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-   -   Mod for inside wheel wobbly and swaybar (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112393)

OneKiwi 12-10-2012 02:53 PM

Mod for inside wheel wobbly and swaybar
 
This is what I done today. I will test it tomorrow see if it holds and helps

I haven't really noticed the inside wheel wobbly until I raced on a track with a long sweeper, then I could see it flap around then.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...012_152221.jpg

And I had time so I tried the rear sway bar, I had this in the garage so Im not sure what its from.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...012_152123.jpg

jo90 15-10-2012 06:37 AM

The noly thing I would say is that you need the collets that go over the sway bar that will stop it shifting left and right. These are held by a small grub screw (im sure you will know the one's i meen).

:)

discostu 15-10-2012 06:52 AM

If your getting wheel chatter either your end points are not set right or your servo isn't strong enough to hold the wheels when going around the sweepers

As fit the roll bar you will need to stop that sliding left to right as John said.

Stu

OneKiwi 15-10-2012 07:29 AM

Noticed I had to have the L+R stops however I have taken it off for the moment.

Wheel wobbly is only the inside wheel at full lock there is a little wobbly there, try it I'm sure you'll see the same thing

ekt 15-10-2012 10:13 AM

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...-34-15_135.mp4 would be what he is aiming to fix in the front steering.

maky 15-10-2012 04:19 PM

Caster blocks now have extra material on them to stop the hub going to far . Failing that glue a 2mm washer to the hub or caster block does the same job

OneKiwi 15-10-2012 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ekt (Post 704007)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...-34-15_135.mp4 would be what he is aiming to fix in the front steering.

Yep thats right , nice with the extra material, but wouldn't the glued spacer risk falling off, well if you use a plastic one the tire glue would work well.

maky 15-10-2012 08:11 PM

My washers are plastic. Been on there since march and havnt fallen off yet

AmiSMB 15-10-2012 08:55 PM

I find if you have a carbon ackerman plate ( I use the AC one ) then having the steering arms in the furthest hole forward then you can get the steering to turn and hold with minimal amount of flap. Here is a picture of Jorn's car where he has mounted the steering arms very far forward and further towards the chassis of the car to get the steering to work better.

discostu 15-10-2012 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OneKiwi (Post 703965)
Noticed I had to have the L+R stops however I have taken it off for the moment.

Wheel wobbly is only the inside wheel at full lock there is a little wobbly there, try it I'm sure you'll see the same thing

mine doesnt do that when im on full lock my inside wheel is tight with the caster block to the point if i increase my EPA more the wishbone starts to pull back

like i said you must have your end points set not quite right.

jo90 16-10-2012 06:41 AM

In fairness gluing a plastic spacer to the caster block would be better than a drill hole and screw in the actual steering block. The screw makes a weak point where as the glued on spacer should stay put if glued right (not trying to make you suck eggs but scuff the face of the spacer and the caster block and use a thick setting superglue...it wont ever come off)

I checked mine last night, mine also pulls up to the caster block and i have had to back out of some end point to stop the servo straining when doing this. I would check your end points mate or your overall steering balance.


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