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- - 2wd 410 (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136649)

I decided to build up my spare 410 as a 2wd.
If you're interested find some words and pics HERE
:)

Looking forward to updates, nice work.

I tried my 410 in 2wd format. Made no difference with or without the front diff in! I had 1000 weight oil in the rear diff,front and rear shocks on one hole from the bottom hole(on the shock towers) and 50g of weight in the front gear box housing. Cut staggers up front,spikes were awful(including the 2wd tyres). Seemed to go nicely at TORCH with this setup.

Is it possible to turn the motor around so it is in the rear of the car and then use a shorty lipo down the opposite side?

Quote:

Originally Posted by maineyak (Post 805649)

Is it possible to turn the motor around so it is in the rear of the car and then use a shorty lipo down the opposite side?

Interesting. I may have to try this. I'm building a 410Rv3 just to play around in the dirt at a local track. Most of the 1/10 cars that race there are 2WD. I'll share pics if I do this.

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Update:

I ran into a snag in the concept. There is super simple way that comes to mind for clipping the battery in since the plastic part of the slipper/motor mount has the thru-put for the battery strap pin. With the slipper/motor mount turned 180 degrees, there's nothing to secure the front of the strap to. I'll look into other means.

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Update 2:

Not gonna happen. It's possible, but it would require way too many modifications to be worth it. I wanted to do it in a way to make it simple to make a proper (somewhat proper) 2WD car by simply turning the slipper mount around and removing the front drive components, then replacing installing axles. The problem are, but not limited to, the side rails needing fairly significant amount of plastic removed to make room for the battery and motor. This includes removal of the tab that people tend to mount the transponder or switch to. A couple new mounting holes required for the side rails. A way to hold the battery down will need to be invented. A hole required to install the aluminum part of the mount will intersect an existing hole. Technically, the slipper mount could be mounted a bit more aft to avoid this. The rear brace would have to be modified to make room for the battery, which would weaken it. The motor would be directly against the motor..... It's all just a bit much for my taste.

Sounds exactly the kind of challenge I would like :) Basically you need a wider ally chassis as per the V4 at the worlds...

However after a bit of a rethink.....Is there any point changing to the configuration I've suggested - which is basically moving the weight back to gain more rear traction? I already own a 210 which has loads of rear traction.

Isn't the point of a 2WD converted 4WD car to create a car suited to high traction conditions which basically means you don't need as much rear traction anyway? Might be best to leave it as is - at least to start with anyway.

Quote:

Originally Posted by maineyak (Post 806159)

Isn't the point of a 2WD converted 4WD car to create a car suited to high traction conditions which basically means you don't need as much rear traction anyway? Might be best to leave it as is - at least to start with anyway.

I would say so, but for my purposes, it would be to race both classes at my local track without having two cars. It's not very high bite there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by maineyak (Post 805649)

Is it possible to turn the motor around so it is in the rear of the car and then use a shorty lipo down the opposite side?

Have a look at the Motogo Seiki DMX410 conversion, that's pretty much what you have described. Looks ace but has a high price tag.

This is my version,still in the infancy stage hopefully get a test of it the weekend
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9c192c81.jpg
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3c0b397c.jpg

Looks good spindles. Be interesting to see how it goes.

Is that a home made chassis?

That looks wicked spindles.
I assume you made the chassis yourself?

Quote:

Originally Posted by maineyak (Post 807529)

Looks good spindles. Be interesting to see how it goes.

Is that a home made chassis?

Yes mate,made out of 3mm ally.
All i wanted to do was to see if it handles well.
Its only an experiment.
If all goes well then will make it better.
Had a look tonight and not enough room for motor to fit,so all i will do on the version 2 is to make it 2mm longer,for now i had to cut the mounting lug off motor side and put a brace down the center front to stop the chassis flexing.
Should finish it tomorrow evening ready for a play sunday hopefully?
will keep you all informed how it went.

I'd like to make a slightly wider 410 chassis for my 2WD so I can turn the motor around and run a shortie on the opposite side.

Do you work in a machine shop? How did you bend the kick up? What grade ally is it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by maineyak (Post 807546)

I am going to run shortie lipo in place of the saddle pack.But you can do what ever chassis layout you want.

My garage is my machine shop.All i did with the kick up was use the original chassis of the 210 and 410 put the new chassis square in the vice and bend gradually until it matches.
Ally grade is not known,just brought from a local fabricators.

All i am doing is experimenting at the moment. If all goes well then i will get the chassis made out of higher grade ally or c/f.

I guess you can get the lipo out without needing to remove the slipper now too :)

Are those front tyres old Schumacher rib spikes by any chance?

Why is the rear track of a 410 so narrow?

Quote:

Originally Posted by maineyak (Post 808036)

I guess you can get the lipo out without needing to remove the slipper now too :)

Are those front tyres old Schumacher rib spikes by any chance?

Why is the rear track of a 410 so narrow?

Hello mate,
Still have to remove the slipper due to the battery retaining posts.

The tyres are yokomo vintage.

The rear looks narrower because of the way the pic was taken.