built mine with rc ceramic balls from new, diff is still super smooth after a night of running :thumbsup:
|
Hi folks.
If u havin trouble with the diff screw/ nut the ae b4 ones fit perfectly if u use both!! Works a treat!!! |
Oh crapper, just felt my diff after running at Taplow and it not only feels but even sounds like a bag of spanners. Here we come ceramic balls! :thumbsup:
|
My diff is shot after one run :-( I spent a long time putting it together, black grease, spot on adjustment etc..........I'm going to pull it tomorrow and see what needs replacing. apart from the diff its a sweet buggy and I'm really happy with it.
cheers Ian |
It's the diff balls that go real quickly, seems like they are made out of cheese. I had some ceramic balls from RCLazy but didn't have spare diff rings just yet so I just flipped mine over, sanded them nicely and rebuilt the diff with the ceramic balls. It is now smooth as butter. Let's hope it stays that way a bit longer.
|
what grade sand paper are you using on the diff rings,
thanks |
Quote:
http://rcevilempire.com/2009/03/how-...h-jesse-stark/ |
Quote:
|
dont know if anyone else uses this on their rings, but i use fine valve seating paste and have done for years
|
Quote:
|
I have also found the plastic nut holder the main diff bolt goes through rounds out letting the nut spin. I thought I had rounded out the hex head at first ...
its only little problems and i am still realy realy happy with the 22 for the money its the best car on the market :thumbsup: |
there should be an aluminium diffnut holder hopup appearing at shops , hopefully this week :thumbsup:
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
As a fix for the dodgy nut holder u have several solutions that work
1. Put the nut in the holder then drip superglue in the nut end and let it set before rebuilding diff 2 use a tamiya nut and diff holder. (they are an exact fit!) 3. Use an associated diff screw and 1 piece nut/holder. This is also a perfect fit. The thread is not the same as losi which is why u need the screw as well. The screw is a little longer so u get a more progressive adjustment range. However it is not too long that it impinges any driveshft travel in the outdrives Number 3 IMO is the best fix. And a permanent one that is much cheaper than paying £10-15 for an alloy nut holder!! |
Quote:
Get your US friends to get the website up to date... ;) |
Quote:
|
Quote:
you cant tell us than and not tell us what they are :woot: |
Things like the brass weight kit that was not meant to come until next month which is already here. We have listed today on our website in our "Preview" section all of the new forthcoming parts from TLR for the Twenty Two, there are LOTS of new bits on the way soon.......
|
Quote:
:thumbsup:............your car will be the blingyst(if there is such a word) on the track |
After replacingthe spring, nut and bolt for a set out from a b4, mine has had 4 packs through it and all is great.
The problem is the spring not being ground square at the ends, which make it slip then tight and causes the movement that it doesn't like, and crushes the steel balls. |
Quote:
Are you still on the standard diff and thrust balls then? Ran mine at Southport Sunday and all was good out on track but the diff does feel a bit rough.. Cheers |
I've got ceramic diff balls for TLR 22 for sale in the sale section on here will have the thrust balls on Tuesday if that helps any of you!!
Buds |
| All times are GMT. The time now is 08:37 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
oOple.com