TRF511 build blog
 

Ive just finished my TRF511 build for this weekends National. I documented it in my blog incase anyone is interested:

http://ne-rc.blogspot.com/2011/04/my...511-build.html

Any comments or tips are welcome.

Looks good, however the 5mm front tower will bend the front bulkhead/tower mount rather than break the tower.

I would also mount the undertray sides on the top of the chassis so you can get the car lower.

Love it and helps those of us still getting together 511 stuff :thumbsup:

Sold my Durango last week, so 511 for me too

Thanks for the comments

I'll have another think about the 5mm front tower....

Re: the undertray, I thought a better body seal would be obtained mounting it underneath the chassis. Again, I'll have a think about mounting it above the chassis.

If I do this, how do I mount the middle of the undertray to the bottom of the chassis?

And will it enable me to lower the car? As the middle of the undertray is still underneath the car, at the same height as the side would be under the car.?

I can recommend either the lowered buggy wing 54134
or the 201 wing set 54211.
Both will last longer then the DF-03 wing.

Also the Tamiya hard hex ball studs 53969 in combination with the Grey reinforced adjusters 54257 seem to work perfectly thus far.

If you take the undertay off you will see a cut line about 1cm from the edge of the undertay. Cut that and mount the side on top of the chassis. If your worried about sealing the car the I would use chassis tape.

I'm racing tonight but will post a pic of my car.

What's the benefit of this apart from mullering a chassis :(

What chassis tape do you use?

I makes the chassis lower to the ground. I don't use any unless it's wet. PDUB sell it.

Ok I'll look at it, but I'm sure the chassis takes a battering. but the undertray equally can't be that thick?

I personally dont really see how this would help in lowering the car much but I have had an issue where the front of the undertray got dislodged from under the bumpermount, bent back and ripped off.
Thus forming a very nasty extruding bit of lexan that digged into the surface on braking/landing.

Currently I managed to cut off the back of the bumper just right so the undertray fits and stays in place.

The underside of the car will get marked but it will not leave any grooves. I will take a pic of both the underside of the car as well.

Very nice blog indeed, only one thing I would say.....yellow wheels are gay:p

Chris, what diff covers are they, Nuclear ones?

Not as Gay as the pink ones. but I agree with your statement Dave.

:lol: I'm not going to deny that, I'll dig my white ones out.

I will be using the TRF201 wing set.

I dont think I will do the undertray mod you suggest Matty, Im not sure the benefit is worth it??? I'll have a look at your pics when you get them on.

JAAD Racing ones, from www.rcracinguk.com

I got a few other things from there ... including the preassembled ceramic thrust races, which are very nice.

hi chris are you running any weight in the car if so were?
and have you cut the rear springs down?

Pink wheels rock :woot: Esp. with pink wheel nuts B)

I've not cut the springs down.

I run the rudebits brass lipo tray with one centre weight.

Hi Chris,

yes, and yes. Rear springs are cut (one coil off).

Weight is:
Rudebits lipo brass kit: running 2 x 18g centre weights and the outer weights.

+ 15g on servo for side to side balance (electrics compensation).

how's chris stewart getting on with the 502?
i'v tried both 502 and 511 back to back (all be it indoors only)
but i have got the 502 working very well just don't know which way to go for outdoors.

i'll catch up with you at the weekend.

Ive only been to Worksop racing against him, and he wasnt at his best, so not a fair evaluation of the car..
Jeff Steel is running his 502 and doing really well. Car looks planted, with lots of steering.
See my review of our Worksop meeting on the blog ;)

You know Chris, I was trying to remember where I got my first 511 from??? :woot::D

Rd 6 Nationals last year, Stotfold, from myself. Wish I'd never sold it. Its taken a lot of searching, money, and patience, to get this 511 together, and it still missing the main options I had for that 511...

The Fredrik cover and Lipo slots, thicker shock tower, and 0.5deg additional rear toe in hubs... cant remember who bought those? Either you, Pimlot, Alex Springer or Neil Adamson? They were Yokomo Rayspeed ones, custom machined to fit the Tamiya here at work.

never been to stotford before so could anybody give me a few general setup tips?
sorry chris i don't want to hijack your thread just thought people could share there idea's

Yes I know silly haha.
Since I got that car from you I have gone Tamiya all the way.
In fact I have 6 511's now, yes 6!!! Well you can never have enough eh.
I source alot of my stuff from e bay, Dinball is a good guy at RC mart.

Who are running Ghea pistons with their 511/502s?

Chris ... if you look at my blog, on the build you'll find a link to the setup I'll be using, and the changes to the setup Ill be making for Stotfold.

Take some Schumacher green minispikes.

DC - so am I getting the blame for your 511 habit? Don't blame you, its a great chassis. Ive just got the 2 at the moment ... the built one and one NIB for spares.

Mikey - Im running the 1.3 and 1.4 machined Tamiya pistons. Is it worth trying to profile these into "ghea type" pistons with a hobby knife?

I am. It generally jumps and lands better with them, but I feel no difference in the corners.

[QUOTE=chrispattinson;489079]DC - so am I getting the blame for your 511 habit? Don't blame you, its a great chassis. Ive just got the 2 at the moment ... the built one and one NIB for spares.

QUOTE]


No it's springer that gets the blame eventhough he now gone to Predator:woot:

I have the Ghea pistons but don't really notice that much difference.

Yeah Springer did his old trick of get a 511 and then converted to the darkside and got in self a model plane, i mean predator. To be honest for once he was right and it is an amazing car.

Im trying to think of something to use to keep dust and grit getting to the thrust race. Does anyone run any sort of foam insert in the outdrive to keep the muck out?

Here you are:

http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index...Bushing-10-ROT

I run them in my DB01R and they seem to last forever :thumbsup:

And that doesn't foul, or bind the suspension movement or driveshaft movement at all?

In the DB01R they seem to work without binding. I have recently installed the WO Universal at the front which the TRF511 has as stock and it worked too. Don´t have the rear ones installed yet but i think it will work too. If you find that they are binding you could then just cut off a small piece just for dust and dirt protection.

Thanks :thumbsup:

Very good chris but as usual your over thinking everything.

This is an excellent car as standard out of the box. All you really need is the hard hex ball joints and maybe ceramic or tungsten diff balls.

It'll be interesting to see how it goes with all that extra weight and 501 arms on it. Probably like a 501. Not strictly bad but not like a 511... :thumbsup:

And never mind about yellow wheels being Gay, putting hair gel on yer screws is just wrong.

Oh, and your wiring always makes me chuckle.

It's terrible.

Here you go chris, Just for you.

Click me.

:lol::lol::lol:

Yeah well... over thinking and playing about with the car is half the fun I think..... I'll see how it goes :)

Thanks for the wiring tip .... but what exactly is wrong with it? If you think its going to cause problems, then might let you have a go at correcting it on Saturday.... saying that though, I never normally have electrical failures :thumbsup:

To be fair Schnell...thats the best wiring ive ever seen on Chris P car! Hes right, he hasnt had many failures due to electrical problems, ive even seem him finish a race with a speedo hanging out of the side of the car, must have been the cheapo connectors he had used!!!!
Well done Chris, H Final? You would be gutted, and its not your first national, its your 10th or something:confused: